1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Floor Brake Pedal Contacts Bell Housing And Mc

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Lee Bennett, Mar 3, 2019.

  1. Mar 12, 2019
    Lee Bennett

    Lee Bennett Banned

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2019
    Messages:
    291
    Sorry, didn't notice it was ken5a who asked. oops
     
  2. Mar 12, 2019
    cadwelder

    cadwelder Member

    Milton KY
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2011
    Messages:
    202
    The brake lever I'm holding in my second pic is from a 3A and has the small, non-stepped MC push rod pin. Just a guess but I'd say the pin difference has to do with single or dual MC.
     
  3. Mar 12, 2019
    Lee Bennett

    Lee Bennett Banned

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2019
    Messages:
    291
    Got the debellas pedal today. See pic. Looks like what cadwelder and key5a are working with. Wonder if they had to add a slight bit more bend to the left at the top to clear bell. Sorry pic is upside down. Will try to install tomorrow. WP_20190312_11_24_37_Selfie.jpg
     
  4. Mar 12, 2019
    cadwelder

    cadwelder Member

    Milton KY
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2011
    Messages:
    202
    Lee, I took your pic, rotated and aligned it. Three things caught my eye: 1) looks like you'll need to heat and bend to clear motor; 2) small MC push rod pin may or may not be an issue; 3) based on the shadows and light of the lever on the plywood, it looks like your picture somehow got mirrored.
    6983.jpeg
     
  5. Mar 12, 2019
    Lee Bennett

    Lee Bennett Banned

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2019
    Messages:
    291
    Agree. Likely will be bending the end. The pin size should only add slack in pedal travel, right? Yes, sorry for the bad pic. It is a shadow. Wonder if I will have to bend the pedal so much that it will no longer align with the pedal hole in the floor pan.
     
  6. Mar 12, 2019
    cadwelder

    cadwelder Member

    Milton KY
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2011
    Messages:
    202
    The V6 lever I have moves the brake pedal about an inch left of where the 3A lever would put it. Also, as far as the lever hitting the MC, I don't think this should be a concern because it appears the pedal hits the floor before that could happen, and that's only with a full brake failure. Pics below lever in the approximate position of the pedal/floor contact. As for the pin, you may need to come up with a bushing and spacers to keep it from flopping around. Do you have a picture ot the push rod?

    --Dennis
    clear.jpg clear2.jpg
     
  7. Mar 12, 2019
    Lee Bennett

    Lee Bennett Banned

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2019
    Messages:
    291
    Plan to attempt installation tomorrow. Not sure why I would need to sleeve the pin -too much dead pedal? Pics will follow. Thanks
     
  8. Mar 13, 2019
    Lee Bennett

    Lee Bennett Banned

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2019
    Messages:
    291
    Had a great Jeep day!!! Got the new brake pedal installed. Had to bend it a bit at the bell, and ground some extra off the back side. Used a shorter bolt. No binding and the pedal is centered! Here's a couple pics of what I'm dealing with. C__Data_Users_DefApps_AppData_INTERNETEXPLORER_Temp_Saved Images_$_3(1).jpg C__Data_Users_DefApps_AppData_INTERNETEXPLORER_Temp_Saved Images_$_3(1).jpg C__Data_Users_DefApps_AppData_INTERNETEXPLORER_Temp_Saved Images_$_3(3).jpg
     
  9. Mar 13, 2019
    cadwelder

    cadwelder Member

    Milton KY
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2011
    Messages:
    202
    Congratulations on a job well done! How'd the pushrod work out with the new lever?
     
  10. Mar 13, 2019
    Lee Bennett

    Lee Bennett Banned

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2019
    Messages:
    291
    Doesn't seem to be an issue. Just a very slight amount of dead pedal. Can't use draft pads though as they will still contact the bell housing. Will probably just screw the rubber pad to the floor pan.
     
  11. Mar 15, 2019
    Lee Bennett

    Lee Bennett Banned

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2019
    Messages:
    291
    Thanks. I would add for any others needing to do this. Even using cotter pins that are wrong diameter can make a lot of difference. Not a lot of room for much slop.
     
    Mcruff likes this.
  12. Sep 1, 2022
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2007
    Messages:
    3,559
    Bumping this thread as I’m having this problem now. Any additional information/updates would be helpful.
     
  13. Sep 1, 2022
    Oldpappy

    Oldpappy A.C. Fults - Curmudgeon at large 2022 Sponsor

    East Tennessee
    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2021
    Messages:
    1,620
    I will look in my parts pile to see if I have one of the bent ones. I know I have a set that came out of a CJ5 which had the V6 but it was a conversion using the 71 bell, it was not a real Dauntless Jeep but the pedal wasn't hitting anything.
     
