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Fino's 1970 Mini Build Thread

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Oct 3, 2014.

  1. Feb 3, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Allright - another update which means progress...I hope...

    The rear tank set-up is working great although I am still tweaking the filler hose set-up. Might eventually have to bend (well find someone with a bender) some thin wall tube and make a better filler. The hybrid rubber hose and 90 degree exhaust connector likes to get jostled around and is hard to keep a good seal with the hose clamp. Only drips a few drops when filling but its a work in progress...

    As for the good news...I think I have the tank switching mechanism all set-up (given the recent snow storm here in CO I haven't had a chance to go fill up the second tank to really test). I used an electrical 6 port mechanism that switches fuel lines (to carb and return) for each tank as well as switches the sending unit so the stock fuel gauge will read whichever tank is being used. This is the 'pollack' style 6 port switch- I think its pretty much the same switch used by all the FLAPS under different names. I got the full range of FLAPS all very close, but when I need some parts counter help, my friends at the carquest are truly helpful so I try to buy from them when possible. So, for them the switch is the BWD FSV3 (fuel switching valve 3) and associated FSV3a wiring plug. Total cost around $90.

    [​IMG]

    The only real frustrating part was I could not find any of these valves with 5/16 fuel line and 1/4 return - they all come with 3/8 and 5/16 respectively. So that required stepping the hose sizes down to fit. This pic shows my initial attempt...I ended up changing this a bit as the entire set-up was physically bigger than I was thinking and thus had to kind of squeeze it in.

    [​IMG]

    After changing the hose connectors around a bit and lots of test fitting as well as modifying the hard fuel lines I ran from the rear tank and mounting on the fire wall...

    [​IMG]

    I used a DPDT switch and wired it as found on a number of threads on this site...they definitely don't give much info about wiring the harness with the parts so I will see if I can add those to this post for future reference. Where to put the switch has been a big internal debate...for now I put the switch above the steering column because there was already a hole in the dash there that had a plastic cap covering it. I think I prefer having it over between the flasher and choke - there is also a capped hole there - but that hole was a bit too small for the switch and since I am not 100% sure where I want it, I don't want to drill any unnecessary holes in the dash. Also, I put the switch so that the down is for the rear tank and up is for the underseat 'forward' tank. That has also been a big internal discussion...the time spent thinking about the aesthetic and functionality for such little things!

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Feb 3, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Here is the pollack wiring diagram - for dual tank of course - and I only run the single mechanical OEM fuel pump that is after the valve so I didn't worry about any fuel pump wiring. There are some other ones on the this forum that I also used and cross-referenced - its all the same.

    http://products.pollakaftermarket.com/Asset/42-159 IS_41-revdd.pdf
     
  3. Feb 6, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Got some new rubber for the cj - went with the BFG KM2 in a 33x10.5x15. Not the best pic - but all I got for now. Dual tank system and switch also seems to be functioning well. Time to take a break from the jeep work and enjoy it as is - hopefully no unexpected repairs needed for a bit as the jeep budget is drained.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2016
    tymbom likes this.
  4. Feb 6, 2016
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    Tires look good!
    I've been struggling with the switch valve dilemma for awhile now...wish I had a good solution for the different line sizes.
     
  5. Feb 6, 2016
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    Great thread, great looking jeep.
     
  6. May 3, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    As my clutch job may turn into a bit more of a project with some different aspects - I should probably document some of the work here for my own reference and to get help from the forum.

    Due to some TO bearing noise - I pulled the T14D18OD combo and found a broken clip on the clutch spring that holds the release bearing. Not only will this be a new clutch kit, I am hopefully going to make some improvements to the D18 (like new seals, probably a new intermediate shaft and maybe some terralows). Also need to look at the T14 in more detail in the near future. Here is the whole set-up...
    [​IMG]

    So got the OD out and the planetary gear.
    [​IMG]

    Now trying to get the T14 separated from the D18. Is there anything else I need to do before pulling them apart? I removed the 5 bolts that hold the D18 to the T14 (including the one that faces forward) but its not coming apart gently. I suspect a silicone gasket is holding them together, but don't want to work it too hard in case I am missing something. Many rebuild guides (such as the FSM and Ludel's mention removing the cotter pin, nut and mainshaft output gear - but with the OD I don't think this applies as the planetary gear takes the place of the output geat - correct?

    Don't know if it actually matters with the T14/OD, but I did try to lock wire in the mainshaft (although I went behind 1st gear instead of 2nd - don't think that should matter). Now that the OD planetary is out, I don't have to worry about the lock wire anymore?
    [​IMG]
    Any help is appreciated...thanks!
     
  7. May 4, 2016
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    I do know from experience that on a T-90, if you don't wire as you have shown, there is a good chance your rollers will fall into the bottom of the case and make you cuss. If you're going to do a rebuild on the T-14 it won't matter since you'll be taking it apart anyway. I would go with new bearings and synchros if you're in this deep.

    Make sure all the bolts are out, take a dead blow hammer and tap tap tap until it comes apart. Gear oil will get everywhere even if you have drained it, so be prepared.
     
  8. May 4, 2016
    Renegade ll

    Renegade ll Member

    Thayne Wyoming
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    Wow you do very nice work James. Happy wheeling!!!
     
  9. May 4, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Thanks Julius and Chris. A few extra luv taps took care of the separation - kind of what I figured but didn't want to chance that I was missing something and risk damage. Surprising it didn't leak all over as much as I expected - did that I guess when I pulled the OD. Can't get the driveshaft flange nuts off - even with it clamped in my small vice and my breaker bar. The vice was about to pull the entire benchtop off that its attached to. So guess its time get a impact tool....

