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Replacing Rear Seal Ugh

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Johns1967CJ5, Sep 21, 2018.

  1. Sep 21, 2018
    Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    Northern NJ
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    Well I bit the bullet and decided to spend the weekend changing this leaky oil seal I got as far as the rear bearing cap and I can't get it out any suggestions

    [​IMG]
     
    montanacj likes this.
  2. Sep 21, 2018
    Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    Northern NJ
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    Okay I used two 18in 3/8 Steel Rod pieces stuck them in the bolt holes wiggled it back and forth she popped off I screwed a three inch screw into one side of the seal only screwed it in a little bit though pulled on it with a pair of pliers and rotated to cam and I practically fell right out more to follow

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Sep 21, 2018
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    USA
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    That rope seal is a PITA. It creates a lot of friction and will eventually seal up.... someday... they say...
     
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  4. Sep 21, 2018
    Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    Northern NJ
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    I went with neoprene this time
     
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  5. Sep 21, 2018
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

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    yeah it took a couple thousand miles for the boys...
     
  6. Sep 22, 2018
    71CJ54WD

    71CJ54WD Sponsor

    DC
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    Does the neoprene setup drop in the same groove as the rope seal?
     
  7. Sep 22, 2018
    Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    Northern NJ
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    Yes direct replacement
     
  8. Sep 22, 2018
    Bowbender

    Bowbender I'm workin' on it!

    Northern Minn.
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    Was it difficult to install?
     
  9. Sep 22, 2018
    Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    Northern NJ
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    Actually no. I thought it would be
     
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  10. Sep 22, 2018
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

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    The neoprene replacement seal is difficult, if not impossible, to get set in the block. The only way I have been able to install is by loosening all the main bearing saddles and allowing the crank to drop slightly. Of couse, the front can't drop because it is through the timing cover, so the crank endes up a little skewed. It also helps to completely remove #3 cap with the thrust bearing.
    This whole endeavor is a less than desirable situation, but it can be done. Remember to also offset the parting line of the seal with the bearing cap. I usually use the neoprene seal as the engine is being built on a stand as the crankshaft is installed.
    The rope seals can be pulled around the rear main groove much more easily, but they have a lot of drag and take a while to bed in to actually seal.
    -Donny
     
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  11. Sep 22, 2018
    Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    Northern NJ
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    I oiled it up good . Was right but pushing in while turning crank did the trick. And yes I offset the ends
     
  12. Sep 22, 2018
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
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    I tried putting a neoprene seal on my fhead today. Got about 2/3 the way around...
     
  13. Sep 22, 2018
    Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

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    Very lightly push with a pair of pliers while someone turns the crank mine went right in
     
  14. Sep 22, 2018
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

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    I tried turning too:banghead:
    I'll give it another shot monday morning.
    Tempted to get it as far as i can and try slipping the other half in on the other side.
     
  15. Sep 22, 2018
    Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

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    Well you should offset the ends about 3/8" anyway. Squirt some oil into the other end. I had to push mine with pliers, just don't squeeze to hard and grab the seal 1/4" from the block, just enough to push a little at a time
     
  16. Mar 25, 2019
    Bill67cj5

    Bill67cj5 Member

    Franklin, TN
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    besides removing the rear bearing cap did you have to loosen the rest of the crank bearing bolts? the Kaiser willys parts site says yes, but none of the you tube videos (other engines) show having to do that.
     
  17. Mar 25, 2019
    Bill67cj5

    Bill67cj5 Member

    Franklin, TN
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    what are the 2 dowel pins that come with the seal kit (2 halves) used for?
     
  18. Mar 25, 2019
    65seejayfive

    65seejayfive Blazin’ new trails

    Pennsylvania
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    Goes up in these two holes
    [​IMG] Someone else will know the correct terminology but those are the dowels that should hang down below the block a bit and be sandwiched up by the oil pan once it’s tightened up
     
  19. Mar 25, 2019
    65seejayfive

    65seejayfive Blazin’ new trails

    Pennsylvania
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    I didn’t have to, just the rear. I was honestly nervous about this but mine slid right into place with an extra set of hands turning the crank by hand to help pull the new neoprene seal around while I slid it in.

    This is the seal I used:
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/112320472680
     
  20. Mar 25, 2019
    Greevesman

    Greevesman Member

    Napa, Ca
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    The seal from Midwest Military is the one to use. He says don't clock the ends. Let them stick up the same on both ends. Don't cut the dowels. One set I got had dowels that were too big
    There is so much on this on the forums. Read this.

    Engine Overhaul,Rear Main Seal and Crankshaft
     
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