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Saggy swap under way!

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by w3srl, Jul 23, 2005.

  1. Aug 2, 2005
    Mark W.

    Mark W. Banned

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    Jun 25, 2005
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    Isn't the angle wrong when you use the stock double end? I have one from a commando that had the saginaw type steering and it is angled oppisite of my stock Ross one.
     
  2. Aug 2, 2005
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    Chuck P. (OldJeep) said the same thing. It turns out that if you are only doing the tie-rod swap and keeping the Ross box / bellcrank setup you will need the Commando joint. To do the total Saginaw swap, the stock ends work, or at least they did on mine. If you use a really short pitman arm and mount the box back further on the frame, you might have binding issues. My tire rod and pitman arm are almost perfectly parallel and the front of the box is almost touching the back edge of the stock bumper.
     
  3. Aug 3, 2005
    Mark W.

    Mark W. Banned

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    The advance adapters kit for the Saginaw steering swap uses the Commando type double end. I haven't put mine together yet but I did buy all the parts from a Jeep parts dealer here in POrtland and he told me that I would need to use the Commando part (which he sold me. Comparing it to the stock one it points the short rod to the rear when in position while the stock one points forward.

    If you use the stock Ross style double tierod end reversed if you line up the two tierods properly it causes the short rod (the one that goes to the pitman arm) to cross over the long rod.

    With the Commando/Jeepster (which uses a Saginaw type steering) the short rod is angled out away from the long rod and would be in alingment when used.

    I guess I'm confused how the stock piece could be used without causing binding or at the very least have to be racked completely to one side of it's available movement to work.
     
  4. Aug 3, 2005
    linckeil

    linckeil Member

    Danbury CT
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    Aug 19, 2004
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    I am using the same setup as w3srl with the manual box, jeepster mount, and postal column. Only difference is I am using a double hole closed knuckle on the passenger side. CJs never came with these 2 hole closed knuckles, but 2 hole closed knuckles were availible on pre '71 wagoneers, trucks, and I think jeepsters too. This will prevent any binding issues and gives you additional steering leverage as it puts the drag link out furthur on the knuckle. I'll be using the tie rod and drag link from a 72-75 cj. these jeeps had a double hole knuckle, but it is an OPEN knuckle design and will not work with the CLOSED knuckle design of the dana 25/27. From what I can tell, the tie rod/drag link may need to be cut down and rethreaded to work on a pre 72 cj with the 2 hole knuckle. heres a pic of the 2 hole knuckle.

    http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=471

    do a search for "double hole knuckle", theres a lot of good info out there on it. i think its the best way to go when making the saginaw steering upgrade and retaining the stock dana 25/27 on a pre 72 cj.
     
  5. Aug 3, 2005
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    I think the difference is in where you mount the steering box, and how long the pitman arm is that you are using. My drag link does NOT cross over the tie rod, and it doesn't bind.

    There's no doubt that the double-holed D27 knuckle is the way to go, as it is a much stronger setup. Having separate attachment points divides the stress from the pitman arm to the knuckle rather than putting it all on the tie rod. I probably would have gone the double-holed knuckle route, if I could have found one that wouldn't cost me an arm a leg and options on several other appendages.
     
  6. Aug 3, 2005
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Just one nit to pick - you want a pre-71 Wagoneer knuckle. Trucks (except for the lightest and earliest pre-65 GVWRs) used the 44. Not sure about the Jeepster Commando. You should be able to find one - the Wagoneer 27 is a real cigar butt.
     
  7. Aug 3, 2005
    jd7

    jd7 Sponsor

    Nacogdoches,Texas
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    Mar 30, 2004
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    My CJ is like Steve's did it over 15 years ago, has worked fine. I guess I didn't know any better at the time, have done two more same way since. I guess ignorance is bliss.
     
  8. Aug 3, 2005
    linckeil

    linckeil Member

    Danbury CT
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    Aug 19, 2004
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    I got mine for 25 bucks. When Herm gets some in stock, he sells them for $35 last I checked. He may have some in stock now.


    And Tim, from what I understand, the double hole knuckle from ANY closed knuckle front axle from ANY jeep vehicle will work. Whether is be a closed knuckle dana 25, 27, 30, or 44. The double hole closed knuckles were all the same regardless of what dana model axle it came from (as long as its off a jeep). I'm not 100 percent sure on this last point, but I'm pretty sure its a correct statement. Anyone know for sure?
     
  9. Aug 3, 2005
    Mark W.

    Mark W. Banned

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    Ok never mind I guess using the origional part reversed works you guys say it does. I already bought the part that Advance adapters says works and the local Jeep parts dealers suggested. So mine will work as well. Actually mine will work exactly like a 68-71 Jeepster Commando steering does since that is what it will be misus the Commando mount. And I'm using a Chevy Camaro Manual box with the same casting number as Advance adapters recomended.

    I just wondered how you guys got around the binding issue.
     
  10. Aug 4, 2005
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    Sep 20, 2002
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    I did the 1-pc tie rod conversion on Dutch (keeping the Ross box), and ditto what Steve said. All I bought from $AA$ was the long "Commando" tie rod. All tie rod ends were standard CJ items. The drag link connected to the back of the "double hole" TRE, with no binding.
     
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