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Dana 25 Bearing

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by tripilio, Oct 28, 2018.

  1. Oct 28, 2018
    tripilio

    tripilio Proud American! 2020 Sponsor

    Miami
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    Can anyone tell me the part numbers for the kingpin bearings for a 62 CJ5 Dana 25? Thanks!
     
  2. Oct 28, 2018
    wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2019 Sponsor

    York, PA
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    Should be Timken 11590 bearing and 11520 race. Same as Dana 27. Top and bottom are identical.
     
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  3. Oct 28, 2018
    tripilio

    tripilio Proud American! 2020 Sponsor

    Miami
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    Thanks!
     
  4. Oct 28, 2018
    fyrmn

    fyrmn Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    Try rock auto. I bought a set from them last week nicely priced timken brand.
     
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  5. Oct 29, 2018
    tripilio

    tripilio Proud American! 2020 Sponsor

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    Will give it a try. Thanks!
     
  6. Oct 29, 2018
    tripilio

    tripilio Proud American! 2020 Sponsor

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    IMG_20181029_111508769-734x1305.jpg I know there is not a lot of jeepers in Miami, but any info is good to have. Maybe shipping could be an option. I found the kingpin bearings KFB brand, made in Germany at a local shop, Ivory bearings. The whole set for under 10.00. Ivor Bearings
    Hope it helps.
     
  7. Mar 6, 2019
    tripilio

    tripilio Proud American! 2020 Sponsor

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    I just finished installing the king pin bearings and torqued to spec while adding/removing shims in order to set the 12-16 pounds pull stated in the Novak guide. A couple of issues/questions: first, the knuckles at 12.5 lbs feel really tough to turn. I do not think something on bearings should be so hard to turn. Second, I used good (new) german bearings and when I turn the knucles it feels rough, as it the races were scored or with steps. What did I do wrong? IMG_20190306_182056751-459x816.jpg IMG_20190303_175833129-816x459.jpg
     
  8. Mar 6, 2019
    TIm E

    TIm E Member 2019 Sponsor

    NW Arkansas
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    Just to verify, you are putting the pull scale in the tie rod hole, correct?

    Also, best to pack the bearings with grease on final assembly. They are pretty snug with new bearings as you dont want the steering dancing around freely. The knuckles get even tighter still with the seals installed. Remember to put the felt on over the axle end before installing the knuckle.
     
  9. Mar 6, 2019
    tripilio

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    Tim E, yes, I was using the tie rod hole to put the scale hook. I packed the bearings with grease from the beginning, I did not want them to run dry. BTW, should I put any sealant in between the shims? I read I should put sealant on all the screws to prevent leakage, but if I do so to the shims wouldn't that alter the thickness/ pre-load?
     
  10. Mar 6, 2019
    TIm E

    TIm E Member 2019 Sponsor

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    Good to put a little sealant on the bolts at final assembly if the threaded holes pass all the way through (I dont recall off-hand). On a 27, shims only go on top, no real risk of leakage up there. 25 may have bottom shims too if I recall. The pin that goes in from the kingpin block is fairly snug, no real need for sealant there. Doubtful they leak much if any at all.
     
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  11. Mar 6, 2019
    Keys5a

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    A "notchy" feel is usually an indication that taper roller bearings are too tight. Try adding another thin shim to the cap.
    -Donny
     
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  12. Mar 6, 2019
    tripilio

    tripilio Proud American! 2020 Sponsor

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    Exactly! I thought that "it feels wrong". I am an industrial mechanic and bearings are supposed to run smoothly. But, back to my predicament: as is, only reaches 12.5 lbs on the pull. Adding shims will reduce the preload of the knuckle but it will get the bearings to rotate as it is supposed. What to do? I'm leaning more towards the well-being of the bearings and after I run the jeep a little, check and correct as needed. That way I prevent severe damage to the bearings. Any ideas/opinions are welcome.
     

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