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First Jeep build! Here we go...

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by '72CJ5, May 30, 2010.

  1. Oct 6, 2010
    '72CJ5

    '72CJ5 Member

    Modesto,...
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    Haha well I hope I dont have that same trouble. I can try getting ahold of the guy I sold them too. He lives right down the road from me. He bought them for his '72 cj5 which already has the 30 frt and a centered 44 in the rear. So not sure why he bought another set just like the ones he has. Maybe he will get rid of one of them.
     
  2. Oct 6, 2010
    '74Renegade

    '74Renegade Active Member 2019 Sponsor

    Fair Oaks, CA
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    Hey, no problem. If he happens to be getting rid of one, let me know, but don't go out of your way. They come up on craigslist from time to time, usually when funds are limited.
     
  3. Oct 6, 2010
    '72CJ5

    '72CJ5 Member

    Modesto,...
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    Ya I will get ahold of him and see for you. I did happen to find a 44 and frt 27 on the list for 500 with 5:38's and detroits for 500. Dont seem too bad but im sure the rear is offset.
     
  4. Oct 18, 2010
    '72CJ5

    '72CJ5 Member

    Modesto,...
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    Have been going through some things lately and really havn't done much of anything to the old man. I did find my first patch of rust on it though.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    The PO had replaced the driver side bucket but not the passenger side. I beleive there are just the 3 little nuts on the inside and it comes out, right? Where can I get a new one? Since I dont work all this week I should be able to post up some more progress on the jeep.
     
  5. Oct 19, 2010
    Thompology

    Thompology Member

    Sacramento
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    Yep. mine were 3 screws and thats it. I am thinking of just going LED on those too but they were in decent shape so I just left them for the time being.
     
  6. Oct 19, 2010
    '72CJ5

    '72CJ5 Member

    Modesto,...
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    It dont matter to me, either the regluar ones or LED. I just got to find a new one...that one is shot!
     
  7. Oct 19, 2010
    Thompology

    Thompology Member

    Sacramento
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  8. Oct 19, 2010
    '72CJ5

    '72CJ5 Member

    Modesto,...
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    Oh I dont know. I will try getting over there tomorrow so I can start workin on him again. I've got a bit of the lazy bug lately with that stupid boat that still leaks water into the oil. Once reading up on your build and posi's, its giving me a little bit of spark to get my dirty pants on and start working again.
     
  9. Oct 20, 2010
    Thompology

    Thompology Member

    Sacramento
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    Get after it man, you are way closer to having that thing rolling than to having the boat seaworthy! :)
     
  10. Oct 20, 2010
    '72CJ5

    '72CJ5 Member

    Modesto,...
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    And I care more about MY jeep then I do my BUDDIES boat. Thats his problem how ha. And its sea worthy as of now....it just runs off some water....and is lubricated with a 10w-40 and water mix. Never missed a beat though. Hows your deadline lookin?
     
  11. Nov 8, 2010
    '72CJ5

    '72CJ5 Member

    Modesto,...
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    Bought ready to get some drive lines made. Would it be better to get the parts I need and have them lengthened/shortened to my specs or fork over the money for some new ones? Also, I have read alot of conflicting info on the web concerning my clutch. Some folks say that I need the clutch for the trans and some say I need it for whatever motor I got. Since my 435 already has a jeep bellhousing on it and is ready to bolt up, all I got to do is pull the clutch to replace my pilot bushing and then slap it all together....right?
     
  12. Nov 8, 2010
    '74Renegade

    '74Renegade Active Member 2019 Sponsor

    Fair Oaks, CA
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    As far as drive lines go, I took the jeep and the old drive lines to the drive line shop and they reused what was good (yokes, stub, etc) and build up the correct length.

    When I did my tranny swap to a T18 with a 304, I used the pressure plate for the bell housing, clutch that matched the tranny, pilot bushing that adapts the 304 flywheel to the tranny input shaft and whatever throughout bearing fits your clutch fork. I was able to get everything from Stockton Clutch and Brake Exchange. I told them what I was doing and they set me up with the correct parts.
     
  13. Nov 12, 2010
    Hawkes

    Hawkes Member

    Nova scotia
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2003
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    I have Toy axles and a Dana 300, for driveshafts I used a combination of Toyota front and Jeep cherokee (XJ) rear. Use the diff yoke and slip from the Toyota, after removing the tube from the toyota slip the xj shaft pretty much slides on, then weld.

    You can't always use a regular driveshaft because of angles, in the rear on mine I had to use a CV joint, and my Jeepster is longer than yours. For the rear I used a Toy diff end and slip joint, and had the Toy end turned down to mate an XJ front shaft that has a CV. The CV goes on the transfer case.

