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front and rear wheel seals.

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by unclebill, Mar 1, 2009.

  1. Mar 1, 2009
    unclebill

    unclebill Banned

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    i want to buy new seals because it seems like a good idea to repack the bearings on this 63 cj5 i bought a few days ago.
    according to the 1960 manual i should repack the front every 6000 miles.
    my question is.
    where do you guys get these and do you have a part number?
    also should i buy a few of them so i dont have to jump through these hoops again anytime soon?
    if i seem ignorant about these vehicles it's because i am!
    thanks
    bill
     
  2. Mar 1, 2009
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    First off, Which rear axle do you have? Flanged or tapered? The tapered will have a big castle nut holding the hub on. If you look on the axle tube where it joins the wheel backing plate, you will find a grease fitting. If so then packing the bearing is not required. Use your grease gun.
     
  3. Mar 1, 2009
    BenFoley

    BenFoley Member

    Cedar Rapids, IA
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    I just bought all my seals from Kasier-Willys. The fitment and quality were great.
    :v6:
    BenF
     
  4. Mar 7, 2009
    unclebill

    unclebill Banned

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  5. Mar 7, 2009
    tom allen

    tom allen New Member

    Oklahoma
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    You could always pull the old seal, clean it good and see if you can get a number off it. If you can your parts store can probably cross it, if not they can probably match it up by size od and id.
     
  6. Mar 7, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Any local parts store should list them by application.
     
  7. Mar 7, 2009
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    On the D-44 (rear) You will have either the tapered shaft or flanged. If you have the tapered axle (has outside cap w/inside castle nut) you will have only one seal and you have to pull the axle to get to it. Thats one seal each side. The bearing is greased by a grease fitting on top of the housing tube close to the brake backing plate, hence (no nead to remove axle to greas bearing). Now if you have the flanged axle ( flat at end of axle - no big castle nut) it will have two seals on each side. You will need a slide hammer type tool to remove the axle and special technique for packing the bearing. You should have the FSM when you dig this deep.
     
  8. Mar 8, 2009
    unclebill

    unclebill Banned

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    ive got the zirc on the rears and the front seems pretty easy.
    yes i do need the FSM.
     
  9. Apr 10, 2009
    unclebill

    unclebill Banned

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    update
    i never did figure out how to get my locking hubs off.
    i am going to save up and take it to a mechanic and have the bearings repacked along with inner and outer seals replaced .
     
  10. Apr 10, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Front inner seals require quite a bit of labor to replace. The hubs, spindles, and axle shafts have to come out, then the front diff. carrier. The seals are on the inner ends of the axle tubes, just outside of the carrier bearings. If those aren't leaking, I'd leave them.
     
  11. Apr 10, 2009
    unclebill

    unclebill Banned

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    id like to repack the bearings but..
    ive got a dirt driveway with no garage and i have to park in it everyday.
    i dont like leaving tools and parts laying in the dirt for a week at a time.
    everything i try to do takes more than one weekend.
    i am not being a quitter but i just have to face the fact that some things are going to be hired out.
    it will probably be at least a weeks wage to repack the bearings. ( about $350)
    i have no tools or the time or space to do it in.
    i had to rebuild my brakes on my kitchen table for instance.
    i am getting more and more zen as my jeep ownership goes on....
    it's an antique vehicle and i need to think of it like that.
    now that the really big issues are taken care of.
    i am not near as frantic.

    p.s.
    i am having a hard time imagining putting 1000 miles a year on this thing.
    so a repack is only going to be every 5 or 6 years.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2009
  12. Apr 10, 2009
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Re the front hub bearings, typically you repack the outer front wheel bearings, and leave the inners and seals alone. Replacing the seals and repacking both bearings is excessive for every 6000 miles, IMO. The exception would be if you get water into the hub - if so, the grease will look like mud, and you'll need to clean it out and repack the bearings. The inner bearing will not come out without removing the seal, and removal will ruin it.
     
  13. Apr 10, 2009
    unclebill

    unclebill Banned

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    there was water in my front differential....
     
  14. Apr 10, 2009
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
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    I'd say that since the Jeep is new to you, and you know there was water in the front axle, then it would behoove you to rebuild it properly. After that, it should last the rest of your lifetime. And if you're planning on any mountain trails, given where you live, I'd want all systems as functional and dependable as possible! That's why I'm rebuilding my '56 from the ground up and doing all kinds of performance/safety upgrades, I don't want ANYTHING breaking while I'm coming down Black Bear.
     
  15. Apr 10, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Water in the diff. doesn't mean there's water in the wheel bearings. I would pack them, though. $350 sounds really high. Should be more like $150-$200.
    As far as the water in the diff, I assume you changed the lube. Did you turn it around and flush it out, and inspect the gears as best as you could?
     
  16. Apr 10, 2009
    unclebill

    unclebill Banned

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    turn it around?


    i drained it and cleaned it out as best i could then filled it again.
    it has been driven 2 miles since then.
     
  17. Apr 10, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

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    As in turn the pinion yoke/ ring gear so you could inspect the gears...
    I'd run it a little, then drain it again.
     
  18. Apr 10, 2009
    unclebill

    unclebill Banned

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    i just got a quote from my favorite mechanic.
    $200
     
  19. Apr 10, 2009
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    Bill - I know your a good distance from me, but I hate to see you get screwed by something as small as the front wheel bearings or anything else like that. If you get a list of things that you think are over your head - send me a list. Worst case I get to take a trip to Durango and back and call it a 'mini vacation'. The wife won't even complain to much if I can find something fun for her to do to - though she hates Wolf Creek Pass.

    If you have someone there you trust - I can be a resource - heck, I might have the same hubs someplace and can take pics for you as to how you go through the work.
     
  20. Apr 10, 2009
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

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    Wifey ought to like Ouray in the spring! I'm just saying... :rofl:
     
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