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Help Me Get My T18 Clutch Released!

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by 71CJ54WD, Jan 10, 2019.

  1. Jan 16, 2019
    71CJ54WD

    71CJ54WD Sponsor Sponsor

    DC
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    I am a bit behind you. Got 3 tacks onto the bearing. Bearing is in the arm and bell is on the engine. Transmission to go in soon hopefully. I ended up extending the ball 1/4". The spring that holds the fork onto the ball was snagging on the jamb nut so a tittle trimming and bending got us there.

     
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  2. Jan 16, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2019 Sponsor

    Cottonwood, Ca
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    I did the same thing to my bearing.
     
  3. Jan 16, 2019
    71CJ54WD

    71CJ54WD Sponsor Sponsor

    DC
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    We're in. To anyone who has read this far you have the full T18 recipe by reading what was posted by Norcal69 and myself. We happened to do the same swap at the same time, and have concluded that some of the information available via search on this site is incorrect...hopefully you find this post before any others. Namely, the 77 CJ5 V8 pressure plate that is suggested in other posts will not be your friend.
     
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  4. Jan 16, 2019
    zinertia2

    zinertia2 "and which part are you keeping?"

    San Diego
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    Norcal69
    Do you have a length for the retainer?
    Also which bellhousing are you using?
    Much farther behind w my Herm T19
    (Still has retainer w Ford od which works w AA throwout bearing (N1714) and Chevy arm on AA bellhousing) All in their 712583 (plus throwout)

    Concerned about length
    Thanks
    Dennis
     
  5. Jan 17, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2019 Sponsor

    Cottonwood, Ca
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    3.20 is my oal on the retainer. Same as a gm 4 speed.
    I am using a 66-70 jeep v6 bell.
     
  6. Jan 17, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2019 Sponsor

    Cottonwood, Ca
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    By extending your pivot out 1/4", where does the clutch release in the pedal stroke?
     
  7. Jan 17, 2019
    71CJ54WD

    71CJ54WD Sponsor Sponsor

    DC
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    I am not sure if extending pivot was the right move but its staying! My arm is currently positioned near the front of the window and releases approximately at half way point? I can look again before I start putting the floor in but I think thats a good estimate. Ideally the pedal would be more like a 1/3rd of the way back in the window at rest. You may have the better setup with the stock 1.5" total length pivot but again its not hurting anything so far in my setup and the pedal feels good (but I have not started and driven yet).
     
  8. Jan 17, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2019 Sponsor

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    When you say it releases at half way point, is that the pedal stroke or halfway through the fork window?
     
  9. Jan 17, 2019
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Volvophilic

    Post Falls, ID
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    That was quite a journey reading this thread. :bow:
    I've stated this before somewhere on this site, and I will add it again here regarding pedal effort. I know you got it figured out, but just in case it helps someone down the road...

    I can't remember what type of car we pulled it from (a Monza? Or a Buick equivalent? Skyhawk?), but I ran a bellhousing from a GM car in my '70 for a bit. I love, love, loved that clutch feel. The pivot ball was on the other side of the input shaft, so it required 1/2 the pedal pressure at twice the engagement range. Gone was the on/off clutch engagement that it had before. I could reach in and push the clutch with two fingers.

    The only drawback was the clutch cable placement. The cable needs to pull from the opposite direction with this setup. Swinging pedals would have been ideal, but I (17 y/o kid) lowered the cable below the stock pivot point for the direction change, and it got hung up on everything.
     
  10. Jan 17, 2019
    71CJ54WD

    71CJ54WD Sponsor Sponsor

    DC
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    The way I am picturing it now it is halfway or so in the window. Pedal release I don't know if I really recall but will check that shortly. Currently getting ready to put that Dana 18 in place with the new crossmember I welded up. I need some circlips for the 1310 joint into the companion flange...I need to dig up a part number and hope a store either has the clips or a whole joint and clips in stock.
     
  11. Jan 17, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2019 Sponsor

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    Quick google search came up with a Buick Skyhawk bell. That setup looks like it would provide more leverage on the release bearing than our traditional setups. Very interesting....
     
  12. Jan 17, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2019 Sponsor

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    It just dawned on me that I have one of those bells, fork and cable that you speak of...... its really tempting to drag it out and give it a try :banghead::censored:
     
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  13. Jan 17, 2019
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Volvophilic

    Post Falls, ID
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    If you have swinging pedals, it's totally worth it. The precision you gain in clutch control is reason alone.
     
  14. Jan 22, 2019
    71CJ54WD

    71CJ54WD Sponsor Sponsor

    DC
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    I am buttoning up most of the little stuff and thought I should figure out the tcase mount. Originally mine was hung from the frame. I guess swapping to twin sticks made the mounting hole a little further from the frame but I could use my brake to bend up a new bracket. What did you do for the tcase mount?
     
  15. Jan 23, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2019 Sponsor

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    When I installed the t18 and twin stick transfer case, I welded a tab to the stock cross member and used a stock 4cyl transfer case mount. To get it low enough to clear the floorboard made some 1 1/2" box tubing spacers off the frame. With this setup I never needed a stay cable to back up. This was my quickie solution back then. I never liked how low the trans and transfer case hung, or the fact that the cross member was 2 1/2" below that.
    I am currently fabbing a cross member that will gain at least 2 1/2" of ground clearance alone, then a little floor trimming will pick me up another 1 1/2".

    Here is my old setup. The v cut notch is where the drain plug access is. Everyone's mounting situation is different.

    [​IMG]
     
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  16. Jan 23, 2019
    71CJ54WD

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    DC
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    Interesting. I had to do a good bit of modification on my stock crossmember so it would mount up flush with the frame (without any spacers). I never had the guide wire and hopefully mounting the output on the tcase takes away the need but we'll see. I have a stock 4 cylinder mount but it doesn't make for the most beautiful mount in my case - I guess I'll attempt to hang it like stock and see how that goes.
     
  17. Jan 29, 2019
    71CJ54WD

    71CJ54WD Sponsor Sponsor

    DC
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    Did you go with a 2" diameter front driveshaft? I can't imagine the driveshaft hitting the engine/transmission if I stuff up the passenger front tire but wanted to be sure. I can always get a high wall thickness 1.25" diameter shaft but thats more money and if it isn't needed I would rather avoid that route.
     
  18. Jan 30, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2019 Sponsor

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    I have been running a 1.25 od shaft.
    Now that I am changing to a d30 and d20, I will need a shaft with 1310 ends. I am dreaming that a intermediate cj5 shaft will pop up locally.
     
  19. Jan 30, 2019
    71CJ54WD

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    DC
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    Did you feel like you could fit the 2" tube? Its only like 3/8" wider on either side of the shaft so I can't see how it would hit the oil pan or anything but just curious on your take before I order...I should probably hurry up and order that so I can do 4wd things asap
     
  20. Jan 30, 2019
    Norcal69

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    I don't see why it would be a problem on my jeep. But of course every application is different.
     

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