D Buyak Cj5 Build Thread

Hey yall!

I will post a somewhat chronological overview of my project here. I will have a thread specific to fabricating the body as well.

This first image is of the first time I've ever seen the Ol lady without her top on. Hard top that is.

The hard top is mostly solid with only a huge depression in the top. From a tree my brother assured me wouldn't go towards the jeep when we cut it down.... At least the trunk missed the jeep or there would simply be no jeep. Just a very large crushed soda can.

 

My wife was skeptical but while our kids watched (with the distracted enthusiasm typical to young children) we pulled the sad jeep into its new home.

We tried pushing it but there just wasn't enough traction or muscular force between us.

Had to break out the PASSAT work horse to get the Jeep on level ground. Then my wife strong armed it in the driveway while I got distracted.

 

Here is Das Jeep in her new home.

First things first. PB BLASTER came out in force!

 

Excellent start. I see the back of the body made it easy to view the tires from the rear. Just a wee bit of rust. My CJ6 wasn't very rusty when I got it. Because it was mostly made of plywood. Lol Seriously though, good luck on your project. I always find it cool when there's an attachment to a project, like owning it a long time or something like that.

 

I removed debris,
plant matter,
garbage (has Sat next to our fire pit as a storage shed for years. Gotta love dat hard top),
windshield frame (whole bottom is rotted out BAD),
And miscellaneous sections of wood and metal that was stitched, woven and simply placed throughout the tub to "Sure it up".

I was going to circle the rust holes in the above photo but it would have just been a border around the whole photo.

 

I've had it since 2014 when my father upgraded to a cj3b for his plowing needs.

I've known this jeep my whole life as the slow vehicle that somehow started every winter with full choke for a long time, let the tyranny warm up so you can shift, and then go plow! Other than that we filled it up with rocks or fire wood and that's it.

I got my brothers hand me down jeep, a 56 cj5 when I was around 16 I think. Same f134 etc, very simular.

 

Removing everything I can think of that will hinder the tub removal.

For some reason I decided taking the dashboard off would be easier to taking all the wiring and such off. The nuts and bolts ended up being in good enough shape and location where I could get everything off separately.

Plus there are bolts buried on the ends of the dashboard I got stuck on.

Steering wheel off, fenders off, removable floor panels off... I'm sure there was more.

I'm actually marking hardware and putting into bags for the most part. I've learned from past mistakes, somewhat....

 

I had half of a double pulley system (purchased by me and my brothers to move logs to build a cabin, didnt ever use it in that manner), so I built the bottom moveable pulley. I had two random pulleys that I was able to mount on a 3/4 rod and before you know it I had harnessed physics to reduce the force needed to lift loads to 1/4 of the actual weight!

I will hopefully remake it out of metal so that I don't kill myself but it did the job here. Also the rope is very frayed...

Don't judge.

 

Lifted the body up as high as my travel would allow. Only had one more pesky bolt holding It down that I had missed. Miscalculated the center of gravity and added a ratchet strap to help lift the rear up a little more.

Did this whole removal alone. Yes I am an idiot, but a determined one. I had music to keep me company.

Once the tub was raised I was forced to address the fact that I could not roll the engine and frame out from under it like I had planned. Not high enough to clear.

I didn't take pictures of the next part because I was juggling ropes and emotions like diced tomatoes in the dark.

I rotated the tub 90 degrees and put a 2x8 against the f134 to make a ramp down the side. I slowly inch by inch lowered the tub down and slid the fire wall down the 2x8. I manually moved the firewall over the rear tire once it got that low.

Once the tub was mostly on the ground I moved all my straps and ropes out and gave it a few tugs. Dragged it to the side and job done!

 

Hah, seeing the body (or not seeing the body). I can see why you needed to strip it down to the frame!

 

Once apart and cleaned up a bit the scouring begins!

Broken frame at shackle mount, whole rear highly thinned out. One or two holes.

I like the idea brought forth to me about boxing just the rear and tying it all to a solid bumper.

 

I plan on utilizing the still intact curved jeep edges and mostly solid firewall to build my own custom yet stock looking (Stocky?) tub.

The way I look at it everything hard to fabricate it still either solid or needs simple repair. And my dream Jeep project has ALWAYS been to customize the tub.

Call me crazy. I like it.


Oh! And even crazier I am considering adding some length to the rear. Less than 10 inches, a want for the project is to have a removable bench seat in back. With room for gas can, tools etc . I don't want to stretch the wheel base, just add a little length since I'm already basically building the whole back anyways.

 

I am thinking to use this square tubing to build bumpers. The main issue I see with it is weight. Side walls are either 1/4 or 3/16. It's heavy.

I salvaged these from a moving crate used to transport a 3/4 of a million dollar machine to my work. I have enough to do 4 total bumpers OR utilize in frame work. Somehow.

 

That’s an awful rusty tub. Not sure I’ve seen one that bad resurrected.

good luck. I’m following.

 

Whew. Been a long time.

Unfortunately the jeep hasent been my main concern for a while.

Shortly after my last post I pulled the head off and found heavy cylinder wear. When this was running it was chugging oil so fast I had to clean the spark plugs every half hour.

Got mighty discouraged because i can't put much into the jeep for funds. I measured cylinder 1 with the piston still in to get an idea of the wear.

I have a 3.130 diameter evenly above the piston.

Much of the top is worn to 3.136. I was surprised to Measure the worst wear across 10 o'clock to 4 o'clock. (Diagonally)

I would expect the wear to be across 12 o'clock and 6.

 

Hope it seems has found me.

I have been told of two options for honing a cylinder at home. Both options had me skeptical.

First is using one of them cylinder hones with the three stones. But that isn't really going to help without of round. It's really only going to smooth out the walls. If I put a lot of effort into it it could help with taper.

The second option was those hones that are the abrasive ball things. I don't know how this was even an option. There's no control on keeping the wall straight. After some related research I found that this style hone is ONLY for putting hatch marks in a newly bored cylinder.

Bad options for the condition of my cylinders.

BUT...
I stumbled on a much better hone design. Im a tool and die maker and have a lot of time on a Sunnen precision honing machine. It has a very controlled process for the stone that allows holes to be straightened etc. I happened to see that sunnen does in fact sell portable hone tools that might work for me.

Of course it seems to be something I go through a dealer or something, and no price listed. I tried emailing a place in the UK but it wasent a valid email.

I shall keep searching.

 

Don’t let that engine slow you down. There’s lots of engines and parts out there. (I gave one away a couple years ago). Guys here will help you find what you need.

 

That engine is somehow still alive. Many thanks.

You can use a ball hone to deglaze a bore. Whoever said different is mistaken. If you need to take the bore to the next oversize, sitting there all day with an adjustable hone will take hours, and not to mention you'll still have to keep an eye on the taper and out of round because of stone wear.

We have a Sunnen portable hone at work that is mainly used for touching up main bores. It works fine but for the money you'll spend on tooling, it couldn't hurt to have it bored and honed at a shop.

Cylinder Honing
Goodson Tools & Supplies
Home • Silver Seal Products Co

 

73 cj5
You are painfully correct....