    I also pulled the clutch/pressure plate today. Will have to figure out how to get the pilot bushing out - maybe the wet bread technique, but will have to get an alignment tool first. I'll get some pics posted. Overall condition of the clutch disk looked good - not going to re-use it obviously, but might be a good learning experience to get the forum's opinion of wear just so I can learn.

    I think some have recently ordered clutches from Rock Auto. I am trying to order the Luk kit, but its unclear if it comes with the pilot bushing. Anyone know? I am awaiting email response from their customer service.
     
  10. May 5, 2016
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    The impact tool I use is the HF 1/2 drive one. Its under 80 bucks and I have used it for about 4 years. Its not perfect, but i have abused it and it has and still does work fine. Just used it yesterday for the same purpose you need it for.

    To get the pilot bushing out, I fill the center with grease fully and take a similar sized rod, bolt, etc, put it in the hole and whack it with a hammer. It will drive the bushing out, you may have to add more grease. The size does not need to be precision for this to work. I have a bucket of contaminated wheel bearing grease I use for this stuff.

    Clutch kits generally do not come with pilot bushings in my experience. You may have to get one separately.
     
  11. May 5, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    This is the plan - but I don't have anything laying around that will fit reasonably well inside the pilot bushing - so its on the list for the hardware store for this weekend as well as some new ujoints for the driveshafts. I had to go through the fun of learning about the smaller front driveshaft on the V6 CJs and the smaller associated ujoint. Also, ordered a Luk clutch from Rock Auto as well as a separate TO bearing. Should be here early next week.

    But its gonna be awhile before I can really move forward putting it back together with the D18 and T14 work to be done. Thinking I will just order the seals and gasket kits from Novak along with a new intermediate shaft for the D18. As for the T14, I am thinking I might need a new front retainer as well as a new font input shaft bearing - not sure how difficult that will be to replace.
     
  12. May 6, 2016
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    I just ordered a master rebuild kit from Novak Parts for the Dana Model 18 Transfer Case

    The intermediate shaft seems to be a problem part in other kits. Novak says theirs are awesome. I bet they will stand behind that.

    I had some questions so I called them and then ordered the parts. I saw my emailed receipt and had some more questions, emailed them back and got it answered by 2 guys within an hour. Great customer service.

    T-14 parts Parts for the Jeep T14 Transmission

    I could have gotten a full rebuild kit from Novak for my sm420. I was cheap and thought I could source all the parts cheaper. The Novak kit was complete, the other cheaper ones were not. I ended up spending hours sourcing the separate parts when I could have just bought the complete Novak kit with the customer support. I also ended up spending a similar mount of money.

    That was my experience, yours may vary.
     
  13. May 10, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    Anyone have suggestions or standard procedure for prepping or lubricating a new pilot bushing?

    FWIW - When removing the old pilot bushing, I tried grease but could get it to seal around the metal stud I was using to drive in (needed a slightly larger diameter bolt). But the white bread trick worked easy - left as much grease in the recess as possible and then use the white bread as a sort of drive and it worked flawless. If I ever did it again I might skip messy grease and just go bread.

    Off to disassemble the D18 a bit further along. I got some brass drifts to drive out the intermediate shaft.
     
  14. May 10, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    Another question - Have single lever D18: Looks like I need to removed the shift rails/rods to get the front bearing cap off. I can get the springs out, but the poppet balls (or whatever its called) don't want to come out. Just need a stronger magnet to that will fit down in there?
     
  15. May 11, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    Made It- the TC is completely disassembled. Well, technically I still have the front output bearing race that will need to be driven out and I left the fork and hi/low shift rod. Its too late and I need to go to work tomorrow a.m. This is a big win for me...

    Some pics for proof:

    [​IMG]

    Trying to keep it neat and organized
    [​IMG]
     
  16. May 11, 2016
    Focker

    Focker That's what I do, I know things and I fix stuff. Staff Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    Wow...Thems there is a lot of parts.

    Glad you're making progress. (y)
     
  17. May 11, 2016
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    Looks great.
    Link in my tag line may help you if you get stuck. My T98 and D18 rebuild. Ample photos.
     
  18. May 17, 2016
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    Well, got my Novak kit today and started putting things back together. First comment is the Novak directions are not all that helpful for a noob like me. Plus they don't follow Ludel's procedure from his rebuilders guide. So of course I got started, got a bit mixed up and forgot something. Left the damn paper gasket out that goes under the oil seals for the front and rear bearing caps. Not sure how big of a deal that is, but I think my FLAPS has the two seals in stock and might drive out the new ones (and thus trash 'em) and do it over correctly with gaskets. Of course, now that I have read some more procedures - its looks like most people wait to the end to install the seal whereas the Novak directions do it first. I already have the front output shaft bearing in, so may have to gently remove that somehow before driving out the front seal. Arrgghhhh! Guess its better than effing up something pricey!
     
  19. May 18, 2016
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    I also received the D18 rebuild kit. I only opened it to see if it came with the output bushing. It does. I read the Novak instructions and will be using several online tutorials with pictures printed up and laid out on my table when I do it. I am sure to put it together and take it apart a couple times. I do know that oil leaks from the D18 are annoying and anything that can be done to solve this is worth it. RTV on the output shaft splines before you install the yoke seems to work sometimes.
     
  20. May 18, 2016
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    Note to self, yes on rtv on splines, just wait until the 'last' time you mount and torque it down. I had mine apart several times and back together not thinking about having to clean the rtv off each time, thinking it would be the last pass...
     

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