Build - 1970 CJ5

Still don't have the jeep back. The water pump I bought was longer and hit the radiator...

Spent a little while in the garage today. I cleaned the D30 with a wire wheel and got the knuckles off. Not sure whether to buy the OTC ball joint press or just see about taking the knuckles to a shop and seeing if I can have someone else do it. I thought about renting one or whatever through advance so maybe I will look into that.

Knuckles and Diff cover off. Gears looks good to me, don't think I'm going to break it down any further than this as it's beyond my current ability. I don't want to mess it up and the plan is to install ARB air lockers and regear in the future.

 

Jeep is back home, couldn't stand it being gone. But, It was nice to have someone with more knowledge than myself tell me what needed to be replaced, why, and even though I didn't do it myself, I was able to learn for next time. Hardest part for me is determining the problem/what it needs. If someone told me to replace "insert problem here", I could do that I feel. Anyways... Jeep is running really good, extremely quiet and idling great. It runs much smoother than it did before. So I finally got it out on a good drive 2 days ago, it ran 180-190 all the way up until I got on a main road running 55-60. The temp slowly started to creep up which I figured was normal but it wouldn't stop creeping. When it got to 220 I slowed down and it took a while for it to come down. I'm going to double check the obvious when I get home tomorrow, with the engine hot I could check the coolant and I got busy around the house. I'll make sure it's full and let it warm up to make sure there isn't any air and give it one more whirl. If nothing is better, I guess I'll have to replace that new mustang radiator with something better. That'll push back the work on the D30.

 

What brand water pump are you running? I was having this same exact problem. I was running the Flow Kool water pump, when I went back to the original pump my problem of over heating at speed went away.

 

I am not sure on the brand of this one, it's just a standard replacement that was found as the high flow pump I bought was too big.

I actually placed an order for a larger aluminum radiator yesterday with 2 rows of 1" tubes. I'm hopeful that's the issue but I know where to look if it's not! Thanks!

 

don't buy the otc ball joint press...autozone rents those out. even though i really dislike them the loan a tool program is awesome. the nice thing is that you get your money back or keep the thing. the autozone here had a bent press and had a heck of a time putting in a u-joint but made due with what i had and made it work.

 

Thanks! Do you know if you have to purchase the ball joints from them to rent it?

 

nope if all you want to do is rent the tool then rent the tool. you get all your money back when you return the tool. just check to make sure it's going to press straight before you leave the store. you may have to use some makeshift cups or spacers to get things to work but maybe because i was using a friend of mines when i did the ball joints on my 30 and he didn't have all the cups.

 

Great!

 

So reviving this old thread since I'm back.

Not much has happened to the CJ since the baby has been here. Ended up putting all the parts for the power steering conversion and the Dana 30 in the corner. When I got to the point of having to get a new manifold for the drivers side and then a new steering column I felt like I would be changing the jeep too much. So that's on hold indefinitely.

It hasn't been driven much and has fallen culprit to a bad battery, and then 2 days ago it died in the publix parking lot and would not start back up. After spending about 30 minutes doing everything I could it still wouldn't fire. New cap and rotor that I carry didn't help, looked at every wire and bypasses the cool resistor out of desperation. Still nothing. Not even gas pouring in the carb would get a fire. Ended up being a bad coil and I did not have a spare. Shop I got it towed to had one laying around and it fired right up. Made for an interesting day.

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Still having issues with my brakes, can't seem to get them to work right and pedal goes to the floor minus the last like 4 inches where I finally get pressure and a little bit of braking... can't seem to figure it out. I'm over it now and will be ripping everything out and going with a firewall master cylinder. Anyways, not much has changed and this is how it sits today. Mostly in the garage.
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Nice Jeep...........Sorry you had some problems & reservations about future upgrades..........we all have been at that point of whether to improve or not ..........Keep it stock or make it better which of course is your ultimate decision.
Power steering can be allot of work to install but in the end it is a much appreciated add on especially if you have large tires...............that old column can be re-used by modifying the inner shaft and adding a bearing or bushing at the other end once it exits the firewall...........Brake problems can normally be handled by just following the basics of fluid hydraulics and ratios.

 

Really nice Jeep!

With respect to the brakes --- I had a hard time getting my 1970 brakes adjusted at first. Pedal went to the floor until I got the shoes adjusted way out toward the drums. If you still have the brake self adjusters working, backing it up in reverse and applying the brakes (many times) helps to get the final adjustment of the brake shoes.

 

That is one beautiful Jeep

 

I planned on keep the stock column and as I got further into it, I don't see a way. The new manifold would dump to the rear to allow room for the steering shaft and would looks like it needs to go right we're the column exits the firewall currently at the Ross Steering box. I have almost every part minus the manifold and the column was the straw that broke the camels back on that. Steering box mount from mcruff and all.. one day I'll get to it.


The brakes are like my arch nemesis. I swear I have tried and tried, I have bled, the brakes have been bled over and over, bought a vacuum bleeder and still nothing. (Returned it after no improvement). I have no idea. There are no leaks, everything was new and rebuilt. I think it has to do with the push rod and it's position in relation to the MC on the frame. Just don't think it is square and maybe that's how air is getting into the system? Not sure but it's going away haha.

Today I ordered a universal firewall mounted master cylinder with a brake pedal assembly. I'll have to cut the pedal arm and move it over to the current brake pedal position as some others have done.

Also btw, haven't had any shackle inversions yet! The rear shackle hasn't straightened up like I would have liked but hasn't been an issue yet so I'm holding out!

 

Thanks! I have adjusted them several times just out of desperation and it seemed to help. I made them tighter than they were supposed to be probably. It helped for a short time. They have the auto adjusters and I'm not an expert on drums but it seems like they would loosen up after driving some.

 

Yep I noticed that shackle............if you ever back into a curb or rock.........it may flip.

And that factory exhaust manifold could be an issue for being in the way............headers will work........and the column can be modified. You could also do the front dump exhaust manifold on that side with the crossover which would take the high power steering mount..............not my favorite choice but........there are options!

 

brake issue sounds like master cylinder . is it new
that jeep looks great

 

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Only pictures I have at the moment.. anything seem out of place?

 

MC was new... everything worked correctly on it during the bench bleeding..