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Frame work thoughts?

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by mike@IIM, Apr 22, 2005.

  1. Apr 22, 2005
    mike@IIM

    mike@IIM Member

    Washington Nj...
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2005
    Messages:
    113
    ok so the cj has some rust.(well lots) I figure the best place to start is to get a good solid frame.

    I don't think I want to swap the frame. Mine is fix-able. It also has the original 1959 serial number stamped into it. That 4inch pice of iron is like gold when you talk about insurance and classic cars.

    So I know the frame needs to be level, and as open as possible. I am thinking about leaving it on its axles and springs. With only the floor removed.

    The springs are not great and may not actually provide equal stress to the frame from both sides.

    The second alternative is to put the front and rear corners up on jack stands. unfortunately the weak spots are near the center of the frame. I am afraid of adding stress to the center by lifting the outer edges and welding it that way.

    option 3 is strip it down to the bare frame. Put the frame on the concrete floor and weld away, then flip it over with with a friend or two and do the other side.

    I don't really want to take the full jeep apart, engine out body off ect ect.

    What do the experts think?


    Also metal thickness ?? If I were to build it ground up, I planned on 2x4 x3/16 square tube. That's a tad bit excessive for a little 4cyl.
    So I don't want to do that much work or add that much weight, or change the frame.

    Once reality set in... I looked at my jeep the non rusted sections are not even 1/8 inch. And the Cj is not exactly a heavy truck. So I am actually thinking of running strips of 12 or 10 guage sheet over the top and bottom of the existing c-channel. then boxing in both wall sides.
    Again most of the frame is fairly solid to support that method. In the end I should have a frame a that is at least 1/6 thicker than stock in its weakest points, and boxed as well.

    Again I have a second thought. Just getting another frame and making cuts through the rails at a 60 degrees. Doing the reverse on the other frame and welding the good pieces back together. I read once that the angle cuts relieve the stress on the welds when compaired to verticle cuts. This method is actually more involved, but leaves a clean original looking frame. don't know wich is stronger.

    Any suggestions from the group?

    Any tips, expected problems, things I should be aware of. Things I should avoid? Am I completely crazy(I may not disagree)

    Anyway I would rather talk about dumb ideas now instead of complain about big mistakes later.

    Thanks.
     
  2. Apr 22, 2005
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    5,349
    First off you make this frame sound like its in terrible shape. (how about a picture0

    Boxing the frame is ok but you also need to realize the frame on these Jeeps was designed as an integral part of the suspension and is made to flex, thats why its riveted in most places instead of welded. Strapping the frame as you mentioned is common to strenghten up weak spots. That said it would be better to see pics, and if the frame really needs alot of work, disassemble it completely so you can work easily.
     
  3. Apr 24, 2005
    mike@IIM

    mike@IIM Member

    Washington Nj...
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2005
    Messages:
    113
    I posted some pics on the intro page a few days ago. I have been trying to copy paste the webshots link since I left work, but my home PC and I are not getting along right now.

    My thoughts, the frame is bad, but I want to keep that serial number. After reading and hearing opinions from others and re-evaluating it this weekend, yea it's not worth a full rebuild on the frame.

    All shock mounts need work, all spring mounts could use a little work, The trans cross member is shot, and at worst the lower frame rail from the cargo bed back needs to be replaced. Its only really bad in the last foot or two. There is a week spot or two near the rear bumper on the top rails.
    I think I am comfortable with the patch and strap ideas. This jeep is light weight and will never see hard off road, so I am ok with that.


    I since I am feeling better about the frame, I did find more body problems, but thats another day.

    Still have my frame stress problem however. The ground is not level, the springs are shot and at best not provinding equal force to the frame.

    For a lower rail repair I need the springs and mountings cut off and I need the frame straight level and as stress free as possible.

    Looked at the jeep the ground and the equipment available for an hour, still have not figured out how to do it easily.

    I have plenty of standard jack stands, several floor jacks, lots of large wood blocks ranging from 2 thick to 8in thick.

    I can lift the jeep by the axels and try to suport it with stands by the bumper corners. Stands are to short and require more blocks than I feel good about. Thought about building taller stands maybe with 1 inch threaded rod and a nut to adjust the height exactly.

    Hovever seems like by lifting the corners I am putting stress on an already weak center section. Don't want to weld the frame into a curved bananna shape.

    Supporting the center is not going to work well either. lower rails are to weak in places to support weight, and I need to weld there anyway.

    Really don't want to rip everything off the frame and weld it in the garrage. Oh can't bring the jeep into the garrage either. half is filled with large tools and equipment. The rest belongs to princess classic tbird. I can't leave the bird outside long enough to rebuild the jeep.

    Anyone have an opinion or suggestion?


    .....oooohhh as I am writting the light bulb might have clicked, what about jacking up the corners cutting the springs and axels out, then slipping new metal under the frame. A few clamps to hold it then jack up the jeep with the stands under the new metal and support the weight in the middle as well. Use 8 stands maybe more to get a nice even load on the frame. Then weld away.
     
  4. Apr 24, 2005
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    5,349
    You could do that, its sounds reasonable, or you could find another frame and cut the serial number section out and put it into the new frame.;)
     
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