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Drivers Seat Frame Install - Repli-Tub

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by pritchaj2000, Apr 2, 2012.

  1. Apr 2, 2012
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2007
    Messages:
    188
    Not sure how to attack this problem, so I thought I'd start a thread and see if the hive mind has any thoughts. I'm installing a new Repli-Tub to my '72. The old tub was far to far gone to repair - probably far to gone to be driving around as well.:shock:

    The issue is that the ledge in front of the drivers side rear wheel well is to narrow, and I suspect the wheel well is to long. This causes the drivers seat frame to sit to far forward, and not have enough of a ledge to bolt onto. Having it this far forward means that to have the passenger seat aligned with the drivers seat, the passenger seat frame hangs off the front of the tool box.

    I guess the option is to cut out a section of the wheel well and create a wider lip to rest the seat frame on?

    Has anyone been down this road? Thoughts?

    Drivers Seat Frame - Rear Wheel Well
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Passenger Seat Frame - Tool Box
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2012
  2. Apr 2, 2012
    zila

    zila I throw poop

    Rock Springs,...
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2003
    Messages:
    1,041
    I just measured my 75 CJ5. The lil' ledge is only 1-1/4" wide or so. The bolts are right in the front edge. The bolt in the door frame is ~13" back from the inside front of the door frame.. As I recall there is a captive nut affair underneath on mine.. If it were me i'd consider cutting a small amount off the driver side and welding it back so the right side is on the floor. Then I would drill a new hole into the wheel well and mount that side there. The passenger side looks like it just needs located so the bolts have purchase into the floor.
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2012
  3. Apr 2, 2012
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Aug 10, 2003
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    20,352
    Well, to do it right, you should move the wheel house back. But since you probably don't have the inclination or tools to do that, I'd say the tidiest approach would be to modify the seat brackets. Any changes you make to the seat brackets are going to be hidden under the seats. I think there's enough lip so that you can attach the seat there. Time for the blacksmith approach. I'd heat up the sharp bend in the seat bracket and bend it sharper to make it conform better to the slope of the wheelhouse. Then I think the bracket would scoot up to the lip enough so that the bolt hole is over the ledge. I'd make a block of steel to go under the ledge that I could drill and tap into. Then the hole could be right up against the edge of the ledge, and still hold the seat safely. Rinse and repeat for the other two locations.
     
  4. Apr 2, 2012
    roadhog304

    roadhog304 Member

    Leon Kansas
    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2007
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    285
    I had basicly the same problem after i rhino lined the inside of my tub. the thickness of the liner was messing with the bracket so i just heated it up and bent it to make it work.
     
  5. Apr 2, 2012
    Mike S

    Mike S Sponsor

    Cameron Park Ca.
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    Oct 6, 2009
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    811
    You could make up a trapezoid shaped plate, and mount it to the body, leaving a bit of the narrow side hanging over enough to fit the seat bracket to. Make it about 3 times as wide on the long side as what you need for the seat bracket to sit on, and you should be good to go. Two bolts, one either side of the seat bracket to hold the piece to the body, tab sticking out is for the seat frame bolt.
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2012
  6. Apr 4, 2012
    Texis

    Texis Member

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    Feb 21, 2011
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    185
    I would go with the heat & blacksmith approach. I would heat the flat at the 90 degree roll, bend it "up" 180 degrees, and bolt it through the wheel well. Just sayin. My glass tub has the same issue and I have been pondering this a few days. OR just drill a hole in the flat section of the frame and go straight through the fender well.

    BTW I think it looks like it has more lenght in the floor, as ALL the various brackets locations are falling short.
     
  7. Apr 5, 2012
    BLACKMGTD

    BLACKMGTD STEVE

    CANTON CT
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    Aug 19, 2006
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    110
    Another approach would be to cut a hole in the wheelhouse just big enough so the seat bracket slides through it,,, When the bracket is far enough back, it seems that there is enough "lip" to put a bolt through it to attach the seat bracket.... ..
     
  8. Apr 16, 2012
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2007
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    Took some time to get back to this, and get some photos. Ended up taking Zila approach - cut a section out of the frame rail out and reattach.

    You're right Tim, I have nether the tools, not the stamina to start moving panel parts around on this tub. I feet it would be a slippery sloop, that would result in frustration and a lot of scrap metal.

    In the end I needed to remove about 1/2 inch to get the forward portion of the frame back to the 13in mark. In the end the bolt hole is centers at 12 3/4 back. I also drilled a hole in the back facing portion of the drivers rail, to attach it to the wheel house.

    Once I got the drivers side worked out, squaring up the two frames was not to hard. Then it was time to drill a new hole in the passenger frame, and grind off the bit that ended up overhanging. And to clean it up.

    Couple of photos to show the results.

    Welded
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Test Fit
    [​IMG]
    All aligning, and ready to drill and bolt in.

    I think I'll make up some backing plates to provide a better attachment point. Don't want the seat flying out attached to a passenger. :shock:
     
  9. Apr 16, 2012
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Looks good.

    Good idea. I'd use one on the left rear driver's side mount too.
     
  10. Apr 16, 2012
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2007
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    Thanks.


    I'm thinking it would be a good idea to put a plate behind all 4 bolt points. The only ones I can't reinforce are the 2 that attach to the lip on the tub side. Maybe I can work up some thiner sheet metal to at least have a double wall. Kind of like on the original tub, just not all the way around.
     
  11. Apr 16, 2012
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    IIRC the original part under the tub side is a nearly half-round insert, shaped to fit under the lip, and threaded to fit the bolt.
     
  12. Apr 16, 2012
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
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    Jun 10, 2007
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    Yep - It looks similar to the threaded plates that they use under the metal strip for the soft top.
     
  13. Apr 18, 2012
    luckde

    luckde New Member

    Indiana
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    Oct 20, 2008
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    7
    Just curious, could someone tell me what the distance from floor to the front edge of the top of the drivers seat?


    Thanks!
     

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