Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Fireball, Jul 4, 2020.
For me, it's usually blue painter's tape and a paper towel.
Some assembly today.
Front left corner together. I'm putting the old hubs back on so it'll be driveable until I rebuild a set from another member.
Front right spindle seal area is not great, but after polishing with 400 grit, I think it will seall well enough. There wasn't a lot of signs of leakage from before:
Left front side all together except the brake hose. Supposedly one will show up on Tuesday.
The backing plates on the wrong sides in the back was bugging me so I pulled my newly completed brakes back apart and removed the backing plates to switch sides. Someone previous owner wasn't paying attention or the Jeep line worker had too many beers at lunch that day. While I had the axle retainers loose to swap the backing plates, I repacked the rear wheel bearings. Both looked good.
Now the adjuster holes lines up with the star wheels! ...after hour and a half of work.
At least I can manually adjust all the brakes if I need to.
After all the corners were together, I started pulling apart the clutch linkage to rebuild it.
When I pulled the frame side pivot out, it looked like this:
Worried that I couldn't get a replacement in time, I decided to fix it.
Cleaned up and ready for tacking:
Some clean up with the angle grinder and the die grinder:
Painted and done! I'm amazing!
And then 3 minutes later, I pulled out the clutch linkage repair parts I ordered 2+months ago and found this:
I think I'm going to use the one I fixed anyway.
I had the clutch cross-bar all cleaned up and ready to put in when I decided to pull out the pedal to cross-bar rod to clean it up. Here's what I found. Both end with severe wear and cracks halfway through the bend:
I ordered a new one, I'm worried it won't show up before we leave for Colorado and I also need to get the Jeep running so I can iron other things out. I decided to fix this one.
Doesn't look much better after wire brushing:
Cracks ground out as much as I dare and ends bent back to 90 degrees:
Both ends welded up:. I added and extra bead on the outside of the bend for strength:
Almost done filing:
I actually feel pretty good about the repair. The welds are fairly hard, so they should wear OK and the the bends are much thicker now than they used to be.
Clutch All back together with new felts, seals, pivot balls and lots of lubrication. I ended up using the frame side pivot mount I fixed yesterday. The hole spacing was wrong on the Kaiser Willys replacement and I didn't feel llike fixing it.
Sitting in the seat and pushing the clutch feels sooooooo much better now.
The last brake hose showed up, so all the corners are done. I went to install the master cylinder, got it in place, and the bolts don't fit through the holes. Some Chinese factory saving money by using worn out drill bits. Snaked it back out and reamed out the holes with a 7/16" drill:
Master cylinder installed! Tomorrow is bleeding and maybe going for a drive if things look good.
...and the clutch rod is back-ordered at Kaiser Willys. I'm glad I fixed the old one.
How are your ground straps? From here, that looks like power for the starter is arcing through your linkage.
Interesting point. I did put in new ground straps about a month ago, so maybe that problem will be solved. There weren't any straps from the engine to the body or the chassis prior to that.
The battery was grounded to the motor, so it couldn't have been the starter, but it could have been the rest of the electrical draw.
After my 2 week "brake job", it lives!
The test engineers are ready for the test drive:
And the verdict is...... The brakes are great, the clutch is fantastic, and it tracks in a straight line! Three successes!
This is how many tools this "simple" job took, not including the welder, jack, or jack stands:
That should be all the tasks that would disable the Jeep before the Colorado trip.
This is the remaining punch list in no particular order
Change carb jets/timing for altitude
Check all the lights to make sure they're still working
Fix low range detent
Re-torque all the suspension bolts
Adjust parking brake and douse with brake clean
Adjust clutch so it engages a little lower
Install temp 12v cigarette lighter plug to charge cell phone
Maybe figure out a quick cupholder
Check tire pressures
Weld cracked mirror mount bar before it breaks off
Fix broken seat spring or at least swap seats side to side
Install rear mat
Mount dog harness hook to roll bar
Remove the hard top and install the bikini top
Maybe wash the poor thing
Pull flat towing wiring and taillights time permitting
....and fix the parking brakes on the F-250.
You did well with only that little pile. I wasnt aware you could fix anything on a jeep without the entire tool box piled up around you.
