Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by Jeffyjeep, Jun 10, 2019.
Totally understand. Go for it and enjoy!!
This piqued my interest, because previously I understood that the J-trucks have a long enough wheelbase (and rear prop shaft length) that there was no special axle needed for the Quadratrac. Supposedly the same axle was used with the D20 and the Quadratrac. Well, looking at the parts book, generally that's true, but there was one year (1979, last year for the Borg-Warner Quadratrac) when the J20 Quadratrac got a special Dana 60-3 axle, and only with a 3.73 or 4.10 axle ratio. There were 3.54s available, but they got the same axle as the D20 in 1979. So those offset axles will be really scarce.
I would point out to the OP that this is a pickup truck width axle at 65.9" so all of your tire would be outside the factory fender width.
That's interesting. Thanks for the info. I had no idea they were that rare; I had two of them. One I re-sold, and the other I rarrowed the long side to match the short side and used a second short shaft for a custom-narrowed FF D60 using stock parts. It ended up pretty close to the width of the wagoneer D44 I used up front with 3/4 ton outers (to retain 8-lug bolt pattern). 3.73 gears.
They won't be. Your T86 will go poof.
Being a wheeler in rocky ground, the build I have on the Red '50 is my 'ideal' build for a flattie. I do have 2 sets of Waggy D44 axles that I'm going to throw under a build one day as well. I would also say that after the front axle (and you'll note I have a D30) your tranny will be your weak point. Also if your really going to crawl, the ratio is too high for that and you should consider a truck 4 speed (SM465 or T18 are my options).
The D30 up front, FF D44 in back with OX lockers have been bullet proof since I put them on. I have a high horse 225 that was built with Kenne Bell parts for the Pikes Peak Hill climb and have since put EFI on it. All that with the SM465/D18 and OD makes it a great bullet proof rig. I've taught several 'teenagers' (my 3 boys and 2 nieces) to wheel with it and even they haven't broken anything on it - so far... However, one of my grandson's shows promise
Not saying this is the best build for you, but I have found that the NT 30 up front and flanged 44 out back make a great combo. I have used both the T15 and T 18 and depending on the intended use, each works great for that use. T15 behing a 4.3 and T 18 behind a Dauntless. Right now, I am in the process of putting in a centered flanged 44 behind a Dana 20 with Terra low, behind a 225 Odd fire. I'm using a Commando 44 centered rear. I have run 35 Mud Terrains with the T15 and 4.3. Didn't beat the snot out of it, but wheeled it in tough spots. The 30 NT held up with out breaking with an ARB locker and alloy shafts. Within the next year or so, I'm thinking about NT 30 and 44 in a 3b, with even fire 231, with super 18 and terra low. So you can see it varies for me around certain axles and engine combo's, but kinda close to the same. Good luck and good job teaching the youngsters on your Jeep.
But trust me, if it were not for sake of ease of finding, I would use a narrowed 44 up front. But to build or buy one done , just is not in my time frame or wallet.
If you want strength and some extra width, then you can do a waggy 44 front with chevy 8 lug outers and then find a dana 60 and shorten one side to the waggy width to work with the offset tcase. friend did this in a cj-5 w/dana 18 tcase.
Working on a CJ2A on a CJ5 frame for my daughter’s trail rig, has 225/18 and Wagoneer axles with 5.38 gears. I have built my share of Jeeps and my current trail rig is a highly modified 69 Commando with narrowed Dana 60/14 bolt, ARBs, 39” Michelin XZLs, race built EFI 4.3, Jeep 999 and upgraded Dana 300 with 4:1 gears.
Dana 44s are all you need unless you are going with really big tires. My Commando started out with a narrowed J truck 44 in front (comes out about same width as Wagoneer 44). Most FSJ rear 44 axles are offset to the passenger side because they used a coffin style fuel tank under the driver’s side (the later FSJ AMC 20 was centered). Truck rears are wider than Wagoneer and WT Cherokees. WT fronts are the same J truck or Cherokee. Forget the J20 Dana 60, same size shafts as a 44.
FSJ 44’s are plentiful and cheap. Narrow a WT (4” off long side) and you get the perfect width. Why WT? Distance from spring to tire is greater than a Wagoneer axle, which is important at full turn (tires don’t hit the springs). Outboarding the springs does not change this. Works great for 33-37” tires. If you want to be a little wider still, start with a GM front 44 (about 2” wider per side than WT FSJ)
We are trying to decide between a TH350/18/Warn OD and a World Class T5/4:1 Dana 300 (I have both setups) for her rig. Really prefer wheeling an auto but the Dana 300 with 4:1 is really nice for crawling.
Consider a non power steering saginaw higher than the typical 4-5 turns lock to lock. Last Summer I spent so many hours on a a power steering setup and never got past getting it all to test fit. I had an odd-ball (early 60's skylark iirc) manual gear in my shed-O-parts which was clean and -- non leaking (most important). Small, light, easy to bolt up! With a stock Jeep steering wheel, it turns REALLY nice! Probably not as good results if you are using a smaller aftermarket steering wheel. I think it mine is 6.5 turns vs most are in the 4-5 range.
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