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Build - 1970 CJ5

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FireFighter0817, Oct 13, 2013.

  1. Oct 13, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2013
    Messages:
    312
    I have received tons of help from everyone identifying the two jeeps I have. Since I know what I have now, I figured I would start a build thread. Still driving home from picking up jeep #2. It's going to be a fresh start, getting away from jeep #1 that turned out to be modified to hell. Here are some pictures of the jeep that's getting a resto-mod, they are posted in the other thread but would like to have them here also.

    Where it sat, some parts were sold off of it before we got to it.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    On the trailer, 7 hour drive each way to get it, left at 3am
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Dauntless V6, not seized but not running, air cleaner taken off for trip as hood would not latch.
    [​IMG]

    Floors are really rusted on each side, completely gone under the toolbox and several holes under fuel tank spot, rear floor is is fair shape though.
    [​IMG]

    The other really bad rust area is the rear valance and rear crossmember
    [​IMG]

    Some other misc pictures
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Plan on taking the body off tonight, leaving the family farm tomorrow and would like to take the frame back down to central florida with me. The frame looked decent from what I saw so far, I will obviously know more when the body comes off. I would like to get it sandblasted but I feel I can git r done with tons of elbow grease, grinding, and lots of time, which I have. The body will be sandblasted for sure, but that will be down the road a ways. Gotta work out of a garage in the city, can't bring it all at once. I'll repair the problem areas on the body at that point.

    I already have a skyjacker 4in suspension lift with hydro shocks, I'll get that on back home, along with new stainless fuel lines, brake lines, rebuilding the brakes, cleaning up the engine, and working on the cross members and bumpers .

    Very excited about this one, it's got a lot of rust issues, but hopefully nothing beyond repair. I'll get some more pictures tonight/tomorrow when the body comes off. Always open for suggestions also, this is personally my first jeep, although we have several in the family, including a late model cj which we put some work into, it's going to be a learning experience for me. If you see something please let me know. Thanks again to everyone who has helped already.


    Britt


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  2. Oct 13, 2013
    piffey263

    piffey263 Active Member

    Sacramento, CA
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2008
    Messages:
    1,212
    A factory service manual is super helpful, I found the Haynes manual just made things worse because nothing was correct.

    Looks like a good start.
     
  3. Oct 13, 2013
    curtcanada

    curtcanada L, L, and the POH! Sponsor

    Western Slope, CO
    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2008
    Messages:
    372
    x2
     
  4. Oct 14, 2013
    Clinton_73

    Clinton_73 New Member

    B.C. Canada
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2008
    Messages:
    8
    Wow. How many leaves per pack on those springs? I have a '73 that I'm doing now and it has 10 leaves. Very rough ride compared to the '81 that I used to own.
     
  5. Oct 15, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2013
    Messages:
    312
    I have a factory service manual, haven't used it yet but I heard they were great to have throughout my research here on earlycj5, it does seem very detailed.

    We counted but I forgot, I think was 8, and my phone won't load the pictures right now.

    We got the body off Monday around noon, then quickly loaded the frame with the engine/tran, fenders, hood, and grill onto the trailer as I had to hit the road and head south. I got pictures of the body coming off, but got in a hurry and didn't take any pictures of the frame by itself. Hope to get some pictures of it up within a couple days. It's been a long past few days and I need some time to rest. Gonna get back to working on it in a few days.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Looks like a lot of work! Looking forward to it though.


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  6. Oct 21, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2013
    Messages:
    312
    Quick post, been very busy for the past week, going to get started on the frame here in a couple days.

    Edit: frame stamped 364865. After some looking, it's a 1970 for sure. Probably rolled off the line in March or April, of 1970.

    Will be posting pictures when I start on the frame, no access to sandblasting so I am going to be taking a wire brush and lots of elbow grease to clean up the frame. Will use the electrolysis setup I learned from another thread for small parts that I can take off..

    Any other advice on how to get a rusty frame cleaned up??? The rust is mostly surface rust when it comes to the frame.


