Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by BadGoat, Feb 1, 2019.
About as much room as my V-6. Any thought on what your going to do about cooling?
Hi Scott. I shaved the built in shrouding off the stock grill and used all Corvette accessories on the engine as they mount the closest to the block. I only have 5-6 inches between the grill and the pullies/belt. I also cut off the back bump from the headlight buckets and mounted up a set of very thin mount LED headlights. They are made in China so I don't know how the quality will be, but they don't protrude into the engine bay at all. I have an aluminum radiator with a pusher fan that will fit in the space I have. I do need to order a rotating thermostat cover with a 90 degree bend and get creative with the lower radiator hose routing. I'll probably trim an inch off the upper water pump barb. I have found a cobra head type intake 90 degree bend that will attach to the 4 inch throttle body without needing to extend to far forward. Other problems to be solved include relocating the power steering reservoir as it was the forward most element of the engine and determining where to mount a coolant recovery tank. I do have a 1" body lift, but the radiator pressure cap is very close to the structural cross member under the leading edge of the hood. Lots of little problems to solve, but all of the them seem doable. My only real regret is that I didn't have time to do a complete build before sending the body to paint. I'm having to drill holes into the already painted body and frame, then touch up around the bare metal.
I've been working on getting the wiring all finished up and am almost there. Tying together a Ron Francis wiring kit, custom Speedhut gauges, a FiTech LS harness and ECU, a Signal Stat 900 turn signal controller, a Novak in tank fuel pump, and non standard LED lighting with reverse lights took a little thought. I want it neat so I'm wrapping everything in split braided loom and securing it to the body with appropriate sized clamps. It's taken a lot longer then I thought it would, but I'm liking the results so far.
Here's an in progress picture of the dash.
I had a request from another group to show how the exhaust was routed with inside the frame headers and true duals. In hindsight, I'd skip the true duals and y the exhausts together to allow for a larger muffler. I also am not crazy about how the exhaust builder transitioned the exhaust from inside the frame to outside to go around the fuel tank. I may end up redoing this part as the exhaust crosses under the frame right where I'd like to mount the bump stops for the rear axle. Anyway, it does look good, and I'm sure it'll sound great once I can actually fire the motor up.
Advance Adapter inside frame headers for LS Swaps.
Running the exhaust pipes around the transmission and t-case. The passenger side pipe crosses over under the transmission. The trans cross member is bolted to the AA trans-t case adapter using their rubber mount.
Bring both pipes together to allow installation of short mufflers. My rear axle is an offset Dana 44, so there is space on the left side of the driveshaft, but not the right.
Cross back over under the frame rails and turn down exhaust tips.
Fwiw my duals run where the bump stops lived after a few wheeling trips the pipes self clearanced themselves
I've finally managed to make some decent progress on my Old Goat. The cooling system is in, the wiring is done, the brakes and clutch lines are in and bled, the interior is complete. I just need to finish the steering shaft carrier bearing install, then it'll be ready for a test drive. Here's a couple more pictures as well.
Engine Bay with radiator.
Nice choice on the Tach. It looks like it came from the factory that way.
Does the shifter clear your leg? That’s quite a bend.
Yes, but not by much. The bend is the way the shifter came out of whatever Chevy truck it was in. You can buy straight SM465 shifters and bend them to fit if necessary.
I heated and bent my SM465 shifter over to the right to get more leg clearance.
This isn't the best picture, but it does have the same bends as yours.
somewhere is a trans am looking for that column....
This is such a great looking build, thanks for sharing the update!
$20 with key.
I had mentioned that there wasn't much space between the radiator and the grill. Here are a few pictures showing where I shaved the stock grill shroud and the rear of the head light buckets.
Even with the buckets shaved, the stock H4 type headlights stuck out too far with the bulbs installed. I found a set of ultra thin LED headlights. They are only about 1.5 inches thick from front to back.
I used a steering conversion kit from Advance Adapters and kept the stock column and steering wheel. The kit uses a bushing to locate the steering shaft inside the tube after you cut off the Ross gear box. The steel plate is supposed to be welded to the clamp or to the tube. I ended up not using their plate and used a round clamp on bracket from Borgeson instead.
She's almost ready to go. I need to replace the clutch master cylinder as my brand new one was defective. Its stuff like that which really slows down the build when you live on an island. I first thought it was the slave cylinder, so I ordered a new one. That took 2 weeks to get here. I spent a week trying to make that work before admitting that the MC was the issue. Now it is another 2 weeks while I wait for the new one to show up. None of this stuff is available on island, and the earthquakes on Puerto Rico have really slowed down our mail. I also need to fix the wiper arms, reseal the t-case output, and a few other small things. I have a Warn 8274 for it as well, but goal for now is to get it driveable. I've had the winch waiting around for 4 years, so another month or two won't hurt it.
Wow! Very nice!
Here's a new walk around video and you can hear the motor.
Nice project! In many ways, I see your Jeep somewhat analogous to my 3B. You just got to this point a LOT faster. I'm curious what your actual WMS/WMS axle widths are. My front axle ended up 56 5/8's WMS/WMS. How wide are the fender flares?
Before I started collecting parts for my latest engine about 6 years ago, I had a prolonged debate with myself as to whether to stick with the Gen I or go LS. My conclusion at the time was that if it is to remain naturally aspirated and the goal is bottom end torque, the LS offered no real advantage. However, when I finally got to the induction, it was more than apparent that the LS platform had a lot more appropriate off-the-shelf choices available. What I needed was a really high flow version of the original TPI system (that would be configured to run Pro-Flo 4). But those systems just don't exist-even in the aftermarket. I think TPIS had the best one but even that setup was 35 cfm less than my potential head flow at 0.55 lift.
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