    Dana 300 uses the same ujoints as an XJ.
    Not all Toyota 3rd yokes have the same bolt up pattern for the driveshaft, there are 3 different bolt patterns I think, so you have to watch for that.
     
  14. Nov 13, 2010
    '72CJ5

    '72CJ5 Member

    Modesto,...
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    I have already bought toyota flanges to put on my D300 and they have the universal pattern. The guy I bought my axles and springs from (toyota salvage) said he would get all the stuff I need for the both drive lines and he would make my front one for me but dont trust his balancing for the rear. I was thinking of using a rear toyota driveline on the front since the length of it and the angle is not steep at all plus my cross member is not wide so it will clear coming out of the t-case. I was going to use a front toyota shaft for the rear of the jeep since it will have the cv and I could just have it cut to length. That sound like it would work? First time messing with drive line lengths and changing them so i want to make sure I get it right.

    To renegade: I already got my pilot bushing from Novak and thats ready to go. Im not sure what bell housing it has since my combo already came with it on. The guy said it was the correct jeep bell housing to adapt the tranny to the motor and the pattern looks the same. I will call that place you mentioned and see what they have to say. Im hoping i can get away with what I got since my budget is getting purdy thin ha. Thanks for the input guys, i will be dropping and hopfully throwing in that 435/300 combo sunday morning. Wish me luck.
     
  15. Nov 13, 2010
    Hawkes

    Hawkes Member

    Nova scotia
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    Neither of my dshafts are balanced, I've never noticed a problem, except right now my front shaft has a dent and twist, I can feel that. The machinist that made them has been doing it for many years, he uses rollers and just eyes them as he's turning it and welding.

    The Toy front shaft for the rear is a good idea, you're likely going to need the CV.

    You don't need a ton of slip, leafs tend to droop better than they compress, so I set mine up with 1.5-2" of slip room to compress. Of course all vehicles are different and you'll have to see how yours flexes.
     
  16. Nov 13, 2010
    '72CJ5

    '72CJ5 Member

    Modesto,...
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    From how it is right now, she will have a purdy good amount of flex. Just by grabbing the roll bar and moving the jeep side to side, i can personally move it almost a foot either way. The front wont have much compression due to the springs being almost flat but the rear has a ways to go and im purdy sure will use it also. I was able to drag my rear axle back about 3" from stock location but my new tranny/t-case combo is going to eat that up plus a couple more so the cv in the rear is going to be a must. Then its off to adapting my toy brake lines to the jeeps. Is that how you did it?
     
  17. Nov 14, 2010
    Hawkes

    Hawkes Member

    Nova scotia
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    I bought the Jeep with the axles hung, and the brakes hooked up. I replaced the brake hoses with braided for toyota and they worked, the last guy must have changed the Jeep ends to match the Toy hoses.
     
  18. Nov 15, 2010
    '74Renegade

    '74Renegade Active Member 2019 Sponsor

    Fair Oaks, CA
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    Sounds like you just need the jeep pressure plate and the ford clutch that matches the diameter and your input splines. Oh. and whatever throughout bearing works with your clutch fork.
     
  19. Nov 15, 2010
    '72CJ5

    '72CJ5 Member

    Modesto,...
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    Well renegade I pulled that ol T-15 and Dana20 out tonight. I was surprised how light the combo was. Seriously, that 435/300 combo has the t-15/20 combo by at least 100 lbs. This is what I came to find out tonight: the clutch from my jeep slides right on the shaft of the 435 with no issues at all. My clutch disk though is a little worn so I will probably replace it with the ford disk and measure it up to my jeep one when I go get it. The throw out bearing from my jeep will not slide over that sleave that goes over the out put shaft of the 435 (sorry, im having a moment and cant think of the darn things name). Also, i think my pilot bushing from Novak is just a smidge too large to fit in my flywheel. The inner bore is as snug as could be on the 435 shaft, though so I need to research that to see if it needs pressed in or what. My T-15 pilot is shot and is different from the 435 pilot I got from novak. The T-15 pilot looks like a sleeve that slides inside and leaves the outter opening...well open and the novak one sits inside the outter opening, flush with the surface of the flywheel, but does not protrude inside like the other one. I will be surprised if that didn't confuse anyone, but I will put up pictures tomorrow to show what im talking about. So as of now, I need a 435 throw out bearing and clutch disk. Wish me luck taking the old pilot bushing out.
     
  20. Nov 15, 2010
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
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    Aug 7, 2003
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    pack the pilot bushing with grease and use a dowel or your clutch alignment tool. Pound the dowel into the pilot and the grease will push it out. Doesn't even have to be that snug of a fit. Heavy grease works best. I've heard you can use wet paper towel or toilet paper instead of grease too.
     

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