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Gloss Or Semi Gloss?

Discussion in 'Early Jeep Restoration and Research' started by Kz400, Apr 15, 2018.

  1. Jun 12, 2018
    Don X

    Don X President for Life Staff Member Sponsor

    San Diego,...
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    Tim, what do you mean by spray bomb gloss enamel?
     
  2. Jun 12, 2018
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Spray bomb is just a spray can.
     
  3. Jun 12, 2018
    Don X

    Don X President for Life Staff Member Sponsor

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    That's what I thought but wasn't sure.
     
  4. Dec 5, 2018
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Truckee CA
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    Bumping this thread up to ask about chassis paint as I am prepping my chassis and about ready to stockpile paint to put back on it. Wondering what you guys think about Eastwood Extreme Chassis vs. POR-15? And also whether gloss or satin would be more OEM? It's very hard to tell what the PO(s) have added over the years.
     
  5. Dec 5, 2018
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Original frames that I've seen were much flatter than satin. Paint on undercarriage parts was pretty c****y as I recall; not much of a match in gloss between different pieces. Black epoxy primer would work well, though it would look too good to match a factory job, I'd think.

    The body man at the Jeep dealership where I worked would mix gasoline with black paint for chassis paint. Not recommended, but a true story. It gave that tarry appearance he wanted, that matched the factory paint and was resistant to rock chips and such.
     
  6. Dec 5, 2018
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member Sponsor

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    POR-15 works well if used as directed but it's best used as a protective sealant and top coated with something else if you'r concerned with appearance. It doesn't like sunlight, it will get a weathered look over time. if you don't use two coats there will be pinholes & rust will develop.

    This is what mine looked like after one coat was applied-

    [​IMG]



    And after it had sat out in the weather for about 2 years

    [​IMG]

    And about 5 years-

    [​IMG]

    The rust was from pinholes because I only put on one coat but in spite of appearances the POR was still solid. I cleaned up the surface mess & recoated per directions then topcoated with a 2 part poly chassis paint. Now it looks nice & it ain't gonna ever rust again.
     
  7. Dec 5, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    I get that its not recommended - so I won't try it - but what does the gasoline do to make the paint more durable?
     
  8. Dec 5, 2018
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    According to this guy, it keeps the paint from hardening completely. Thus no rock chipping, I presume. No personal experience other than receiving this 'advice.'
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  9. Dec 5, 2018
    ojgrsoi

    ojgrsoi Retired. Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    I don't know about durability but it bonds well for some reason. I've heard about a guy that used gasoline to stretch enamel and also mobile home roof coating when he was running short. :whistle:
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2018
  10. Dec 5, 2018
    Hellion

    Hellion Rust covered & junky

    Eastern TN
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    Didn't see this addressed but the transmission and transfer cases, I've been told, were painted black (probably gloss or semi gloss).

    Pedal arms were probably black; at least they've been painted so on restorations that strove for accuracy.

    I have found no trace of paint on my skid plate but I imagine it was painted black to match the frame.
     
  11. Dec 25, 2018
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member Sponsor

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    old enamel weathers to flat without wax .por paint is good but any void in the finish allows water in and the paint film wont let it back out. I paint frames with the cheapest 2k black paint I can get and fluid film for rust prevention.
     
  12. Jan 2, 2019
    NCRenII

    NCRenII yellow fever Sponsor

    Far Nor Cal
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    On the Renegade II Reference photo threas I posted are many photos of ('71, but 65 same?). Some of the details you're seeking can be seen there. I notice the chassis black is thinned and poorly adhered. The engine skid is engine color. Almost everything else has the thin(ned?) black paint. I plan to look to try to determine what components were attached when sprayed.
     
  13. Jan 2, 2019
    rejeep

    rejeep Sponsor Sponsor

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    i believe the color name was Raven black or something similar.. gloss black for certain.
     
  14. Mar 12, 2019
    Chilly

    Chilly Active Member

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    Ive had mixed results with POR15. I'll use epoxy if I do another frame or axle housing.

    One thing I detest about it is the thin glassy slick cured surface. Not a good base for next coat. Supposed to recoat before cured but I have a job and like to sleep for a while each night. Ive also had it peel off like a celophane wrapper from clean smooth metal even though I etched it. Yeah, you can triple the time invested to make it work, maybe skip sleep for a day or so, or just use something that works as well without all the drama: epoxy chassis primer and topcoat.

    I just think it's over-hyped for what it is.
     
  15. Mar 12, 2019
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor Sponsor

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    I too am not a fan of Por 15. I cringe when I read an ad boasting the restoration used that product on all the underbody work. Encapsulation paint is nice and shiney, but in my experience, just causes problems with adhesion and moisture later on. To me, this stuff is the lipstick used on the pigs!
    If you're going to do the job, 2 part epoxy is best. Even old fashioned Rustoleum works pretty well.
    -Donny
     

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