Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by djbutler, Mar 2, 2008.
Looks good Don . . .
I built this rack to store the parts axles I accumulated in the last year. The third one down on the right is a Dana 44 rear axle geared in 4.88, I'm rebuilding it to go in the Jeep instead of the 3.73 set it has now. Having fun with the learning curve of setting up a Dana, getting the differential case bearings off is a bear.
Any suggestions on good non-destructive ways to get these bearings off? I have to tighten up the backlash a bit, I already tightened up the pinion preload by .010 to get it to ~7-8 In/lbs.
Might want to PM username nickmil or grannyscj. Nick (nickmil) does it for a living, Rocky (grannyscj) is pretty handy with the differentials and might have a shadetree solution.
Here is the solution I found...
This bearing puller set looks identical to the Yukon bearing puller that I read about on the Pirate 4X4 site, but about half the price.
I'm finished with the D44. So far I spent a little over $500 on tools, the 20 ton press, the bearing puller set, the dial indicator and micrometer set. That is about the same as it would have cost me to have a shop put in the new bearings and the setup labor, but I would not have learned anything that way. I built my own case spreader after looking over the pictures in the FSM. It sure made a difference in getting that differential case out of the axle housing and back in again. I was careful to measure the housing spread and keep to a maximum of .015, then relax the pressure right away.
The D27 is next. I'm pretty sure it needs bearings, and I have a Power-Lok to install in it.
I have already done the knuckle stud conversion on the D27 using some button head cap screws instead of pressing in studs. Doing it this way means I don't have to drill out the threads in the knuckle casting. I did have to find a piloted counterbore cutter to do a little spot facing on the inside of the casting, I cut just enough to clean up a square flat surface for the head of the cap screw to bottom on. I also had to clearance grind on the two bottom screw heads for clearance to the axle. I'll see about getting some pics of the finished knuckle stud job.
One little bit of progress to report: the brake pedal arm.
It was worn on the pivot so bad it rubbed the edges of the hole in the floor. I tried to find a shop that would bore it for a bushing, but no shop wanted to mess with a one-off job like that for a reasonable fee.
So, I used the torch with a #4 rosebud heating tip and brazed up the inside of the hole. Then I used a set of adjustable reamers I got at Harbor Freight to get it back to 1 inch ID plus another 4-5 thousanths for a close tolerance clearance. I probably spent 4-5 hours total messing with this thing but I'm happy with the result.
devil is in the details......good work
Don, really nice work... ever figure out how Herm's mount works?
can you tell me what paint you used for that 225?
I got it from an online vendor, the color is called Hampstead green. It is pretty close to the original color but I wouldn't recommend it or use it again. It is a lacquer based touchup paint not suitable for engines. Gasoline takes it right off.
I am im process of trying to get Eastwood to do an engine enamel color from some original paint chips I recovered. If they ever get it released I'll let everyone know.
great sheet metal work!
Hey Don, I just found your build! Now I see where all my parts are going! Great work, I will be starting my own build thread here real soon.
Yes, you're right on the seats, they are destined for this Jeep, but the tank is planned to go into the '66.
Work on the '69 Jeep is suspended for another couple of weeks until the Barn Find is back on the road. I didn't plan to do a build thread on it because all I'm doing on it for now is a brake/steeering refresh and swap out the Tcase.
Have you checked out this thread?
Yes, I had seen that thread, read it through several times. I tried some Hampstead green out of a rattle can from some online vendor, I don't recall who it was. I wouldn't order from them again though. It was expensive at $20 a 14 oz. can, and it was lacquer based with zero gasoline resistance. The color was almost right, it could have used a bit more blue to be spot on.
After seeing the paint dissolve the first time any fuel spilled on it was disapointing, so I ended up stripping it off when I had to do a valve job and repainted with Detroit diesel Alpine green. This enamel covers better, and the sandblasted valve covers don't look dull anymore like they did with the lacquer.
I got sidetracked with the yellow '70, I'm getting it ready for some trail runs before the summer season ends. I'll get the Barn Find thread updated with some new pics this weekend, then I can get back to work on the '69.
I got mine from POR-15.
Around here, they'll mix up a pint of urethane and give you a can of catalyst for about $20. I wouldn't use anything other than urethane on an engine. Rattle can no way. I hang the engine from a cherry picker, scrub it down with degreaser, rinse it with laquer thinner, then shoot 2 coats urethane, no primer. Works good, very resistant to solvents. I shot my Dauntless with primer, but wouldn't do that again as it's just too many coats and got a few flakes on the alum intake.
Progress report on the '69...
I've been working on finishing the frame. I did some weld repairs on little cracks I found, redid some booger welds on the spring hangars, then cleaned it up with the sandblaster.
The weather has been lousy lately, couldn't work outside on it. I bought some plastic sheeting and hung it up in the garage to make a temporary blasting/spray booth.
It actually works pretty well for dust control, after I got done with the sandblasting I spent about 2 hours with the shop vac picking up 8 bags of sand.
After getting the sand and dust cleaned up inside I used some of Eastwood's Extreme chassis black primer. Tomorrow I hope to be able to spray the topcoat on it.
Just amazing work.
Glad to see another update! That frame turned out fantastic!
If your blasting ends up like mine, 6 months from now you'll still find random sand in the nooks and crannies of the shop.
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