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Looking For Reno / Norcal Sandblaster Recommendations

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by truckee4x4, Jul 25, 2020.

  1. Aug 1, 2020
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Florida Keys
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    That DPLF epoxy primer is likely comperable as the SPI epoxy primer I suggested. That would serve as a base primer over freshly blasted bare metal. The DP402 catylist sounds like what you would want to use with this product.
    -Donny
     
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  2. Aug 1, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Truckee CA
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    Thanks Donny. I wrote SPI and got some good info from Andy. He said (in case anyone else wants to know pricing)

    It mixes 1 to 1, so a gallon of primer plus a gallon of the activator is $207.80 with free shipping.

    A quart plus a quart of the activator is $82.64. Shipping is free.​
     
  3. Aug 1, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    Spending today doing some crack repair in the floor pans. Interesting to note the wrinkles evident from when these were stamped:
    B6021990-660B-4A51-816C-36CAD24AF25A.jpeg 2B7C5887-92DE-4134-8B6D-ACC7CE51E3C9.jpeg

    These were all painted black from the factory, right?
    6EBCCF6F-EAB9-4A40-9808-477695096A5F.jpeg
     
  4. Aug 1, 2020
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

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    How do SPI's prices compare to PPG with the 402 catylist?
    Your blaster did a nice job it looks like. That bare metal would already be turning brown with rust with my humidity.
    -Donny
     
  5. Aug 1, 2020
    Fireball

    Fireball Active Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    Yep painted a "gloss" black that's really closer to a modern semi-gloss than a gloss.
     
  6. Aug 2, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Truckee CA
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  7. Aug 6, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    Do I want to clean out the bondo from the seams before this gets primed?
    23A5A734-8D37-42D0-BB4E-9BD4F4F7992F.jpeg

    what about the soft top snaps?
     
  8. Aug 6, 2020
    Jeepsterjim

    Jeepsterjim Member

    Lincoln, CA
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    look at KBS products. good stuff.
     
  9. Aug 7, 2020
    bigbendhiker

    bigbendhiker Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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  10. Aug 7, 2020
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

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    I would scratch and pick all the remaining seam sealer out of the joints, and re-seam seal the joints. I typically use the 3M brand seam sealer.
    As far as the snaps, remove them and weld up all the holes. Somehow, every new top has the snaps in a different location than the previous top, as you can see from all your holes. When you get a new top, drill new holes where needed.
    -Donny
     
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  11. Aug 7, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    Some joints are seam sealer (which is flexible and that I can pick out) and some (like in the pic above) are hardened bondo.

    I actually have the top in storage, it was only a year old Bestop when the PO sold me the Jeep! so I guess I need to fill all the other holes around them then.

    @Keys5a I wanted to ask a follow up question just to make sure I completely understand you about procedure. Since Arron blasted this with ground glass, the metal has a rough-ish texture. Since I'm going with the non-sandable DP50LF PPG 2-Part Epoxy primer as a bare-metal sealant, the texture will still be there, right? But that's OK because the next step (after surgery) will be another layer of high-build primer (VPLF?) that's sanded, plus body filler / blocking as needed, and then finally top coat. Do I have this right?
     

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