anyone want a jeep!!!!

I can't help other than I can have my dad come by and pick up that free Jeep anytime. He's also it CT.

 

ok gang here is where im at... first off im kinda smiling now:

i finally got her running to where she would warm up and i could get a light on it.... i adjusted the dist till i was at around 10 deg btdc or so... thats were she seemed to be happy... i was waiting for it to get warmed up so i could really start fine tunning the timing, when she started back firing through the pipes again. I was still around 10 degs or so, and she started doing it a little more... this was all at idle. i bliped the throttle, and she did it again, the puked out the carb a touch.... i shut her down... so... it will start, but not without the help of some carb spray, she idles somewhat smooth, but then starts backfiring. any ideas? i am walking away tonight, i feel like i won the battle for now, i just need to win the war

 

Kids are running all over and the wife isn't here so I don't have time to resize photos now. Shoot me an e-mail to chinhazel@aol.com and I'll send you some photos of the DUI I put on Hatari's 225.

 

Silly question, but you did bypass the resistor on the firewall and put a constant key-on source of 12V to the distributor, right?

Other photos are coming. Feel free to post up any of the stuff I sent you if you think it'll help others. Good luck.

 

i have an ez wire harness, and there is nothing left of the old harness... the motor is the only thing wired up right now, and yes everything is installed correctly so far... good thought though, that would make a big diff i would think

 

It sounds like you're beyond these steps at this point but thought I'd offer up some of my experience anyway. I'm not sure how different your V-6 would be from a SBC, but here's how I've stabbed the distributor on race engines for many years:

1. Take out the number one plug
2. Turn it over until it's at TDC and there's compression blowing out
3. You can also check the timing mark at this point to make sure it's close
4. Put the dist. in the hole, pointing the rotor toward the number one spark plug hole
5. Line up the rotor with the number one wire on the cap to make sure there's room to turn it for adjustment (length of wires, etc.)
6. Put in the dist. all the way, being careful not to let the rotor turn. Bump the starter if you have to to get it to fall in.
7. Install the cap.

This is usually enough to fire it right up and then adjust with a timing light.

Another consideration, make sure the rotor and cap are good. A little crack in the wrong place can make it miss big time. Also, on HEIs, make sure there is good contact between the rotor and cap. I'm not sure how DUI does their cap but it can be an issue, even with some new stuff.

And I agree. Sometimes (often lots of times) it's a good idea to walk away for awhile.

Best of luck tomorrow!

 

1. 
   
   
   :iagree:
   
   From what I have read on this all the problems will occur if the beginning of the procedure is not done correctly. When you remove the plug, try to verify the position of the #1 piston by using a screw driver. Kind of stick it in there while someone else bumps the engine until the piston is staight up. This should be about your 10 degrees btdc. Then you might mark the distributor with chalk and continue. Ensuring a proper beginning may be the solution.

 

bruce and jason thanks for the help, i am at tdc ( #1 piston fully extended on the compression stroke... the only thing that i have been doing diff, is that i have been making sure i am at 0 deg btdc instead of 10 deg... is this where i am wrong?????

also i know everything is in great working order due to the fact that before my exhaust came in i was idling beautifully with open headers, then when i installed the magnaflows and tried to start it, and it sounded like crap, and after moving a couple teeth each way i could not get it back, so i started over.... hence the new thread, and now you know where i am at....

 

if it comes to that, he will be picking up a pile of ash R)

 

you know what, i just went down to the jeep, and realized i did not reinstall the new bolt on the drivers side front after grinding, this was not in there with open headers, could this be causing enough of a vac leak to make a diff. the only reason i am sceptical, is that when i was running without the mufflers, i did not have it in, and it was idling fine??????

 

but why run smoother without mufflers?? oh well, i couldnt find the bolt i bought, gonna have to go get another one today..

any other ideas on why she would just start backfiring through the pipes after i got it timed where it should be? could it be bad plugs? carb adj? im just throwing stuff out there before i go back down to the jeep:?

 

roger el capitan!!

 

I smell a red herring...

 

Mufflers don't affect the way it runs. It will just be louder. Mine even ran the same with or without mufflers. I even timed it with the mufflers off. :?

If you were still in Washington. I would come over and set that distributor for you.