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Looking For Reno / Norcal Sandblaster Recommendations

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by truckee4x4, Jul 25, 2020.

  1. Jul 25, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Truckee CA
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    I am doing some research on picking a sandblaster within about an hour from me to do my body tub, and wondering if anyone on here has ever had their tub blasted by anyone in Sacramento / Roseville / Reno / Carson that can offer a recommendation?

    I'm finding a range of prices from $130/hour for garnet media blasting at a powder coating shop here in Truckee (that doesn't have much experience doing old car bodies), to $225 at Battle Born Blasting in north Reno who just did a 1970 CJ5 with crushed glass, and estimated 3-4 hours for tub and hood/fenders/floor panels.

    Anyone have any recommendations? Hoping to do some homework and get this done before it snows. My tub is in decent shape in some places and in bad shape in others so I'd like to find someone with some experience so I end up with something I can work with. Thanks.
     
  2. Jul 25, 2020
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

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    Find someone that knows what they're doing. Sandblasting build heat and can warp sheetmetal really bad if you don't know what your doing. Some of the water/sand blasters keep the warpage to nil. A buddy blasted his body years ago, and it was so badly warped he had to find another tub and hood. Soda blasting can remove paint, but not so much with rust. The best is someplace that chemical dips the parts. One process for paint/bondo, the second de-rusts.
    -Donny
     
  3. Jul 25, 2020
    GillaFunk

    GillaFunk New Member

    Bonner’s Ferry,...
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    I just dropped off 2 wheels and some assorted motorcycle parts for sandblasting and powder coating with John at TriFusion, LLC in Carson city. He’s a former LEO and seems like a nice guy. Turn around is 1-2 weeks he said.

    I paid $80 each for wheel sandblasting and powder-coating. However, I don’t think he does large body parts, but he may know someone.

    775.721.5999
     
  4. Jul 26, 2020
    NCRenII

    NCRenII yellow fever

    Far Nor Cal
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    American Stripping in Sac has done car bodies for people I know.
    They have different media for different applications. Sand is rather rough in most situations, I don't like plastic because it sticks n the metal, but walnut, glass and soda all are good for paint surface prep.
     
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  5. Jul 27, 2020
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    Another bit of advice. You can save time and blasting costs by having the tub on a rotisserie when you take it to them. Less handling by them saves time and you money. And it's nice to use when the blasting is all done.
     
    truckee4x4 likes this.
  6. Jul 27, 2020
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member

    exploring the...
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    I vote dipped have seen many autobodys warped to junk with sandblasting.
     
  7. Jul 27, 2020
    Rubicloak

    Rubicloak Member 2020 Sponsor

    Nevada
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    Aaron at Battle Born Blasting.
    He did my body, frame and axles (it was actually my 71 that he just did above in your post). He pays attention and is mindful of heat transfer and warpage
    battlebornblasting
    Aaron 775.772.5413

    Tell him Eric referred you
     
  8. Jul 27, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Truckee CA
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    What about garnet? I'm going to take it down to Reno today and get a couple quotes. I was going to start at Advanced Powder Coating as they seem reasonable and experienced.
     
  9. Jul 27, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    Yeah I've been talking to him via email, I was going to try to meet up with him and have him take a look. Is he worth $75/hour more than Advanced?

    @Rubicloak how bad was your tub? Did you have a lot of rot, rust, and bondo? I've got some areas that are pretty bad like this view of the panel beneath the toolbox (which I'm going to end up replacing). Do you have any pictures before/after?
    IMG_3433.jpg

    @sterlclan I don't think we have any shops that do that in Reno/Sparks. And what about the wood in the "hat" channels? Wouldn't that disintegrate?
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2020
  10. Jul 27, 2020
    Rubicloak

    Rubicloak Member 2020 Sponsor

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    My Jeep had zero rust and zero bondo... If those pics above are yours, then Aaron probably will not be interested in tackling it. :(
     
  11. Jul 27, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Truckee CA
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    That’s literally the worst part, and I know i am going to be replacing the whole floor panel so I’m not too concerned if it blows out. Guess all I can do is try and show it to him and a couple other spots and see what they say.
    76465EA8-C14D-4C22-8865-A5C10EBEA1E1.jpeg 50CCB87F-9790-4159-A96C-86C4243C5453.jpeg
     
  12. Jul 27, 2020
    Rubicloak

    Rubicloak Member 2020 Sponsor

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    Ah got it. I am replacing my floor as well. Not because of rust but because of surface pitting and major dents. Told him to skip the rear floor as it was going to be replaced.
     