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    Last edited: Oct 23, 2013
  7. Oct 21, 2013
    68BuickV6

    68BuickV6 Well-Known Member

    Chino, CA.
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2012
    Messages:
    2,013
    I would search the site, either through it's own search engine or google site searching (site:earlycj5.net [search term with no brackets]). It's been fairly well covered. Wire wheeling, cleaning chemically, sand blasting, etc.
     
  8. Oct 24, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2013
    Messages:
    312
    I did some initial clean-up on the frame yesterday, spent pretty much all day on it. Got it off the trailer and did a lot of scraping and wire brushing by hand. Later in the day I took a drill and wire wheel to some spots to see what else I could get off. It's in much better shape than I thought. Only 2 minor cracks in the front end, just in front of the front crossmember on each side. The frame looked rusty but there wasn't any places where it rusted through or thinned really at all.. Some pitting in a couple spots pretty bad but I'm definitely pleased thus far.

    Took the old rusty shocks off and some of the old wires and fuel lines that were left on, will get the engine/transmission/transfer case out soon, then remove the axles and get them cleaned up. Hopefully all of that will be done within the next couple weeks. I want to get it back into a roller pretty soon. I plan on using the Eastwood rust converter that I can brush on once I get the frame more cleaned up, then painted, axles as well. From the searches I have done it seems like people were pleased with it.

    Here are some of the pictures I took yesterday.

    Before
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    After some cleaning
    [​IMG]





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    Last edited: May 19, 2014
  9. Oct 27, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2013
    Messages:
    312
    Alright, made some progress over the last couple of days. I changed my mind about using the rust converter on the frame, after more cleaning on the frame, a lot of its down to bare metal with pitting from the rust, not bad but I decided to go with por 15 as I read about some problems using the Eastwood rust converter on bare metal. Bought all the prep stuff and a quart of grey por 15. I'll paint it black after with either an enamel or an undercoating, still undecided there.

    Got the engine/trans/transfer case out, that was interesting... Other than that, the rear axle is out, rear leaf springs are ready to come out, they are unbolted but the rear bolts need to be hammered out, it was late and didn't want to wake the entire neighborhood up, so I left them for tomorrow. The front axle is almost ready to come out, I need to pick up a tool tomorrow to release the steering linkage and then I can drop that.

    I'll start with the axles, sand them down and paint them before I move on to the frame. Once all the painting is done, it'll be on to the brakes and brake lines.

    Here are the pictures up to now.

    The cleaning update:
    Now

    [​IMG]

    Still have more to do before it's ready for paint but it's getting there! It would be so much easier with a sandblaster.....

    Some basic cleanup on the engine, a handheld wire brush and a shop vac
    [​IMG]

    Engine coming out, hope I didnt do it too wrong haha, it was my first and it made it, that's a success to me. I did some looking around on other threads and got good info on how to secure it but I was still very nervous. And it did a 180 on me once it cleared the frame, a very slow and controlled 180 but still increased the pucker factor.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Little bit of degreasing and spraying off while it was out of the garage
    [​IMG][​IMG]


    Rear axle out
    [​IMG]

    It's coming along, hope I haven't been putting too much info here and scaring anybody off, my family and friends have the link to this and just like to keep the interested ones in the loop, they are a few hours away and it's easier to post pictures here than to send them to everyone!


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    Last edited: May 19, 2014
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  10. Oct 27, 2013
    68BuickV6

    68BuickV6 Well-Known Member

    Chino, CA.
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2012
    Messages:
    2,013
    No such thing! We're suckers for pictures! We kinda like CJs you know. ;)


    I'm really looking forward to this build!
     
  11. Oct 27, 2013
    CJ Ollie

    CJ Ollie Member

    Lincoln, NE
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2012
    Messages:
    90
     
  12. Oct 28, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2013
    Messages:
    312
     
  13. Oct 28, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2013
    Messages:
    312
    Haha awesome! Thanks


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  14. Oct 28, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2013
    Messages:
    312
    Well so far today I have made a trip to my FLAPS. I needed like gojo and a degreaser.. Left with 2 bags of stuff... Hate that. But I picked up a pickle fork to remove the front tie rods. I also saw some evapo rust.. Saw some posts about it and figured what the heck, I'm a risk taker, I like living life on the edge, so I bought it...

