Hyd. clutch ???

Hi all. I am useing mid 80's jeep hyd slave and master components to convert the clutch from linkage. My question is when setting my linkage length to the shift fork do I retract the piston in the clutch slave all the way or 3/4 of the way. I have fabbed the brackets and bought the longer shift fork from novak. Its going on a 225/sm420 with novak adapter.
Thanks

 

I don,t know anything about aftermarket parts, but it is most important to have the slave cylinder push on the clutch fork at a point where it has enough travel to disengage the clutch. As far as retracting the cylinder, the factory only uses the clutch pressure plate to push the cylinder back and wherever it rest, it rest. I disagree with that because it will allow the throwout bearing to set too close to the clutch pressure plate fingers and often spin unnecessarily, therefore I added an additional return spring and stopping bolt to control the rest position of the throwout arm. You do not want to pull the arm out very far though, or the slave cylinder will have to travel too much to disengage the clutch.

 

When I set up mine I had the piston fully compressed, and mounted it so that there would be no pressure on the throw out fork. That way there is little chance that the TO bearing will be riding on the pressure plate. Then you have to check to make sure you have enough travel to fully disingage the clutch. I used an old 60's Chevy truck slave cylinderfor mine.

 

Is your slave cylinder a pusher or a puller? My slave cyl. with a 225 and an SM420 is a puller. There was no room for a pusher. I set my cylinder at fully extended and the throwout arm pushed fully forward so the throwout bearing was not touching the clutch fingers. Its worked fine for several years. By the way, I got the pull type slave cylinder at Summit.

 

I am in the process of doing the same with a puller type slave. I found mine at Speedway motors for almost half the price of Summit. Thanks to Steve w3srl directing me to Speedway.

 

Mine is a pusher. I have it mounted to a homemade bracket bolted to a Buick 225. I mounted my motor/trans offset to the drivers side 1.5 inches, so it is a little bit of a squeeze, but it fits. I originally got mine from a wrecking yard, then got another one from National Auto Parts for $20-$30 or so. If I figure out how to post pictures I'll put some up.

 

When I made my bracket for my pusher style slave cylinder. I found I didn't make it strong enough. I ended up making it out of 1/4" plate.



http://groups.msn.com/ScottMilliner/scottsjeeppictures.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=217

 

Here's the brackett I made to mount a Wilwood slave (pull back). I have since added another brackett that mounts to the T-case and re-inforces this one. However, I used it without the additional support for 2 seasons and really had no problems. I just wanted it beefier.

http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8930&d=1143082017

http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8928&d=1143081986