D27 Disc brake swap on my 71'

Is it done? Did you test it out? I'm curious because I am thinking of doing this. Does it stop quicker with less effort or is it about the same? I tried turning the motor off and braking w/ no power assist on my pickup truck(disk). I think it was harder to to stop than my CJ with manual drums. Dying to know so I can make up my mind whether this project is worth it.

Josh

 

Do you have the brake lines hooked up to the MC the right way? The rear port goes to the front brakes and the front port goes to the rear brakes, which is exactly backwards from the way the factory dual chamber was set up. If you have it setup like it was from the factory the front disks will not have enough volume and they will not slow down or stop at all. I had to swap mine around, they work fine now.

As far as effort they stop fine without a power booster.

 

I found out my MC was bad that is why the pedal went all the way to the floor.

Very interesting quote above. I hope this is all it will take because it stops right now and I still have the front line to the front chamber etc....I was going to say after all the work I put into this I am not happy at all with the outcome. I will try reversing the lines when I get back from Pismo.

 

Just to clear up a few things.

I have been working on this every night from 8:00 pm to 11:00 pm and weekends (minimum of 6 hours) for the last 2 weeks . I get up for work at 5:00 am and may just be tired of dealing with it right now. I am supposed to leave for Pismo Beach tomorrow at 9:00 am and it still is not right......maybe burnt out. Getting pressure from my family to take it to Pismo and don't feel right driving it like it is. I will flat tow it the 3 hours to get there and just drive it on the dunes.

Thanks for letting me vent!

 

Here is a link to the thread that started that a year and half ago.
http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14411&highlight=disk+brakes
Worth reading, and full of info since everybody sorta chipped in.

 

Thanks Mcruff....it really helps to know there are others out there that ran into the same issues. I guess it won't hurt anything to putt around on the beach and hit a few dunes. I always have the low low 1st gear if I get too high up a dune and need to go down slowly.

When I get back I'll try flipping the brake lines on the MC. Maybe I'll take the tube bender and some tubing and work on it down there!

 

Hello all,
A quick update. I went to Pismo and the brakes did indeed stop me, just took an awful lot of pressure. It really wasn't a big deal because of the low, low gearing and the fact that the sand really holds you back anyway.
I am going to try flipping the brake lines this week. I also picked up a set of organic brake pads yesterday to install. I have a lot of side to side movement on the brake pedal so I am going to look for a sleeve or replacement for the mount. When I get the latest fixes completed I will let you know how it works.

 

Changed the pads over to the organic, $14.00 (Side note, the local parts dealer told me that they are hard to find nowadays because everyone is using semi metallic.) I pulled the MC back off and removed the residual valve from the back outlet and put it in the front. I still need to re-route one brake line and make a new brake line.
Since I had the MC out I decided to get rid of the brake pedal wobble. I have the pedal off and I am going to remove the shaft today. I am still debating on whether to replace the shaft or find a bushing to fix the wobble. Any thoughts?

Thanks

 

Here what you need to do for the pedal wobble.
This is how the factory wobble kit worked.
http://www.cj3a.info/tech/pedalslack.html

 

Thanks Mcruff, does anyone make a replacement shaft? I checked both Walcks and Krage's with no luck so far. I sent them both an email and am waiting to hear back. I figure they took the long weekend off. I would like to get a new shaft as mine is pretty well worn and make the bracket shown above.

 

Krage has them on there website:
http://www.jeepdoc.com/catalog/zproducts.asp?id=30
They are $17.95, Part #A495 (16750.07}, here is a pic of the part.

 

I saw that but mine does not have the tab sticking up, what is that for?

Thanks

 

I did not notice you have a 71 model, the cable operated clutch did not have the tab. It was used with the mechanically operated rod linkage. It will work fine and is actually what you need if you convert to a chain clutch instead of the cable unit. Mine also doesn't have the tab but I will eventually replace it with this one.

 

Thanks again,
I am thinking about going to the chain conversion. I built a cable/pulley conversion but the cable seems to jump off the pulley occasionally when the Jeep gets really twisted and then the cable frays. I have a sprocket and chain that I am thinking about fabbing to use. If the shaft will work I might as well order one and use the adjustment bracket also.

 

Hi Mcruff,
One more question re: the replacement rod if you don't mind. Mine has a key on the clutch end and a groove in the clutch rod, does the replacement have a slot or key? I guess I could ask Krage's!

Thanks

 

I'm not sure!!!!
Better off asking Krage.

 

Got the replacement rod on Friday afternoon, Krage's has been great to deal with. I ordered it Sun, went out Monday....good folks.

Anyway it does have the slot for the key. I put it all back together tonight and there is no more wobble. Hopefully I can still drive it.

 

Anyone know if this is the right P/N for the AA Chain kit?

716640 $138.00.

 

Thats the part number from the cj3b board.

 

My Dad got me the AA chain for Christmas. The bolt that connects to the tab on the clutch shaft seems way too big. Do I need to use a smaller bolt? It has a heim joint and I am not sure it will work with a smaller bolt.
Thanks,