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Fino's 58 Wagon

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Aug 10, 2019.

  1. Sep 8, 2019
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    At the foot of...
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    I made my own sheetmetal shroud....it's not difficult. I used cardboard to make a template and a jigsaw to cut the metal.
     
  2. Sep 8, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Continuing work on the seats...got the crack welded up. It had been previously worked on with some ugly blobular welds - can't say mine were much better but I did try to get it hot enough to get some more penetration than the previous repair. Also started fitting in some seatbelts...I got a pair of YJ rear seat lap belts from a 4wd club member for a couple bucks and they should work fine for now. Mounted the inside portion of the belts to the seat mount.
    [​IMG]

    Trying to determine the best place to mount the outside portion of the belt...Especially on the passenger side, the belt cannot just be attached to the seat frame as the entire frame folds forward and there is no latch holding it down. The belt needs to be mounted to a fixed spot....thinking of mounting them here - hate drilling holes into it, but seems pretty unobtrusive. The passenger side would be in the same spot on the other side.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2019
  3. Sep 9, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

    Apopka, Fl
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    My '62 has factory mounting locations in the body, I guess they didn't have them in '58. After a bit I'll get you the proper locations.
     
  4. Sep 9, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    Thanks. I was reading about 3pt belt mounting on the old willys forum - after mickey's incident the topic came up and it seems there isn't a great way to mount the shoulder portion of the 3pt belts. 2pt belts are still better than nothing....
     
  5. Sep 9, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

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    The mounting locations are on the horizontal part of the floor. The center of the mounting bolt is 3 3/4" in (towards the back) from the vertical part you are showing. Total of 4 hold down locations and all the same distance in. The 2 outside locations are also closer to the outside than your proposed spot. Center to center of the 2 outside mounting holes is 55 1/2". Center to center from the outside mounting holes to the 2 inner holes is 21" for each hole, leaving 13 1/2" center to center of the 2 inside holes. 3 sets of lap belts can be installed with these holes/dimensions. Factory holes are 7'16".
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  6. Sep 9, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

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    I don't know when they incorporated the mounting holes in the body, maybe you'll find that they are there?
     
  7. Sep 9, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    based on your dimensions, they could be under the carpet. I pulled back a bit of the carpet this weekend, but not that far back. The good news is I don't really want to keep the carpet, but I have been holding off tearing it out just yet. The other good news is I did find that I still had the wood slats buried under the plush carpet an thick under padding. Pretty excited to get the wood slats exposed!
     
    Glenn likes this.
  8. Sep 9, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

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    Wood slats still being there is definitely cool! Phillips head, fine thread bolts were in my seat belt mounting plates.
     
  9. Sep 9, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    Glen, I assume the mount holes go all the way through the floorboard? Based on these dimensions...the driver side outside hole should be right here.....
    [​IMG]
    the vertical step is at the bottom of the pic and the underside of the floorboard is top of pic....will have to drill my own.
     
  10. Sep 9, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

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    The picture is looking forward, correct?
     
  11. Sep 9, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

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    I assume what you are showing sorta lines up to being in line with the id tag on the step?
     
  12. Sep 9, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    Yes...looking forward at the backside of the step and the underside of the floorboard above and behind the step. Hard to see, but the 4 id tag screws are on the left side of step.
     
  13. Sep 9, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

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    Ok, I do see the screws , they're next to the brace on the left. Most important step of course will be centering the 2 outside holes within the body itself. You'll also need some decent backing for extra strength under the floor. Maybe some extra large fender washers.
     
  14. Sep 13, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    Test fitting new radiator and fan space...pushed the radiator back about an inch from oem placement and used a 1 inch spacer pushing the fan forward an inch....radiator sits right down near the cross member so getting the outflow hose on will be tight. Fan clearance is tight with cross member but going to give it a run.

    [​IMG]
     
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  15. Sep 14, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

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    This reminded me that I had looked at mine. My original radiator is spaced away from the front (grill) by an inch or so. Tells me pulling air through the radiator with the fan is more critical than the closeness to the grill. The radiator mounting frame is actually designed where it leans the radiator in a bit at the top.
     
  16. Sep 14, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    Here it is with radiator mounted forward...as Glenn says the radiator frame keeps the cooling area back about an inch...I like the overall fitment if this position better, but it does make the gap to the fan larger and i would have to modify the battery tray support as it is in direct interference with the lower inlet.
    [​IMG]
     
  17. Sep 14, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

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    I tend to like your first picture of the new radiator mounting better. Personally I think the fan spacer should go to eliminate that possible problem. At this point you don't know what the result will be with the new radiator, so why don't you try it mounted as the first picture shows and without the fan spacer and see how it works?
     
  18. Sep 14, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    Decided to start with the radiator mounted back one inch...I put in metal spacers in place of the plastic. If this doesn't work, or when I get a shroud built, I can move it forward and modify the battery tray then. Figure this is worth a shot. I have checked the fan clearance quite a bit and am comfortable with including the one inch spacer...I get what Glenn is saying and if I thought it was much risk I would remove it and try without it first...but it really looks pretty good.
    [​IMG]

    While at this all hoses were replaced which is kind of fun when trying to buy for a one off application. I got the heater valve cleaned up and included it in the hose routing...it had been skipped, but now I need to clean up the pull cable as its frozen up.
    [​IMG]

    I also changed the manifold inlet to allow for better heater hose routing.
    [​IMG]
     
  19. Sep 14, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

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    You didn't seem as confident about the fan then as you do now so that's good. Fingers crossed the radiator makes a difference. :)
     
  20. Sep 17, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    So got it all tidied back up...and sure enough the heater shut-off valve started leaking out of the top of plunger. I ended up bypassing it just like was...there is no shut-off valve on the external heater core for the cjs, so this shouldn't be too big of a problem. But I am wondering if this valve is oem - looks like it is operated by one of the dash pull cables? If so, I would try to find a replacement. The other pull cable is the temp cable, and I assume that one goes to the air flow diversion flapper inside the heater core box just like the cj. Actually, I don't have much info on this heater system in the FSM - I am not 100% sure any of it is oem.
    [​IMG]
     

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