New 2-bbl Weber Carb... HEI available for F-134?

Came home yesterday and found a box from Redline sitting on my front porch, Inside was a shiny, new 150 cfm 2-bbl Weber carb, manual choke and mechanically operated secondary, with mounting adapter, hoses, hardware, etc. just begging to be mounted in place of the miserable Solex that currently sits there on top of the F-134. Of course, I am not going to have any time to do anything with the Jeep until the weekend, so I will have to wait. I will let you all know how it works out, but I won't really know until I get the Jeep on the road. Still awaiting brake lines.

But if the install goes together and it works, I will let you all know and post some pix.

Now, does anyone know of and have a source for some kind of HEI for the F-134, or at least some improvement over stock? I am sure it has been discussed ad nauseum, but I am still learning about Jeeps, so help me out.

Thanks...

 

I have an Omix-Ada electronic distributor but I haven't installed it yet to testify to effect and quality... And Pertronix should have an Ignitor for it and I have had good luck with those in the past.

 

My Omix- Ada distributor quit on me at an intersection and let me stranded - the ignition module was changed twice to no avail. So the F134 is back on point and condenser for now. I have a Pertronix module ready to install in the old distributor when I have the time.

 

Did Pertronix on my 70 Jeepster with the F-134. Have not driven it but love the way it starts compared with the old points.

 

Pertonix on both my L heads and love it.

 

Thanks to all of you. I now have something to go on. While I have you on the line, so to speak, does anyone in here know how much nominal pressure is normally developed by the mechanical fuel pump on the F-134? Weber recommends a pressure of 3 psig for best performance.

 

Seems to be working fine, but I am trying to get away from the old "points" and dwell adjustment thing. I just prefer electronic ignition, if it is available.

By the way, I started putting the new carb on this afternoon. I can see that the inboard nut is going to be a b))))) to get to for tightening. I pulled out the studs in the intake manifold and went with 3/4" long, 3/8-16 bolts to mount the adapter. Works great for the outboard bolt, but I may stick with the stud on the inboard side, as I see no other way to be able to get any kind of fastener in there. I have had to shorten the stud by about 1/4" to eliminate interference, but it still isn't going to be easy when I go to tighten it. I think I still have one of the old offset wrenches for the older GM distributors. That may do the trick. I will let everyone know how this works out. I trial fitted it before I started and it looks really nice on the engine. Rather impressive, in fact. Have a good one, whatever you are up to...

 

I would like to see pictures of the Weber on the F134 engine incl. all adapters.

 

As soon as I get it done, I will post some pix of the carb.

(Later addition) See my avatar in the meantime. You can see it all. I got the carb on and operational, and it appears to be lightyears ahead of the Solex. When I hit it, there is no stutter when the secondaries open up and the engine gains rpms much more quickly than it did with the Solex

 

I like it so much, I made it my avatar for now. Take a look...

 

Does it clear the hood?

It is possible to build your own "electronic" distributor. Look here -



Bill has taken a reluctor from a V8 and ground off every other vane. Then he mounted the reluctor on the distributor shaft and installed a varibla reluctance pickup from a car - looks like this is from a Dodge - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4589544&cc=1090459&jnid=459&jpid=0

Then you use the p[ickup signal to trigger an external ignition module - the Dodge module, or Ford Duraspark or GM HEI or a CD module like the MSD 6A will accept a VR trigger.

Bill has removed the mechanical/vacuum advance from this distributor, for use with TBI spark control, but you could retain the original vacuum and/or mechanical advance. In any case, you need to phase the trigger properly wrt the rotor location.

There are a few more pictures in Bill's thread here http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?115596-EFI-for-the-134
He supplies distributors converted like this for use with his EFI kits, and possibly would build a distributor for you if you asked.

 

Tim,

Pretty cool setup!!! I will check into it.

By the way, I got the carb on and fired it up today. It is so much better than the Solex. The settings don't drift as the engine warms up. The engine has been sitting for several weeks now, but once the system was primed, the engine started right away with no choke. The idle speed adjustment was a little low, so I raised it. Then I adjusted the idle mixture screw for the best setting, and once the engine warmed up I double-checked it. It was still spot on. The Solex I had, had to be changed from when it was cold to when it was warm, and would not run unless the choke was part way on for a long time. Even then, it could not be completely shut down. It made a lot of air noise, too. It seemed like the opening was too small for the air requirements for the engine, and when it was cooler and humidity was higher, condensation would form on the carb from the temp. drop occurring through the openings/venturii. ( I know this is not the way to spell this word, but auto-correct wants to correct it to venture.) By the way, the carb and filter assembly clears the hood height by at least 2 inches. Plenty of room and it gets rid of the oil bath air filter. I don't want to mess with that. I want to get as much air through the engine as possible. More power.

Thanks for your help in giving me the cfm formula. I knew it was fairly simple as I had used it to figure out the proper carb for my '67 GTO. That was one dialed in vehicle!!! I miss it...

Take care and have a good evening. I am going to go hit the pool for an evening swim with the wife. She is having knee replacement surgery next week and wants to maximize her time with me before she is going through rehab. Later...

c.

I like this carb, so far. It will be interesting when I get the Jeep on the road to see what happens

 

Glenn,

Check my avatar. I am having issues trying to post photos at the moment, so I put it in my avatar for the time being. It is an open filter, but in a housing of sorts. Looks nice. Filter is small, but comes off easily for cleaning. The engine is like a totally different animal with this carb. I will see how it performs once I hit the road and the hills and let everyone know. The whole kit cost around $280. I was expecting more, so at this price, I thought it was worth giving it a shot. So far, so good.

 

I will certainly let you and others know, once I hit the road. It looks pretty, if nothing else...

 

Try a set of Crow's Feet.

 

Went through this with my wife and her knee. We found that the therapy sessions did not really do the trick.
What really worked was going the the Y and swimming three times a week. Some thing to consider. She is really happy with the new knee. Gets to do things with the grand-babies that she would not even consider beforehand.

 

I did. Too wide. I did get it done though... Looks good and operates as good as it looks...