Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by BadGoat, Feb 1, 2019.
About as much room as my V-6. Any thought on what your going to do about cooling?
Hi Scott. I shaved the built in shrouding off the stock grill and used all Corvette accessories on the engine as they mount the closest to the block. I only have 5-6 inches between the grill and the pullies/belt. I also cut off the back bump from the headlight buckets and mounted up a set of very thin mount LED headlights. They are made in China so I don't know how the quality will be, but they don't protrude into the engine bay at all. I have an aluminum radiator with a pusher fan that will fit in the space I have. I do need to order a rotating thermostat cover with a 90 degree bend and get creative with the lower radiator hose routing. I'll probably trim an inch off the upper water pump barb. I have found a cobra head type intake 90 degree bend that will attach to the 4 inch throttle body without needing to extend to far forward. Other problems to be solved include relocating the power steering reservoir as it was the forward most element of the engine and determining where to mount a coolant recovery tank. I do have a 1" body lift, but the radiator pressure cap is very close to the structural cross member under the leading edge of the hood. Lots of little problems to solve, but all of the them seem doable. My only real regret is that I didn't have time to do a complete build before sending the body to paint. I'm having to drill holes into the already painted body and frame, then touch up around the bare metal.
I've been working on getting the wiring all finished up and am almost there. Tying together a Ron Francis wiring kit, custom Speedhut gauges, a FiTech LS harness and ECU, a Signal Stat 900 turn signal controller, a Novak in tank fuel pump, and non standard LED lighting with reverse lights took a little thought. I want it neat so I'm wrapping everything in split braided loom and securing it to the body with appropriate sized clamps. It's taken a lot longer then I thought it would, but I'm liking the results so far.
Here's an in progress picture of the dash.
I had a request from another group to show how the exhaust was routed with inside the frame headers and true duals. In hindsight, I'd skip the true duals and y the exhausts together to allow for a larger muffler. I also am not crazy about how the exhaust builder transitioned the exhaust from inside the frame to outside to go around the fuel tank. I may end up redoing this part as the exhaust crosses under the frame right where I'd like to mount the bump stops for the rear axle. Anyway, it does look good, and I'm sure it'll sound great once I can actually fire the motor up.
Advance Adapter inside frame headers for LS Swaps.
Running the exhaust pipes around the transmission and t-case. The passenger side pipe crosses over under the transmission. The trans cross member is bolted to the AA trans-t case adapter using their rubber mount.
Bring both pipes together to allow installation of short mufflers. My rear axle is an offset Dana 44, so there is space on the left side of the driveshaft, but not the right.
Cross back over under the frame rails and turn down exhaust tips.
Fwiw my duals run where the bump stops lived after a few wheeling trips the pipes self clearanced themselves
Separate names with a comma.