Fino's 1970 Mini Build Thread

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Oct 3, 2014.

  1. Dec 1, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    After a busy holiday period with family and travel, back at making progress on the CJ. The engine is getting new hardened valve seats put in this week at the shop. While they are doing that it was time for me to rebuild the R2g carb. It had never given me any problems, but figure a rebuilt engine should have a rebuilt carb. Have never done more than adjust carb screws before on any vehicle carb - and the couple outboard carbs that I have worked on are much simpler if not trivial. I got most of my info as well as the rebuild kit from Mikes Carb Parts and his videos.

    Here is the dirty carb as it was:
    [​IMG]

    Although there is probably a better way, I had to loosen and raise the top of the carb to get some of the throttle linkages the clearance they needed to release out of all the different bracketry. I later figured out to remove the screw at the bottom of the choke linkage for easy removal. The accelerator pump linkage on the other hand...
    [​IMG]

    Although it looked dirty on the outside from a coating of oil that then attracted lots of dirt and dust, the inside looked pretty good - although I am sure there was some shelac type residue from the ethanol fuels.
    [​IMG]

    The two problems I found included a main jet that had some damage to the top slot, but don't think the actual jet passage was damaged. Also found both idle screws had some grooving halfway down the tapered section. For $5 a pair, both the main jets and idle mix screws were replaced.
    [​IMG]

    Here are the parts after soaking...Since it didn't seem all that bad to begin with, I tried the Pine Sol method. Intended to mix 50-50 with water, but probably ended up with more like 1:2 Pine Sol:water ratio as my soaking bucket was a bit bigger than expected.
    [​IMG]

    I thought the method worked great....Let it sit in pieces submerged for 24 hrs and then used a soft fingernail brush and toothbrush to clean the rest off. This is when I could tell the yellow/gold varnish/shelac like stuff cleaning off. Rinsed with lots of water, air blow dry and then let sit dry. Then ran some little wire through all the passageways etc. Now if I can just get the smell of a janitors closet out of my hands, clothes and mind....

    Putting back together went pretty easy...New gaskets, idle mix screws, main jets (size 49 for 5000' here in Denver), needle and seat, accelerator pump (probably not necessary but came with kit) and of course the 2 check balls and associated little pieces (spring and 't' holder). I did not replace the power valve or the vacuum power piston, but cleaned them up. The piston definitely was sticking a bit before cleaning, and now operates smooth and freely. Kind of get the feeling it might have been sticking open a bit and causing things to run rich. We will see if this helps.
    [​IMG]

    Think it looks good to go. I also have a new set of 48 jets to test out if necessary. As 5000' is my lowest elevation here in Denver - and everything goes up from here for most of my driving and wheeling, I thought I might want to try a smaller jet at some point.

    Now to get back to the brakes and get the engine back from the shop...
     
    47v6 likes this.
  2. Jan 17, 2017
    jwmckenzie

    jwmckenzie Sponsor Sponsor

    Boston, MA
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    Looks like from your post Re: manifold ports. Your engine is painted. What paint color did you select.
     
  3. Jan 17, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Yes - progress continues! Its been slow with holidays and then I work a second job during the winter months that is 2 states away so lots of travel, but things are starting to come back together. I will get some pics of the engine up soon, and hopefully including it installed back in the jeep. I wasn't all that particular with the color - just wanted something that would be close the the Buick green or whatever you want to call it, but it didn't need to be an exact match. I have seen photos of others' engines posted on here with whatever color distortion occurs between camera and computer screen, and never seen the proper color in person but thought this worked pretty well...Aervoe paint Alpine Green (540). It probably needs a bit more green to really match the Buick green it works for my purpose.

     
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  4. Jan 28, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Small update...engine block is back in jeep and spent some time today getting things back together...progress is progress even if its slow:

    Dropping the engine in...

    End of today with fuel pump and lines connected, carb on as well as exhaust manifolds on and connected to exhaust pipe.

