Front Disc Brake Tutorial

Discussion in 'Early CJ-5 and CJ-6 Tech' started by Focker, Oct 9, 2015.

  1. Dec 14, 2015
    Daryl

    Daryl Well-Known Member

    Bonney Lake, WA
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    RockAuto can be wrong. The 1 1/8" rotors were only offered late 76-78 CJ5 and CJ7 with the "6 hole" caliper brackets. Both of the later style knuckle mounted caliper brackets "2 bolt" used the 7/8" rotors. Don't let the internet fool you, it isn't always correct. Just wanted to clarify it for someone using later stock Dana 30 Jeep knuckles to do a disc swap on an intermediate Dana 30.
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2015
  2. Dec 16, 2015
    1955jeepcj5inabox

    1955jeepcj5inabox New Member

    Oregon City
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    Part update
    O'Reilly part # 3550RGS Brake Best Select. It is 1 1/8 " wide. I have about 1/8" gap still. No pad removal required.
    The parts guy didn't know what the difference was, they were both for the CJ5.
    Thanks for all the help.
     
  3. Jan 25, 2016
    CincyCJ5

    CincyCJ5 New Member

    Cincinnati, OH
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    Did you have to put in a proportioning valve, or was yours fine without one?
     
  4. Jan 25, 2016
    Focker

    Focker Rust Never Sleeps Staff Member Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
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    I didn't...Seems fine. I wouldn't mind trying one to see if the front brakes bite a little harder than they do.
     
  5. Feb 14, 2016
    Black Bear

    Black Bear New Member

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    Would a stock wheel clear the caliper with this swap?
     
  6. Feb 14, 2016
    SFaulken

    SFaulken Member

    Renton, WA
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    IIRC, a stock 15" wheel won't. Or maybe that was just the Kelsey-Hayes. I think 16" are fine, and most aftermarket 15"
     
  7. Mar 5, 2016
    jayhawkclint

    jayhawkclint ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ Sponsor

    San Diego, CA
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    Excellent writeup. There used to be a section here called "Tech Articles." It was a tab on the main page of the site, separate from the forums. Sort of like what a sticky would be called now. We had a nice writeup in there on disc brakes, but it was lost a few years ago. It was so similar to your pics, I almost thought someone had found it from an archive. Nice to bring this valuable info back (although nary a reference to "knuckle pudding" hahaha). Here's a link to the original Verne article:

    Drum to Disc Brake Upgrade - Tech Articles - JP Magazine

    Here's another popular article:
    Disc Conversion
     
  8. Mar 5, 2016
    jayhawkclint

    jayhawkclint ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ Sponsor

    San Diego, CA
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  9. Mar 11, 2016
    sammy el toro

    sammy el toro New Member

    Jurupa Valley, CA
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    What the full story on the resisdual valve? I know it is only for the disc side of the master cylinder. Its a must have?
     
  10. Mar 11, 2016
    Focker

    Focker Rust Never Sleeps Staff Member Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
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  11. Mar 26, 2016
    shaun

    shaun Member

    ohio, Beavercreek
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    What did you use for your tie rod and drag link? You had to change that if you have the one hole knuckle right?
     
  12. Mar 26, 2016
    Focker

    Focker Rust Never Sleeps Staff Member Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
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  13. Mar 29, 2016
    45es

    45es Member

    Naches, WA
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    While looking at the pictures posted of Focker's install, I noticed the wheel lug studs appeared to be short in length. The knurled section of the stud is short of the face of the hub and in the view where the wheel is mounted, the stud does not protrude completely thorough the lug nut. In my case where I have aluminum wheels this is a real issue and therefore used Dorman P/N 610-219.1. The knurl is longer and the overall length of the stud is longer.
     
  14. Mar 29, 2016
    Focker

    Focker Rust Never Sleeps Staff Member Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
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    Thanks for posting an another Dorman option...Any pix?
     
  15. Mar 30, 2016
    45es

    45es Member

    Naches, WA
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    Yes. I used standard lug nuts to check fit up and to show the lug bolt to nut relationship.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Mar 31, 2016
    45es

    45es Member

    Naches, WA
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    I found a couple of more items that concerned me. The banjo bolts and brake hoses Focker listed are the OEM parts to be used with the K10 calipers. When I installed the brake hose onto the caliper, I did not feel the bolt engaged the caliper very well. The bolt only threaded into the caliper about 1/4". I felt the brake hose would be more securely held in place with a longer bolt. I used NAPA banjo bolt P/N UP82701 which is approximately 1/8" longer. See comparison picture below. The OEM bolt did not have many threads engaged into the caliper as you can see in the picture.
    [​IMG]

    I needed a wider inner bearing race for the brake pads to fit correctly. In the original post, Nick recommender race P/N LM501311. This bearing race is 0.7160" wide as compared to the original bearing race of 0.580". It did move my hub assembly out and gave the clearance needed. It also created a new problem for me. With hub assemble moved this far out on the spindle, I could not thread my bearing locking nut fully onto the spindle.
    [​IMG]

    I researched and found bearing race P/N LM501314 which is 0.6537" wide. This gave me the clearance I needed for the brake pads and allowed full engagement of the locking nut.
    [​IMG]
     
  17. Apr 1, 2016
    Focker

    Focker Rust Never Sleeps Staff Member Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
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    Thanks for posting your results for others who may encounter the things you did...It's great info!

    I'm almost certain that most will experience some unique element with their conversions. The biggest motivation/inspiration/plagiarism for my conversion was from a 9 year old article in fourwheeler.com that ITLKSEZ posted. I worked out the bugs I encountered along the way with lots of help by those previously mentioned, then posted my results. I wanted to provide updated part numbers, specific tools required and self explanatory photos. While I didn't use exact part numbers they listed, I did however use mostly Chevy parts. I don't recall any concerns when assembling the Chevy K10 calipers along with the K10 hoses or K10 banjo bolts. My experience didn't require any machining to the hub or the use of different races...It was almost a bolt & go...Or maybe I should say stop! :D
     
  18. Apr 27, 2016
    m38willys

    m38willys Jeep Vice Sponsor

    Jacksonville NC
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    Hmmm. Wonder if this will work on my Willys truck D27.
     
  19. May 18, 2016
    w3srl

    w3srl Curmudgeon-in-training Staff Member Sponsor

    Pittsburgh, PA
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    Yep! :)
     
  20. May 18, 2016
    Daryl

    Daryl Well-Known Member

    Bonney Lake, WA
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    Virtually every axle ever bolted under the front of a 4 wheel drive Jeep from 1942 to when they started adding them factory.
     

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