    I removed the leaf springs and shackles completely this morning and put the axles to the side. I'm going to start with the axles either tonight or tomorrow. I'll finish cleaning them up and painting them first before I move on to the frame. I'll take the diff covers off and see what's going on in there after cleanup.

    Currently I am soaking the u-joint clamps for the axles in the evapo rust along with the u-bolt plates for the springs.. I degreased them first and took a wire brush to them. Gonna let them soak for a good while and see what happens. I'll paint them with rust reformer and a top coat or two of black enamel when they are done.

    Here are some pictures of whats going on

    Old leafs
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Leaf spring bolts and old shackles, -1 since I can't get 2 bolts out of leafs.
    [​IMG]
    U-joint clamps
    [​IMG]
    Degreasing
    [​IMG]
    In the evapo rust, which looks a lot like clr, even same bottle shape
    [​IMG]
    U-bolt plates
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


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  15. Oct 28, 2013
    numbersix

    numbersix Newberg, Oregon

    Oregon
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2012
    Messages:
    319
    Looking good! Your jeep looks a lot like mine when I starting working on it. If you have some really rusty bolts / parts, I'd highly recommend a product called "The Works!" It's a toilet bowel cleaner and can be found at most hardware stores. I use a 50/50 mix of water and only use enough to cover the parts in a small plastic container. You'll need gloves and whatever you do, don't use an aluminum container. It will melt into goo and I'm sure the fumes can't be good for you either...:D
     
  16. Oct 28, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2013
    Messages:
    312
    I will check that out!


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  17. Oct 31, 2013
    FireFighter0817

    FireFighter0817 B. Clark

    Mount Dora, FL
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2013
    Messages:
    312
    [​IMG]

    All I can say is wow... The stuff works great, here is after evapo rust
    [​IMG]

    And then the other plates after the works, also the manifold clamps.
    [​IMG]

    Not sure If it's clear how rusty they were in this picture...
    [​IMG]


    Anyways, stuff works great, thank you for recommending it! Much much cheaper. I am curious however as to why the metal is smoking after I take it out though haha. Some serious off-gassing.. Not sure if you can see the smoke here..[​IMG]

    In other news, the frame is very close to being painted. Only a little more prep... The por 15 arrived yesterday, hope to have frame painted by this weekend possibly. Depends on if I get around to taking these bumpers and winch plate off, which are all welded on. New bumpers are on order also, expecting them in around a month since the guy I ordered them from needs to make them.. Anyways that's enough for now. A couple more pictures won't hurt..

    What most of the frame now looks like
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]




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    Last edited: May 19, 2014
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  18. Oct 31, 2013
    CJ Ollie

    CJ Ollie Member

    Lincoln, NE
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2012
    Messages:
    90
    That is looking great! I am following closely since mine is a 70 also. Hoping to get my frame back from the frame shop so I can paint it and start reassembly as well.

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  19. Oct 31, 2013
    djbutler

    djbutler Sponsor Sponsor

    Rio Linda CA
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2007
    Messages:
    716
    Don't forget to unbolt the axle bump stops and clean the rust from underneath them.
    While you are at it check real close for cracks near the spring shackle brackets both front and rear. Also check the frame channel near the rear bracket for the front springs, that is a common crack point.

    Don
     
  20. Oct 31, 2013
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member Sponsor

    Tantallon, Nova...
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2003
    Messages:
    5,335
    POR 15 will work as well as advertised but if you don't follow the instructions exactly it can fail :(

    Two coats of POR will work best, especially if you're brushing it on, I went with one coat first time I did my chassis (notice i said "first time") & within a year the pinholes were developing rust, within 4 years it was pretty much toast.

    Even though you've done just a fantastic job cleaning your frame I'd really recommend using the POR metal etch before applying the 15, this stuff has been known to simply peel off metal that's to smooth even if it is clean :rofl:

    H.
     

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