    Doesn't seem like a lot, but certainly used up a lot of time. I am getting new hardware for most everything, so I had to make a couple of trips to the hardware store for some bits and pieces I forgot. Alternator and then radiator and heater along with hoses and all next. Then battery, starter, coil and distributor. Will be happy to be done with engine bay, and then can move to sliding the T14/D18 combo and crossmember on.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2017
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  5. Jan 28, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Here is a question: What is the little hole in the timing cover? From what I can gather its for a little oil line to lubricate the timing chain? I don't really have a good way to run an oil line to it and intend to just plug it off. But it has a coarse thread and all the little pipe plugs I can get for it are fine thread for 1/8". It came with a recessed allen head screw (kind of like a set-screw) but it can actually thread all the way through and fall into the timing cover. Thinking if using a little loc-tite to keep it place or putting in a very short hex head bolt.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Mar 5, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    A bit more progress...

    Engine is mostly ready to go...got the oil pump priming tool and tested today. Looks to run just fine on my 3/8 drill and flows oil and builds pressure up on my mechanical gauge. I do need to pull valve covers and see that there is flow up to valve train.

    Also added some of this comp cams break-in additive that came with my comp cam.

    Although no pics, the T14/D18 is attached and ready to go as well - I tried to improve some of the leaking/seal issues on the D18 that showed up after my rebuild last summer. Maybe it used to have so much caked on mud and grease that the leaks weren't as noticeable. Maybe tomorrow will be a chance the see if it will start.
     
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  7. Mar 5, 2017
    75 DJ

    75 DJ Member Sponsor

    Des Moines, IA
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    You're getting closer! (y)
     
  8. Mar 5, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
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    Are you talking about the course threaded hole below the priming tool?
     
  9. Mar 5, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

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    Yes ....what's its purpose?
     
  10. Mar 5, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

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    A 3/8"x16 bolt goes in there and holds the distributor clamp down......
     
  11. Mar 5, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Is it for a different dist clamp than what the 225 runs - my dist hold down is behind the priming tool squeezed between the dist and the block. Its a 9/16 head (probably a 3/8 bolt diameter). I'd have to go back and check, the the little hole that is visible below the priming tool is smaller diameter - more like 1/4" - the timing cover came with a small recessed head allen screw.
     
  12. Mar 6, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

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    Maybe you should post a picture of what hole your talking about...............The hole below the distributor is normally for the clamp that holds the distributor in place.........see mine below:

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Mar 6, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Here is my new timing cover - pic is taken from passenger side so block is to the left. The dist hold down bolt hole is to the left or on the block side of the distributor shaft slot on the raised portion. The hole that is above the distributor shaft in the picture (or towards the driver side) is the hole that I don't know about. Looks to be about where tarry's hold down mount is located. Maybe the aftermarket replacement cover had options for both hold down locations?

    Here is my old timing cover (pic is taken from driver side so things are reversed) - no hole adjacent to the distributor - just the hold down mount towards the block on the raised portion.

    FWIW - this is how my distributor is held down:
     
  14. Mar 6, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

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    Well James , I really don't know what the extra hole would be for? Did you say that is an aftermarket Timing cover and not an OEM?

    Perhaps like you mentioned that hold down location may be for a different version.........I think these same covers also fit various V6 and V8 combinations like the 215-225-231-252-300-340-350 motors.....

    I think you said the extra hole was threaded?........I would put a bolt in there with a fibre washer and some silicon and plug it off..........
     
  15. Mar 6, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    No worries Tarry - I did what you suggested. It is an aftermarket timing cover - my OEM cover had some damage where the oil pump gear had ground some of the metal shavings through and scoured up the inside of the cover. I have seen some on here that polished up worse looking ones than mine and re-used, but since I was able to get one, saving a few bucks at that point of a complete rebuild didn't seem worth it. Sometimes fixed up OEM is better than aftermarket...we'll see. The aftermarket cover is for a variety of the v6 and v8 applications - much like the melling oil pump - the hole is probably for some other application.
     
  16. Mar 7, 2017
    johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    Quebec, Canada
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    Hum i think that hole i use if you want to put a small tube for lubricating the dizzy gear and camshaft gear. You can do it using a " T " on the oil sender so you will have oil over the gear.

