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Oil Change On ‘63

Discussion in 'Early CJ-5 and CJ-6 Tech' started by Ray Hogan, Aug 8, 2019.

  1. Aug 11, 2019
    PeteL

    PeteL Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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  2. Aug 11, 2019
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    I run the 15W40 Rotella or Delo dino oil, approved for both gasoline and diesel engines. Valvoline racing oil is another option, but I think the diesel oil is fine, esp in our low speed, low stress engines.
     
    65seejayfive and Glenn like this.
  3. Aug 11, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

    Apopka, Fl
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    That has been my understanding also. I've never used any kind of additives, but if someone wants to I certainly understand if they feel it's best.
     
  4. Aug 11, 2019
    Jw60

    Jw60 Recovering Jeepaholic

    Sedalia MO.
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    I would think a lawn mower has about the same oil requirements as the 134. I worry about moisture condensing in the crankcase. These engines are basically open to the atmosphere and marginally better than the old draft tube ventilation. So run it long enough and hot enough to remove the moisture and splash oil on everything. often enough to not have much delay in building oil pressure.
    That said if it is in an attached garage you should be able to last longer than outside with high humidity and overnight temperature swings. if it bleeds down in a few days start it one day sooner.
    I got the diesel rotella oil for my v6 and will see how it takes it's $13 a gal anyway.
     
    Hellion likes this.
  5. Aug 11, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

    Apopka, Fl
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    So what filter did they give you that was wrong?
     
  6. Aug 11, 2019
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Yeah, I changed it. I'm no expert in this area, and thought better of posting what's basically someone else's opinion that I read. There's plenty of material online about this if somebody wants to research it.
     
  7. Aug 11, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

    Apopka, Fl
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    (y) Deleted it.
     
  8. Aug 11, 2019
    Jw60

    Jw60 Recovering Jeepaholic

    Sedalia MO.
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    assuming the 134 has a rope rear main seal is there anything to consider or avoid in the oil?
     
  9. Aug 11, 2019
    Ray Hogan

    Ray Hogan Member

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    A57D045B-B810-4643-B572-73C6085B2FB7.png Thought I was getting this...
     
  10. Aug 11, 2019
    Ray Hogan

    Ray Hogan Member

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    C3F67F8F-FCE9-4A6C-AFCA-5DAA1D4FBEE0.png 67D2CF4E-34A0-44BB-A4F2-B0234005159D.png But got this...
     
  11. Aug 11, 2019
    TonyM

    TonyM Member 2019 Sponsor

    Middle Tennessee
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    Regarding the engine oil...John at Midwest Military has always recommended to me that I use Rotella T1 in my CJ5 and the same when I had my M38 and CJ3A as well. The Fram filter with the cardboard sides will work just fine. It might not be as robust as the one with metal sides but it'll work equally well if you change the filter when you do your oil every year (I don't drive enough to change it/them more frequently). As mentioned earlier, these filters and the filter system as a whole is better than nothing but is not a "oil filter" as we know it in a modern sense. Some of the M38s had a Cuno "filter" which was really a strainer that you rotated periodically to filter the oil.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2019
  12. Aug 11, 2019
    Ray Hogan

    Ray Hogan Member

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    Ok, thanks
     
  13. Aug 11, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

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    Well now, that's interesting regarding the Fram filter. Did they change the design or somehow production screwed up? I wonder.
     
  14. Aug 11, 2019
    Ray Hogan

    Ray Hogan Member

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    Same thoughts I had since the “C3P” designation was the same and several of the online images matched the new “style”. Also, should I consider “flushing” the old engine oil and if so, how is that done? Thanks again!
     
  15. Aug 11, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

    Apopka, Fl
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    I doubt your Jeep ever got used hard enough or ever saw harsh conditions that would cause concern about needing flushed. The only thing you'll need to do besides draining the oil is cleaning the oil filter canister out. Simplest way is to get a suction gun and what can't be sucked out just wipe it out with rags or heavy shop paper towels. Check for sludge in the bottom of the canister...I'll be surprised if there is any.
     
  16. Aug 12, 2019
    gunner

    gunner Member

    Washington state...
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    The best thing you can do for the jeep is to drive it a lot. After putting a Pertornix in my F-head I started driving it much more (only really limited by the often wet weather here on the coast) and the more I drive it the better it seems to run. It seems to be much happier when used at the 2000-3000 mile/yr pace than at 500 mile/yr. YMMV
     
  17. Aug 12, 2019
    Ray Hogan

    Ray Hogan Member

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    Well, if I ever actually retire I think I’ll be able to drive the jeep more. I have a small environmental company, asbestos-related work, and I do everything from project field work, the accounting, emptying the trash, etc. this jeep stuff is all new to me, and I’m in a hurry to learn all I can. For example, is it necessary or a good idea to use “thread sealer” on the oil plug under the jeep after draining the oil for an oil change? I’ve seen mention of teflon tape (not my favorite thing), white plumber’s pipe dope, petmatex #2, a new copper washer, etc, etc. I just would like to get it right the first time and develop good habits, ha, maybe I’m “overthinking” everything? Thanks, everybody’s help has been fantastic! Ray
     
  18. Aug 12, 2019
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    Typically there is a washer that's supposed to seal the plug. With a fill/drain plug, I've never heard of using anu kind of pipe dope or sealant, though different vehicles require different techniques. Most American cars from this era, you just put the plug back. Stripping oil pan drain threads is pretty common, since the usual approach to stopping a leaking plug is to tighten, and this gets overdone. My VW, for example, calls for a new copper washer at every change. Some modern vehicles with plastic drain plugs require a new plug at every change. So it depends. I expect there is a spec in the Jeep TSM for how tight to make the oil pan drain plug in ft-lbs, and that's where any new parts needed would be listed.
     
  19. Aug 12, 2019
    Ray Hogan

    Ray Hogan Member

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    Ok, thanks, but that brings up another thing...torque wrenches. I have a very inexpensive torque wrench that I really wouldn’t trust. Guess I’m going to look into a digital version, but I’m honestly probably not going to get carried away with some of the “high dollar” torque wrenches I’ve seen, maybe only up to $150.
     
  20. Aug 12, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

    Apopka, Fl
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    Walck's 4WD lists a new washer for the drain plug. It doesn't say, but I get the idea it's not copper so I wonder what it's made of. I like the copper ones, they squish out when tightened and last a long time.
     

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