Discussion in 'Early CJ-5 and CJ-6 Tech' started by 53A1, Jan 6, 2019.
Yes, that's a nice Jeep. Would love to see more of it.
Tracked down the engine SN. 1375162 on top of block. From what I've read this is a 225 and correct year for the VIN. I'm wondering how adding a flex plate for the auto trans affected the engine. It should run rougher with the lighter flywheel.
I can't see enough to tell. Sure that's a TH350? Wondering if it has a Commando 400. Is there a cast adapter between the transmission and engine?
Lots of similar vintage Jeepster Commandos had a TH400 behind the Dauntless 225 from the factory, so automatics play fine with the odd-fire. The torque converter full of ATF has a fair amount of mass to it.
I'm 100% sure it's a TH350. It has an Advanced Adapters plate to marry up the transfer. Good point about the TQ mass. Can't get to the timing this weekend but plan on diving into that next weekend and I'll post pictures. My next worry is the carb is too big for the engine.
BTW, I talked to the owners wife and she told me it ran when it was parked so I imagine the setup is good. Nice lady and a sad situation. I payed her some money for the Jeep, as much as I could afford but still not enough after talking to you guys.
Very commendable. Can't wait for more pics. I'm told ecj5s with automatic trannys are quite fun to drive.
How did the builder deal with the rear driveshaft?
I'm sure we'll find out... shortly.
naw it's 14 inches long
Had some time this evening to check the timing and something is not right. I set the dwell to 29 deg and hooked up a vacuum gauge to the manifold. I found I cannot get the vacuum reading above 18 and I have to set the timing way advanced (15 btdc) to get it to run good. I monitored the vacuum gauge and nothing seems unusual except the vacuum should be higher at idle. If I set the timing to spec at 5 btdc it hesitates, runs rough and will backfire out the carb.
Found what I think is a brake line sending unit. The valve next to it is an electric line select. My drive shaft was modified like the picture in the above post. Changed the air cleaner housing because the 14" one was rubbing the wires on the firewall and I was able to eliminate the riser by using a 10" housing. This allows me to run a taller filter.
That is a brake line switch, they are a common part and you can get replacement s on Rockauto, etc along with the correct connector for the wiring. If your jeep had a dual master cylinder there should be another switch on the rear brake line under drivers floorboard attached to the frame rail.
For the tuning issue others smarter than I will chime in but I would make sure the distributor is wired to the correct cylinders, check compression, try a new distributor cap, plug wires, etc for a complete tune up using the tech service manual
Mechanics (service) Manual Fits 66-71 CJ-5
Remember the engine might not be stock on the inside. I would adjust based on vac and check plugs regularly. My 4.3's quadrajet Carb and HEI dizzy took a lot of work just to run a mild cam and higher compression pistons. Make sure you take pictures and scribe alignment marks.
Thanks guys. Yes it has another sender up front. True, the engine may be modified.
When I rebuilt my 225 and added a mild cam...it definitely liked to idle with more initial advance like you are dealing with. Due to concerns with plug fouling at elevation I downsized the jets and then ended up backing the down the initial advance. Don't know if that's really the right solution....I like how it drove around town with larger jets and more timing but when gaining 5000' in the mountains it fouled and ran poorly.
That's a very well thought out set-up. Give it the TLC it deserves. No re-engineering needed. 1 inch RANCHO springs and SOA work very well for off the shelf units. The stiffness reduces body roll. Once you get used to the handling you can always pull a leaf to soften things up. I used them for a few years until I went with custom packs.
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