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Mission Impossible 1956 Cj5 Basket Case.

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Rodney, Jan 9, 2021.

  1. Aug 1, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2021
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    238
    I got some major work done this last week. I got all the body to frame mounts figured out and rolled the frame back into the shop to finish the welds.
    I stipped it back down and flipped it over to finish boxing the frame and welding everything I couldn't get from the top side.
    I spent some time with lap sanding disks and wire wheels and got it prepped for primer and paint.. Two coats of Rust-Oleum Red Rusty metal primer.
    I went on the Rust-Oleum web site and the recoat directions said that the Top Coat can go on within the first hour, or you have to wait 24 hours. I right away shot three coats of Rust-Oleum Satin Black and left it hanging from the chain hoist.
    Next week is a Family Camping trip with the kids and grand kids, so it will get to hang up and cure for a while. Then It's on to the final assembly.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2021
  2. Aug 26, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    Jan 9, 2021
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    I spent some time doing the final assembly. I got the front Rover track bar mounts cleaned up and painted and installed along with the P/S box.
    I mounted front and rear Land Rover Disco 1 axles with all the original coil spprings, shock and struts.
    Steering linkage went together nice. Track bar and steering linkage are at the same angle. Hopefully no bump steer
    I then pulled the 87 HO 5.0L E7TE Mustang engine down and honed the cylinders, cleaned up the block, Did the valve in the heads and polished out the crank jornals. Everything looks good and the stock forged pistons are still a tight 5 thou skirt clearance. So I ordered Rings, Rod and Main bearing and painted the pieces and got it mocked up till the Parts show up next week.
     
  3. Sep 6, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    Jan 9, 2021
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    I finished the engine assy, and got the block plate, flywheel and Center Force 2 clutch installed. Then set it down on the mounts.
    I bolted the Rug 4 speed and Dana 18 up. I got the engine nice and level in it's mounts and bolted everything down.
    I removed the u-joint yoke from the front Dana 18 output and replaced it with a drum brake drive flange since they are the same bolt pattern and recess as the Land Rover Drive shafts.
    Since the Rover carried it's engine way further forward than the CJ5 I'm using the Rover front drive shaft in the rear and vice versa. The rear drive flange on the parking brake also hooked up to the Rover Drive Shaft with no modification.
    I just Keep Moving Forward, One Day at a Time.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2021
    givemethewillys and AKjeff like this.
  4. Sep 7, 2021
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash Blind and Dirty 2020 Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
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    No one needs a big 8 cylinder engine!!:p But I want one too! :beer:
     
  5. Sep 7, 2021
    Andrew Theros

    Andrew Theros Member

    Los Osos, CA
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2021
    Messages:
    97
    Let’s see if I’ve got this straight. The rover e-brake fits the rear output on the D18 with no mods?
    Is the caliper mechanical or hydraulic, and how does it mount?
     
    Rodney likes this.
  6. Sep 7, 2021
    Andrew Theros

    Andrew Theros Member

    Los Osos, CA
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    Feb 24, 2021
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    97
    Never mind…Went back and re read your previous work with the parking/e-brake disc and caliper.
    Nice work!
     
    Rodney likes this.
  7. Sep 8, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    Rover drive shafts fit the Dana 18 drive flange style yokes with out modification.
     
  8. Sep 21, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    Jan 9, 2021
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    I pulled the Y pipe and the piece over the rear axle out of the Land Rover. It's stainless steel and in good condition. It was designed for a V8 with a passenger side drop transfer case so it worked better than I expected. Like it was made for it. I used a 2 1/4" u-bend I got from Summit Racing in Reno to attach the Y-pipe to the Header down tubes.
    I went to Summit Racing in Reno and bought Epoxy Primer, an exhaust u-bend and a Holley Red Hot Cherry Bomb Glass pack muffler. I needed to fill the aera where the Rover's huge super quiet muffler was, and the Cherry Bomb was cheaper than a straight piece of pipe.
    Getting the tail pipe up and over the axle and around the CJ7 gas tank was the hardest part. But it's in and clears nicely.
    I re-used the Rover rear resonator also since it's small and just in and out like a Turbo muffler. The combination of the two will be interesting to hear.
    I picked up a CJ7 copper brass radiator from Craigslist and dropped it off at the local Radiator Shop. I had them boil it and install a straight 1 3/4" lower fitting to match my 302/5.0 water pump inlet. It fits the CJ7 Grille that a member here provided me. Thanks again Fesser from Napa, Ca.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2021
    73 cj5 and Rich M. like this.
  9. Sep 21, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    Jan 9, 2021
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    The next step was fuel lines and rear electrical. I bought 5/16" brake line and fittings and used single bolt rubber covered (adel) clamps to mount it to the frame with short pieces of Fuel Injection type hose at each end.
    The rear electrical was done with 7 wire 14 gauge trailer wire. I used an 8 screw terminal block at the rear cross member that will be under the rear valance piece I built to cover the back of the gas tank and filler. With 7 wires that gives me everything I need for lights and fuel sender.
    I ran the wire along the passenger side and attached it to the frame and engine with more adel clamps. I left enough extra to mount it to the inner fender or firewall at another terminal block. no splicing. I then attached the Rover rubber brake lines to the frame and bought adapters to go from the Metric M10x1 Bubble Head Flare to US 3/16" standard Inverted flare.
    I ordered a 25' roll of 3/16" brake line with 16 fittings and it should be here tomorrow. Once the brake lines are done, the frame will be ready for the body once primer and paint is done.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2021
    73 cj5 and Rich M. like this.
  10. Sep 21, 2021
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Post Falls, ID
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    FYI, check your permission settings on your pics. They’re not showing up here, and the links in my email alerts go to an error page: “You do not have permission to view media within this album.”
     
