Grrrrrr! #$%# clutch.

I have browsed through the old posts, but none of tme really described my problem (at least the way I would). FYI: i just rebuilt and installed a new clutch, TO bearing, fork, T90, dana 18, and overdrive.

After attaching all my linkages, drive shafts, etc. this morning I jacked up the rear axle and went for my maiden voyage in the driveway. The clutch seems to have good travel, but is not completely disengaging (or engaging?). If grinds into 1st/reverse, but will go into 2nd 3rd smoothly, but with slight wheel spin once in gear with the clutch pedal depressed. If I shift immediately from 2/3 to 1 or reverse it will go in without grinding but still has minor wheel spin. When I say minor, I mean if not on jack stands the vehicle doesn't even move or surge. I tightended my linkage as tight as it could be, but still the same problem. I even drilled new holes in the frame and moved the bell crank pivot point back about 3/8 inch, then tightened the piss out of the clutch cable (don't worry, that actually made the pivot points between the TC and frame rail even). Still no luck.

So it seems to me it is not a problem of linkage travel, as when really tight things were worse.

I hear the fork hitting the pressure plate with minimal pedal travel, and the let-off to fully engage the transmission feels normal. I can hear the clutch disk friction as I let off the pedal to engage the tranny.

I used a mirror to inspect the fork and it seems to be resting well on the pivot stud in the bell housing.

Any ideas...sorry for the long description?

 

Geez, if it's not a simple matter of adjustment, I'd start by looking at the TO bearing. Seating properly and it is the right one?

 

The TO bearing came with the clutch kit and was the same as the one I pulled off. I guess I don't know how to inspect for proper seating.

 

Sparky says he'll stop by tomorrow.

Sounds to me like the TO bearing isn't sitting right.

 

Tell Sparky to eat his wheaties..........and i'll have the beer to go with them. I don't know if i'll have the energy until next weekend though. I ache from all this manual labor.

 

Did you replace the pilot bushing?

If you didn't, forget what I'm about to say.

If you did - did you check that the new bushing spun freely on the input shaft before you installed it? A tight pilot bushing can cause drag that acts just like a partly engaged clutch.

 

Yes... I went with a roller bearing type, and no, I didn't check it on the shaft first. I guess everything is pointing at me pulling the beast back off.

 

After all of that work...

Wish I were there to help you, man!

 

Bad news....Not that this will make you feel better...jon and I have removed his trans multiple times (because we are stupid). As of the last time-study, we could remove it in 20 minutes. It's sad when you know exactly what combination of wrenchs needed to remove the trans......Good news is that each install goes a little faster.

Not to state the obvious, but another suggestion is to make sure the clutch linkage is not binding on the floor board area.

 

MOP - have you tried it with the emergency brake holding the rear wheels? Even with the clutch depressed you will pick up some motion at the input shaft.
Kevin

 

I actually drove it a fair bit last night, after wondering if the motion was an artifact of being jacked up at the rear axle. I shift through all gears just fine, but going into 1/R it has problems. The floor board is removed, so I know there is no binding, plus I have inspected all parts of the linkage quite carefully while my wife was pushing the pedal from above.

I think the pilot bearing comment may have been dead on. It makes sense based on my symptoms and gut feeling. I will know to check with the actual shaft instead of an alignment tool in the future. And I will go with a standard bronze bushing rather than the needle bearing this time.

 

Well...I think time may be the cure I was looking for. I drove it again tonight and it seems to be doing better. I still have to shift into 2/3 to get it to go into 1/R smoothly, but it feels better than when I started yesterday.

Maybe the pilot bearing is loosening up with a little more use. I think that since the clutch seems to be acting normal, no grinding noises or other problems from the tranny/tc/overdrive, I am gonna run it a week or so and see what happens.

Man that overdrive is sweet. At 65 mph I barely hear the Dauntless rumble. I put most the floor panel back on tonight and was surprised how quiet everything is compared to my old chewed-up T86. Just have to trim and install the tranny cover to accomodate the OD shifter and i'll be good to go.

 

Please clarify this statement. I don't understand. If the alignment tool is dead centered once the pressure plate is torqued, how could it be off?

 

I was talking about how the tip of the input shaft fits with the pilot bushing(/bearing). I think I would have noticed if there was fricton between the shaft and bearing (which seems likely to be the culprit). The alignment tool has a slighly smaller diameter than the actual shaft at the tip.

I wasn't off as far as alignment. The disk was dead center when I torqued it down.

 

hello i just did my clutch i had the same thing i put the cross shaft in back words//turnd it around and all is fine//hope this helps