  13. Jul 28, 2020
    NCRenII

    NCRenII yellow fever

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    Garnet is a hard glass-like material and works well for steel.
    The thing is when new it has sharp edges that round off after each re-use. New its pretty aggressive.
    Be ready to get some metal cleaner and get the metal clean (test with clean rags) and put on a couple coats of etching primet right away.
    I might also recommend cutting out a bunch of the really rusted out parts to save time and weld in bracing (3/4 or 1" angle iron) to keep the tub in alignment. If you don't it could pretzel on you.
     
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  14. Jul 30, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    I picked everything up from Battle Born Blasting (Arron's) site yesterday. He did my whole body tub (minus skipping some of the obvious area that will be replaced), plus the hood, grille, fenders, tailgate, side steps, and floor pans with a 70/100 mix of crushed glass. Took him less than one day, and everything looks really good to me (as far as his work). He was very careful and contentious of warpage and causing any more damage. As to the amount of work left for me to do next - well that's a different story, but one that I was expecting. Sorry the pics from his phone are sideways, not sure what to do to fix that as they look right when I upload them.

    05E793D7-21F5-4F5B-9782-6DD4900F487F.jpeg DFCB310F-6E92-4F9F-95EA-C9652B28CBE9.jpeg D365DA72-1E14-4836-A0A5-697F08CE8D5E.jpeg 27A93089-651B-43D2-9A53-A3FA02D2A79A.jpeg E0D84A7C-99E1-49B2-A00C-66226E297724.jpeg D94CE034-9234-4F91-B587-3828F0E16325.jpeg
    Looking for advice on next steps to set a solid foundation for eventual painting next summer. I'm going to scrounge in the bone pile and the metal dumpster and see if I can whip up a simple winter storage / rotisserie out of some leftovers based on the directions from other's DIY Rotisserie builds on this site.

    @NCRenII I like your advice about cutting stuff out now and bracing it. Will probably get into that this weekend. (Oh and I contacted American Stripping and they quoted me $2,500 for stripping and priming, 5 months out waiting list behind 200 other vehicles!)

    As for cleaning and prep step one, I've got a gallon of POR15 cleaner degreaser leftover from doing the frame, as well as their metal prep solution. Beyond that I would have to either buy etching primer or epoxy primer and thinner and use my friend's HVLP gun to apply under a carport.

    I have a few questions (having never done this before).
    1. After cleaning, should I apply the etching solution (or something else like Eastwood "after blast?" Or just straight primer?
    2. If I use primer, do I use epoxy primer or etching primer or weldable primer? Any brands to recommend?
    3. Humidity up here is around 20-40% at 6,000ft. How long do I realistically have to get these steps done before I start seeing rust?
    Thanks.
     
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  15. Jul 30, 2020
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

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    Skip the etching primer. The etch is actually an acid in the reducer. I used to use it, but think it caused problems later. A good 2-part epoxy prime is my recommendation. You can even apply body filler over the primer.
    -Donny
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2020
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  16. Jul 30, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    How about this PPG product? Anyone used it before? Description here

    also looking at their DP50LF
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2020
  17. Jul 30, 2020
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    Be sure to brace and square things before you start cutting if possible - then check and re-brace as needed. It will make fitting replacement sections in a WHOLE lot easier.

    And yes - a rotisserie is a great add to this kind of build. I can't believe how long I put off building one - and how much easier its made the current build I'm doing.
     
  18. Jul 30, 2020
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

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    That PPG product you linked is a high-build primer, not what you want at your stage. High-build is a filler that goes on over your bondo/fillers. Thats why they stress "easy sanding". This is the stuff that fills pinholes in filler, slight low areas, and generally helps straighten out bodywork by using a long sanding block. This stuff actually has talc in it to make sanding easier. Talc absorbs moisture and can cause finish issues when the moisture bakes in the sun and tries to escape from under the paint.
    You need to look into 2-part epoxies that seal and bond to bare metal, before any bodywork. Adhesion is a primary concern on fresh metal. I suggest SPI (Southern Polyurethane) as they have an outstanding product at a very reasonable price for what it is. At least take a look at it, or an equal product.
    -Donny
     
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  19. Jul 30, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    Thanks for the info. I called the PPG rep at Martin Auto Color in Sparks to inquire if they can still code 1966 Presidential Red (they can, but at $243/gallon single stage). I asked what product he would recommend at my bare-metal stage to prep/seal for metal work and eventual painting next summer, and he said DP50LF primer. Here's the data sheet - what do you think about this product Donny? I will also look at the one you suggested.

    I also spoke to the local body shop today and they said that they would spray on 2-3 coats of any epoxy primer I bring them for 2-3 hours at $80/hour if I supplied the materials. Seems reasonable over doing it in a carport in my side yard.

    Edit: wanted to add a question - does mixing brands between top coat and base coats matter in auto painting?
     
  20. Aug 1, 2020
    GillaFunk

    GillaFunk New Member

    Bonner’s Ferry,...
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    Damn.....thread is getting extremely informative
     

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