Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by tarry99, Mar 23, 2018.
Studs are half 20. They are just slightly misaligned from the rotor holes.
From a Metric bolt circle I would assume?
but both william_cj3b and mickeykelly did not have to drill out their rotors
Lots of strange things ( variances ) go on in the manufacturing World of production parts..........not to say that any are off measurement wise either.......but some manufactures ( off shore ) will try to accommodate several part numbers under one part there making..........by either hole size , diameter of pattern or the hub or register ID that may be doing the centering of the disc...........meaning if the hub is a "near" interference fit to the rotor ID ...................the bolt circle may be off some.........in reality a few thousands in either direction will probably not be noticeable especially at low speeds and with oversized tires that tend to be hard to balance.
and that is why in the instructions this "note" was also mentioned:
"I have heard of the register being
up to .614" in some cases"
I thought that might be the case. BUT, the interweb says Samurai, Sidekick, Grand Vitra and XL-7 are all 5x5.5" thru 2007. The interweb is always right
well aware of all of this. thank you.
for what its worth - I had to drill mine out also but I also changed lug studs to get rid of the left hand threads.
It also cleared my 15" wheels...bust just barely. I was getting pretty nervous it wouldn't.
More info... After thinking about this today, I went back to check something tonight. The 4-dr rotor fits over both front and rear hubs of my parts rig just fine. The 2-dr rotor does not. I originally mocked up only the 4-dr version to check the fit with stock wheels.
The lugs holes on the 4-dr rotor measure 0.513-0.515". The 2-dr rotor measures 0.505-0.506". Not a big difference, but enough.
How about the center hub ID vs OD.........maybe that is what's holding up the interchange?
I don't have calipers long enough to measure. So, I did the next best thing. This is the solid rotor flipped with the hat facing the hub. Still won't go, front or rear.
I also found out that the Zuks have M12x1.25 studs. Close to but smaller than 1/2-20.
I also found that both the early K-H 15x4.5 and the later 15x5.5 wheels need 1-1/4" spacers to clear the 4dr calipers.
What a P.I.T.A. this is turning out to be. I figured do the dual master cylinder swap at this point. Perhaps I could have used the single cylinder master cylinder if I had a death wish, sure. But it's the wife's jeep so I want it safe, and right. Had to cut out my NEW muffler I put in last fall due to installation clearanceing. A few hours a day....plug and chug. I figure 2 more afternoons of crappy work and I'll be there
That sucks. For now, I kept the original master w/ the RPV removed. (It's just a rubber disc, you have to disassemble the master to get it out.) My only complaint is hard pedal. The Suzuki calipers are smaller than domestic stuff. I'm thinking a smaller bore master will be an improvement.
Yes or a better mechanical ratio at the pedal
Has anybody tried this on a utility / wagon or pickup been looking for the next project . TJ
Based on the results from doing my CJ at 2,500 lbs, I'm not sure I would do a wagon at 3,300. I'm going with the 11" Bendix on my wagon and adding the vacuum power booster.
to anybody that does do this in an old CJ, you really should go to a hanging pedal swap at this time as well. unless you enjoy crawling around and under and on a greasy, grimy jeep and floor.
also, check out a MC for a dodge. the MC lines go towards the outside of the vehicle. the the F134 and the T90, there is an ear in the way. i dont want to grind it out of the way, but space is a premium in that area. ross box, exhaust, frame, old MC mount plate (attached to the rossbox plate, so you really shouldnt cut it out at all.)
I can attest to the fact that good stock brakes on a wagon will stop it quite well.
And I can attest to not so good stock brakes on a wagon do not stop well. This is NOT a commentary on stock brakes, but rather the condition of said stock brakes. Bad news for Wilbur......Now on to the resurrection of Wilbur
finally got the dual master cylinder mounted to a bracket and welded into the right place. now to run lines. about the proportioning valve, is that needed with the dual reservoir?
its got two seperate, but equal sized bowls, so how does it work? unless under the cap, more fluid can go down into the front lines than to the back?
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