Claudia Jean A 1967 CJ6 V6 Dauntless

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by jwmckenzie, Mar 25, 2012.

  1. Feb 19, 2017
    jwmckenzie

    jwmckenzie Sponsor Sponsor

    Boston, MA
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    Thanks Alan,

    Bit of a set back today, loaded the pistons and while torqueing the rod bolts -- I had the one (the last one) that wouldn't torque to 38 ft-lbs (torque range is 30-40). Glad I found this now, but kicking myself for not getting new ones, now I wait until I get some new rod bolts. A call to ARP tomorrow, so I can get the right kit... and so it goes.
     
  2. Feb 25, 2017
    jwmckenzie

    jwmckenzie Sponsor Sponsor

    Boston, MA
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    Two steps back,
    Removed the pistons and rods from the block yesterday, Removed the rod brgs and rings,

    One Step forward
    Took the rods and new bolts to the machine shop to "re-condition" the rods with the new bolts.
    New rod bolts turned out to be ARP 132-6001
     
  3. Mar 5, 2017
    jwmckenzie

    jwmckenzie Sponsor Sponsor

    Boston, MA
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    Finally progress this weekend. Retrieved the rods from the Machine shop, fitted them to the crank, they all plasi-gauged at 0.015" Which is a bit better than last time, important as well.. the new bolts torqued up to 45 ft-lbs, as recommended.

    Installed the timing gears w/dots lined up, chain, and tensioners.

    [​IMG]

    Installed the fuel pump eccentric front facing forward (that's the problem that started this re-build), as designed.

    [​IMG]

    Installed the front cover, put the heads on, and torqued them down.

    [​IMG]

    Tomorrow: Install the pushrods, prime the oil pump, and button up the rockers.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2017
  4. Mar 5, 2017
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok Sponsor

    Tulsa, OK
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    You're doing excellent work, keep it up!
     
  5. Mar 6, 2017
    jwmckenzie

    jwmckenzie Sponsor Sponsor

    Boston, MA
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    Put the Pan and harmonic balancer on today,

    [​IMG]

    Searched around town for a oil pump priming tool, passed on the one at AutoZone for $30. Finally ordered one from JEGS, w/shipping $17, but a few days away.

    Got the push rods installed and snugged up the rocker arm assemblies. Off to the machine shop to talk with him about checking to make sure the lifters are working properly. When the lifter is off the top of the cam lobe, the pushrod is not loose, but right at the top of the lifter's range. Maybe that is right, don't know. We will see, I expected it to be more engaged in the lifter.

    I am a bit surprised as he left the valve stems higher than FSM indicates: Normal height of the stem is 1.925" above spring seat surface.

    Gotta get this thing ready for paint... Wednesday looks to be above 50 degrees. Missed last week when we got up into the 60's.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2017
  6. Mar 8, 2017
    jwmckenzie

    jwmckenzie Sponsor Sponsor

    Boston, MA
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    We climbed above 50 today, and I rolled it out into the sunshine and painted it.

    [​IMG]

    This motor had a date stamp of April 28, 1967. It had several pieces with original paint on it, so went to the paint store and had them match the original. This is pretty close to the Hampstead Green I painted last time, but without the metallic.

    Engine Color - Again

    In the "Color - Again" thread you can see the valve cover that came with this engine that had the original paint.

    Now just gotta leave it alone. In this weather will likely take at least 10 days to cure.

    Time to clean the shop.
     
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  7. Mar 9, 2017
    txtoller

    txtoller Member

    Weatherford, TX
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    Looks great!
     
  8. Mar 9, 2017
    Focker

    Focker Rust Never Sleeps Staff Member Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
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    X2
     
  9. Mar 12, 2017
    jwmckenzie

    jwmckenzie Sponsor Sponsor

    Boston, MA
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    So as I am finishing up the engine, I decided to take the T-case out and try to stop the leaks.

    When I got the Jeep the Transmission was full of mud, oil, and water, so I re-built the T-90 the first time around. Just like the engine, I was hopeful that the D18 would be OK for my purposes, and as far as running it is kinda noisy but works pretty well. I am however, tired of the drip pans and cardboard. Last year I had to add a pint of gear lube, when I got it ready for the summer.

    So I dropped the all the gears and housings out this afternoon, using my engine hoist as described in thread on this forum.

    It would have been better to do this from the Passenger side, if you try this at home.

    [​IMG]

    The eye-bolt screwed into the transmission on the passenger side rear hole was a great balance point. I had to remove the bell housing after I got it on the floor, because it was too tall to go out under the frame.

    Here it is. Took me about 2 1/2 hours. Much easier than trying to work it out on a floor jack.

    [​IMG]
     
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  10. Nov 21, 2017
    Heep38

    Heep38 New Member

    NJ
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    Hi nice work, did you install a cam button on the end of the camshaft?
     
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  11. Nov 22, 2017
    jwmckenzie

    jwmckenzie Sponsor Sponsor

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    No, I didn't neither engine I have had one.

    Jon.
     
  12. Nov 24, 2017
    Heep38

    Heep38 New Member

    NJ
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    Thanks, I'm trying to decide if I want to install one in the engine I'm going through.
    I have hade some excessive fuel pump eccentric wear on a freshly rebuilt engine with about 2000 miles on it. Any thoughts?
    Gary
     
  13. Nov 24, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
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    Not a bad Idea if you have it apart........keeps the cam from coming forward and wearing out the chain & also eliminates wear to the front cover..
     
  14. Nov 24, 2017
    Heep38

    Heep38 New Member

    NJ
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    Thanks for your input on the cam bumper.
    Any thought on why my fuel pump eccentric is wearing?
     
  15. Nov 25, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
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    Maybe lubrication...........Both parts , the fuel pump and pump eccentric should be equally hard........If you have it apart replace the fuel pump and eccentric at the same time.........but there can be a a lack of lube in that area.
     
  16. Nov 25, 2017
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member Sponsor

    exploring the...
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    Was the eccentric on the right way?
     
  17. Nov 26, 2017
    Heep38

    Heep38 New Member

    NJ
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    Lack of lube is the most popular suspect so far, but I don't know how get more lube to it. I suspected my new fuel pump of making noise and inspected it about 1000 miles ago, where the eccentric and fuel pump showed some wear. I changed the fuel pump, just in case. After an additional 1000 miles, both are showing additional wear. Oil was evident in the timing case.
    The eccentric was correctly installed, and I used assembly grease during the initial build and the second pump.

    I have returned the eccentric to TA performance for their review, we'll see what they think.

    Thanks again for your thoughts.
     
  18. Nov 26, 2017
    Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor Sponsor

    Northern NJ
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    Good luck finding an eccentric it took me a very long time.
     
  19. Nov 26, 2017
    Heep38

    Heep38 New Member

    NJ
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    Finding the eccentric should be the easy part, TA Performance has them, (or at least they had them a few months ago). Paying for another one is the hard part (another $80.)
    I have been looking for a jeep Dauntless oil pump cover. The after market covers are not clocked correctly, which makes the oil filter point more towards the front which interferes with the radiator.
     
  20. Nov 26, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

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    Are you talking about the complete timing chain & oil pump cover?
     

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