    Just a theory, i have seen it before on amc engine.
     
  17. Mar 14, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    I finally got it running! I finally figured out what was wrong with my old distributor - the inner housing neck that the breaker plate fits on won't stay inside the distributor housing and kept riding up pushing the breaker plate up towards the rotor (or in my case pushing the pertronix pick-up into the rotor ring). The tubular neck sticking off the breaker plate should be solidly inside of the housing behind it and not come out.

    Should look like this one:

    I tried fixing it over the weekend, cannibalizing a salvaged distributor that I have for emergency back-up - and I think I can make something that functions fine from those two. But in the process I also found the pertronix ring rubbed against the magnetic pick-up and caused some damage. Some of the magnets seemed to be loose, and one fell out pretty easily - two more were loose so I just popped them out and will have to figure a way to adhere them back into the ring (superglue, epoxy or something)

    So...I was able to buy a cardone rebuilt delco distributor with points from my FLAPS and walk out the store with it (and it was cheaper than online sources like Rock Auto). Dropped it in, checked some play clearance etc, and things started right up. I can take my time now to fix up the pertronix ring, and then I will swap that into the new distributor, and combine the old two distributors into one good back-up distributor with points.

    After getting the engine started, I took it up to 2000rpm for 20 min. After a few minutes the engine temp started getting too hot and running rough. Even though I know its not recommended, I had to let it idle for a minute to check timing - I forgot to tighten down the dist hold down clamp, and it pushed the timing way off. From that point on, it ran nicely - held exactly 180 on my new temp gauge and oil pressure was 50 or so. Will still have to go through some carb tuning etc as well as check on the whether my clutch and transmission will function after the re-install. Probably going to need to adjust the clutch linkage a bit. So far, my reseal of the D18 seems to be much better - but might already have a rear main seal leak on the engine!
     
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  18. Mar 15, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Check the oil today - nothing obviously bad. Wrapped up some basics like finalized the clutch adjustment and got the floor pans in. Also got it tuned roughly with dwell at 30, and carb idle adjustments dialed in a bit (probably going to need continue to tweak that as it settles in). Took it for a spin around the neighborhood block today - no problems or funny noises and it felt peppy. Did a couple 2nd gear 10-30mph runs to disturb the neighbors a bit. Put the new 11inch front drums to work as well - really liked how it stopped. Absolutely noticeable improvement - I almost felt like I could probably lock up the fronts with 33s if I pushed hard enough.

    Despite that it will continue to mark its territory - seems hopeful that I will have functional jeep soon. Gonna get it out to an open section of road and do a few different 3rd gear 30-60mph runs and put a few trips around town on it, then change the oil and filter. Then I will try get some more miles on it commuting to work a bit.
     
  19. Mar 15, 2017
    Focker

    Focker Rust Never Sleeps Staff Member Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
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    Just install an "Oil Slick" switch. :sneak:

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Mar 16, 2017
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Speaking of the M-Gun button: my BIL, who is Navy EOD, stopped by for a few days on his way from San Diego to his new station on the east coast. He was driving his JK and of course was traveling with a decent arsenal, and with some great spring weather for getting out, we got both his JK some exercise and I did more shooting than most of my life. My few shooting experiences are limited to targets with .22s and some shotguns (although I do have some trophies from my young days in some handgun competitions that my dad took me to), but got to shoot both a couple different semi-auto ARs and an americanized AK, along with the standard .22 and 12 gauge. Amazingly enough, after just a a few rounds, the breathing techniques and trigger pull came right back from 25 years ago and I hit some sweet targets.

    My BIL - enjoying his time in Colo

    Myself checking out a scope - Believe it or not, I had never shot anything with a scope, just the old fashioned gun sights (scopes weren't allowed in the comps I did).

    Even my wife - who I do not believe has ever shot anything (but she did grow up on a eastern cow ranch - so I could be wrong) got into it - but apparently I have no pics.

    Of course - I was really hoping to have my cj ready to go for this, but it was fun to get to ride along with my friend in his BJ40 and watch my BIL give his JK some work:
     

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