    Buildflycrash likes this.
  14. Sep 1, 2022
    oldtime

    oldtime oldtime

    St. Charles,...
    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2006
    Messages:
    3,466
    Andy I just saw this now. Funny because I just sent you a pm on this topic over on the 2A Page.

    Cj-5/6 used the same clutch and brakes pedal levers as all other Jeeps prior to 1966 when the Dauntless became an option.
    In 1967 the dual master cylinders were mandated on all new vehicles.
    When the Jeep split bore cylinders were installed a new frame bracket was designed to mount the master cylinder into proper position fitting both F134 and Dauntless cj5/6.
    The clutch pedal lever did not change at this time.
    The clutch pedal lever did change in 1970 when the late cable clutch control system was used. This change amounted to an extra hole located below the return spring hole to accept a pin for the control cable.
    Back to early 1966 on D225 only Jeeps we see that the pedal lever was reshaped on the upper end to help clear the bell housing.
    In 1967 the new split bore master made for a much tighter fit so the upper bolt for the pedal shaft clamp was eliminated. That bolt was replaced with a short countersunk screw.
    Also on 1967 and later brake levers both F134 and Dauntless Jeeps the push rod stud diameter was increased to fit the larger eye of the split bore push rods.
    Got that
    I can dig up various part numbers if needed.
    I’ll see what pics I have to upload.
     
    Buildflycrash likes this.
  15. Sep 1, 2022
    Oldpappy

    Oldpappy A.C. Fults - Curmudgeon at large 2022 Sponsor

    East Tennessee
    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2021
    Messages:
    1,620
    Ken,

    Odd that the 67 I parted out still had the single reservoir MC. Maybe it was an early production 67 or a 66 titled as a 67. I looked at the serial number plate from that Jeep but it doesn't show a year. My other CJ5 is also titled as a 67, and has a single reservoir MC. It is also a standard with the F-134.

    Anyway, the pedal isn't the one you are looking for, and may not be the one "Buildflycrash" is looking for, but here are a couple of pictures.

    KIMG0188.JPG KIMG0186.JPG
     
  16. Sep 1, 2022
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2007
    Messages:
    3,559
    So mine is a ‘67 with factory dual MC. I’m going to try bending the pedal and fixing the bushing next.
     
  17. Sep 1, 2022
    oldtime

    oldtime oldtime

    St. Charles,...
    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2006
    Messages:
    3,466
    Andy I just saw this now. Funny because I just sent you a pm on this topic over on the 2A Page.

    Cj-5/6 used the same clutch and brakes pedal levers as all other Jeeps prior to 1966 when the dual bore master cylinders became mandated.
    But the Dauntless CJ’s got a new lever to help clear the dauntless bell.
    Clutch lever # A405 (same as mb/gpw)
    Brake lever # A495 (same as mb/gpw)
    1966 Dauntless brake lever 946722.

    In mid model year January 1967 the dual master cylinders were mandated on all new vehicles.
    When the Jeep “split bore” cylinders were installed a new frame bracket was designed to mount the master cylinder into proper position fitting both F134 and Dauntless cj5/6.
    The split bore master made for a much tighter fit so the upper bolt for the pedal shaft clamp was eliminated.
    That bolt was replaced with a short countersunk screw.
    Also on 1967-1971 the brake levers for both F134 and Dauntless Jeeps; the push rod stud diameter was increased to fit the larger eye of the split bore push rods.
    1967 -1971 brake levers for all F-134 is # 945546
    1967 -1971 brake levers for Dauntless CJ’s #948181

    The clutch pedal lever did not change at this time.
    The clutch pedal lever changed in 1970 when the late cable clutch control system was used. This change amounted to an extra hole located below the return spring hole to accept a pin for the control cable.
    Clutch pedal lever for 1970-71 cable type clutch control systems #992756.

    # 948181 bend compared to A495
    [​IMG]
    Countersunk screw for brake lever
    [​IMG]
    Large diameter push rod stud
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2022
    Fireball and Buildflycrash like this.
  18. Sep 1, 2022
    Jw60

    Jw60 Sitting up n buckled down. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sedalia MO.
    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2008
    Messages:
    4,716
    Ken if you have those arms handy, could you bring them to Fulton with you for some reverse engineering?
     
  19. Sep 1, 2022
    oldtime

    oldtime oldtime

    St. Charles,...
    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2006
    Messages:
    3,466
    The 948181 Dauntless split bore lever is presently mounted on my current build.
     
    Jw60 likes this.
New Posts