Had to do some house stuff and put tools away, so only a little time on the Jeep. Two punch list items take care of:
1) Lights. Tested the lights and everything worked except the brake lights. Crawled underneath and had 12V to the pressure switch. Jumpered the switch and still no lights but a slight spark when jumpering. Pulled the turn signal switch apart and two of the contacts were really dirty. A little Scotch-brite action and we have brake lights! Lights done.
2) Low range detent: The jeep pops out of low range when engine braking down steep hills. It takes no effort to hold the shifter in place, it just pops out if you don't. Researching the symptoms on this site indicates the detent sping has gone weak. Thankfully it can be accessed externally.
Crawled under the Jeep again. (Boy are my knees getting sore from two weeks of this) Pulled out the detent spring and compared it to the one in my spare transfer case. The spring from the Jeep is on the right:
I'd say it's lost a little of it's oomph. Put the spare spring in the Jeep and the shifter feels like it might stay in gear now. Detent done!
Not on the punch list: When I was underneath toying with the transfer case, I noticed the new master cylinder was wet. Closer inspection showed the cap was not seated properly because it was interfering with the steering gear. The cap is identical to the old one. It seems like the master cylinder is slightly longer than it should be.
Pulled the lid and ground the corner a little. It overhangs the master cylinder quite a bit, so there was plenty of room for grinding.
Now it clears the gear and seats tight:
Made more good progress on the punch list tonight:
1). Install temp 12v cigarette lighter plug to charge cell phone
Put some plugs on the extra battery terminal wires, ran fused wires through existing hole in the firewall, and zip-tied cigarette lighter plug to the bottom of the dash.
The suction-cup phone mount seems to hang on in the bumpy stuff.
2). Install rear mat
Horse mats fit perfect if you trim the locking nubs off the two edges that have them:
3. Mount dog harness hook to roll bar
Found a 1 3/4" aluminum clamp and an eyelet on Amazon:
All hooked up:
4. An item not on the list
Replaced the rubber bootie on the tire rack to reduce the rattling:
5. Remove the hard top and install the bikini top
Pulled the top off in pieces. Hatch, then sides, the lid with a helper, and then the windshield filler panels.
The top stores nicely when it's disassembled:
Bikini top is on:
Before taking the top off, I took it for another drive for more shakedown, testing the dog harness, and getting gas:
It's running really good. The brakes and clutch are better as expected, but the caster shims have completely transformed the Jeep. It was a white knuckle experience over 40mph in the past. Now it tracks straight as an arrow. Even at 60mph. It's so much more fun and relaxing to drive now. It drives nearly as well as my Saginaw equipped '71.
Looks great! How’s your pinion angle after the shim install? Been wanting to add a set myself.
That's a good question. I'll measure it tonight or tomorrow and let you know. I had the hubs locked while driving around last night and didn't notice any vibration, but I was in 2wd. I don't notice anything in 4wd at slow speed around the yard either. I've not tried 4wd at speed yet.
Not really doing anything on the Jeep today. Did drive up and down the driveway a couple times to test the dog harness with the top off. It's for the big dog who'll be riding with me in Colorado. His little brother has much better judgement and doesn't really need the harness.
It's a 1ft vertical step to get in the back side of the shop (i need to do some grading) and my left hub popped out of engagement. It looks like I didn't tighten the dial screw enough. I have another set up hubs and rebuild kits now, so I'll take care of that tomorrow. One more thing to add to the list.
Went out an measured with the digital level:
Front axle: 3.3 degrees uphill towards the transfer case
Transfer case: 5.4 degrees up to the front of the Jeep
Rear axle: 4.2 degrees uphill to the transfer case
Note: The rear has the aluminum shims that came with the BDS lift. I think they are 2 degrees, but am not sure.
U-joint angle mismatch per driveshaft:
Front: 8.7 degrees
Rear: 1.2 degrees
The front mismatch is pretty high, but it seems worth the compromise if you don't do a lot of high speed driving in 4wd.
I’d highly advise finding some steel ones, if you’re not already on it. I can’t tell you how many aluminum ones I’ve had break in half and squirt out.
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