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  11. Sep 22, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    I went back to body work today. I started on the CJ7 grille I got from ECJ5 member Fesser in Napa,Ca. It's in pretty good shape. I sand blasted the original green paint off it.
    . The CJ7 front fenders had been stripped on the out side and primered in somethin buff collored that was really tuff. I finished trimming the cutouts to clear the Rover shock towers, then I sand blasted all the seams and blasted the rattle can black off the inner fenders and started sanding with 320 grit on the DA.
    I picked up a CJ7 hood a couple weeks ago that some PO had drilled a half dozen extra holes in for who knows what. So I had patched them last week and now I flipped it over and used a little bondo to clean up my repairs. Tomorrow I'll hit the bondo with 80 grit and then sand the entire hood with 320. Maybe by the weekend I might have a coat or two of Summit Racing DTM Epoxy Primer on everything,
     
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  12. Sep 24, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    I spent a lot more time on prep over the last couple days.
    I finally got every thing ready for Primer. I Used Summit Racing DTM (direct to metal) epoxy primer. I shot the firewall first then the immer fenders and mating surfaces, then mounted the fenders to the tub loosly.
    I was able to get 3 solid coats of primer on the tub, front fenders, dash, grille and hood.
    The label says I can can top coat anytime up to 4 days without sanding, or wet sand or use grey ultra fine scotch bright pads after 3 days. So it looks like Tuesday next week for color.
     
  13. Sep 26, 2021
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2021 Sponsor

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    I would at least scuff the dry primer.the only way i spray over unsanded anything is all at the same time,i.e prime,flash.paint. fresh on fresh gives a chemical bond.after the undercoat has dried to a sandable surface,sand it.
     
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  14. Sep 26, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    That's the plan. Weather might be coming in Tue. so Monday is the day.
     
  15. Sep 27, 2021
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2021 Sponsor

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    clean is the key.
     
  16. Sep 27, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    I was planning on shooting color on the CJ this morning. When I got up it was 48 degrees and a friend of mine across the Central Valley texted me saying that he was getting rain. I've got the tub, hood, grille and fenders under a 2 car car port. So weather is a big thing. No spray booths here.
    I'm shooting Acrylic Urethane
    over epoxy primer, so I spent the morning sanding and scrubbing with grey ulta fine scotch brite pads. The reducer I'm using is for medium temps 70-80 degrees. By 1:00P.M. my thermometer said it was time to start.
    I blew everything off with air ,and tack ragged all the parts. I shot the fire wall first and the mating surfaces of the fender, the back side of the grille and then mounted the fenders loosly and flipped the grille over.
    The Gun Metal grey is a little darker than I would have liked, but it was left over from my Dodge 3500 4x4 build. It does look good with the Satin Black Diamond plate.
    This week starts the final assembly.
     
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  17. Sep 27, 2021
    timsresort

    timsresort Member

    South Lake Tahoe CA
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    Nice work. Like the color. i can relate to dodging weather events for painting.
    Tim
     
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  18. Sep 27, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    Thanks. I think it's gonna look good. Till I mangle the fenders in the rocks.
     
  19. Sep 28, 2021
    givemethewillys

    givemethewillys Been here since sparky ran it. 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    New Kent, VA
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    Hahaha I just posted over in the "what did you do to your jeep" thread that I have a gallon of a very similar color..... when in fact I have the exact same one! My '78 f150 is painted with starfire gunmetal gray. Overall I really like it, although the PO didn't do the best with prep in some areas and it's flaking off in a few isolated places.

    I can't wait to see what it looks like on your Jeep!
     
  20. Sep 28, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    Yes Tim I dodged a bullet with the weather. We got almost an inch of rain overnight. This morning I went up to find water drops on the passenger side fender and one corner of the hood.
    Lukily it wiped right off.
    I then went to town for tires. I had sold the front clip off the $250.00 Land Rover that I had used the axles and springs out of for $650.00.
    I ended up at Americas tires and bought a set of five 265/75R16 All Terrain tires. They measure 31.7" tall. $604.00 out the door mounted and balanced with new valve stems. I had considered going with the MT's, but I had a set on my truck and they were terrible on icy roads, noisy and wore out quick. They are called Trailfinder and supposidly made by Kuhmo?? Time will tell.
    When I got home I drilled and taped 12 holes and mounted my Tail/Brake/turnsignal LED's and the Backup LED lights.
    The fronts are a 4" surface mount LED in two brightness of Amber for marker lights and turn signal. I'm not sure I like the look, or that I'll keep them. Tomorrow I'll mount the headlight buckets, lights, and trim rings and see what I think then.
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2021

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