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'66 Cj5 Tux Resto-mod

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by truckee4x4, Jul 9, 2018.

  1. Jun 21, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Truckee CA
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    Haven't done much on the Jeep in a few weeks because I started a new job (finally!) at the beginning of the month, and we got the house painted so I had to do the trim. I know - excuses, excuses.

    This weekend was going to be my first big push in a bit, and I had planned to tackle the RH rear corner by cutting out the rotten parts on Saturday and weld it back up Sunday. Friday night however I got crushed by whatever our 2 year old brought home from daycare, which was presumably norovirus...so instead I spent Saturday on the couch and only made it into the garage yesterday. Let's just say the good news is I finally lost that last five pounds!

    Something caught my eye when I get started Sunday morning - It sure didn't look like the LH tai light panel was flush and square. Sure enough a straightedge proved it not to be. I still have to figure out how to clamp up and finish some of the spot welds along the inside edge of the tailgate surround so whenever I get to that with sheetmetal screws I will try my best to flatten everything out.


    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7b4a.jpg

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7b5b.jpg
    Bit by bit I got the old spare tire carrier out:

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7b68.jpg

    What are these scallop shaped pieces that are along the sides? Surely they are not OEM?

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7b4d.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7b64.jpg

    The new one looks pretty good in there, but I have some tweaking to the rear of the tub that is making things not line up which will have to be addressed when it's time to put everything back together. I did tack-weld up a couple of box tubes to help re-align everything.

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7b5d.jpg
    ELUr5Pm3RMGvrrS3dxy3WA_thumb_7b53.jpg
    Looks pretty good held up there!
    q7qR1ujaSYKXHsGdRrQ6kg_thumb_7b4c.jpg

    I'm going to have to cut out a larger section of the upper body corner and patch that in, as well as make a patch for the upper flat portion of the wheelhouse (which will hopefully be hidden under cushions!) @garage gnome is awesome and is sending me some patch panels he has. Thanks!

    I also noticed an unfortunate gap between the tailgate valence and the LH tail panel, which is already welded in place, so that is kind of a bummer. I can close up the RH side before I weld it back up and re-align everything.
    G79VpDQLSU20h6eyeKBEqQ_thumb_7b69.jpg

    Finally said enough is enough and took the kid and the wife for a dip in the river. Great Sunday and I hope to keep going this week! As a carpenter who teaches on a CNC machine, I’m finding that I’m having to let go of my desire to make everything flush and square… Working with sheet metal is pretty new to me and I’m at the point in the project where is the best that I can do is going to be the best that I can do. Got to get this thing done by the time it snows. It’s an old Jeep - within a 16th is good enough right?
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7b54.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2021
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  2. Jul 5, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Time for an update on the slow march towards repairing this original body.

    Made some progress on the RH rear corner so far this weekend. I had planned to tackle this last weekend, but when I test fit all the pieces, the wheelhouse spare tire brace that I had from Classic just didn't fit. I started a thread on it over in the Tech forum. It looked like either the corner panel they sent, or the brace, weren't going to fit together correctly. Thanks to Mark from Classic Enterprises, I received a box Thursday free of charge with two deconstructed brace units, allowing me to complete the repair a piece at a time and adjust the fitment.

    See that gap two posts above between the LH tail light panel and the tailgate surround? Well I figured that I would start this part of the project by taking the opportunity to close the gap on the RH side before I started since that hadn't move. Also I suspected the wheelhouse box was pretty deformed at some point in the past because it was swiss cheeses for holes for an aftermarket roll bar, and also literally and obviously deformed by the rotten spare tire brace. So my plan was to start at this joint, and then work my way out and tack everything together so it fit correctly.

    What is it they say about the best laid plans?

    Here's some of the patches I had to do first: starting with the inside wall of the wheelhouse box:
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7bad.jpg

    The rear corner fit up showing the two patches I had to do at the loweer part where the old spare tire carrier rotted away the body:
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7ba5.jpg

    Somewhat ground down welds on the inside wheelhouse box wall panel:

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7bae.jpg

    View of the two upper outside patches:

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7be9.jpg
    Close Up of one patch:

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7bef.jpg
    Both patches:
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7bec.jpg
    And the wheelhouse box top panels that @garage gnome sent me (Thanks!!)
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7bfc.jpg
    Patch cut out:
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7bf4.jpg
    Patch stitched in:

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7bfa.jpg

    TBC in next thread for more photos:
     
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  3. Jul 5, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Classic's L-bracket along the wheelhouse box wall, where I used sheet metal screws to suck everything together between the plug weld holes:
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7bf3.jpg

    Wheelhouse center brace clamped in:
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7bf1.jpg
    Outside panel after I welded it all up:
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7bf8.jpg
    View of the inside of the seam (does this get welded too?)
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7bf5.jpg


    Didn't do too bad with the taillight panel and the curved rear corner at the back:
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7c02.jpg
    But a straight edge does not lie - when held vertically across my joint, there is a big dip along the seam. Guess I will have to learn how to do bondo here!
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7c01.jpg
    Another view:
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7c00.jpg
    And you can see how I still have a bit of a gap to close, and how far off I am from the Sharpie marks on my 1/4" square tube alignment for where the OEM rear corner bottom lined up.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7bff.jpg

    Bottom line -- made some progress on the outside, but I probably moved a bit too quickly and put false hope in the fact that I would be able to adjust as I went, but I quickly learned that in this type of work, things have to line up pretty much perfectly BEFORE you start.
     
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  4. Jul 10, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Weekend update time - got the RH corner almost done, but then I stopped myself short before I welded it all up because I had a thought - should I wait to weld in the spare tire support baffle until after body work can be done on the outer body panel? It didn't quite end up straight and if I weld in the baffle and hat channel won't that eliminate the possibility of straightening or at least improving it?

    I did the best that I could, but over the years the damage done to this area kind of seeped out to the surrounding wheelhouse box area which is lumpy/wavy so things in the general zone aren't quite square. Despite my best efforts at the curved panel stitch, it's not quite flat when you hold a straight edge over the seam.

    I have never done body work before, and my plan on this build is to complete the structural repairs as best as I can and then hand it off to a restoration body shop in Sparks for hammer and dolly and Bondo work and then paint because I have never done those things, I have no one around to teach me in person, and I feel like it's not the kind of thing you learn from watching YouTube. This Jeep is going to be a driver and it's going to get dirty and have bushes scraped down the side of it....but I don't want it to look like a piece of crap. I wish I had someone to show me how to do these things but I don't so I'm willing to pay an experienced craftsman to get it across the finish line.

    What do you guys think @Dne007 @tripilio @Fireball @timsresort? Wait? Send it since it's going to be under the tire anyway? Love to hear your thoughts/suggestions.

    Here's some pics:


    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7c2a.jpg

    R92kSq%RTXiQ6CjVuLeG4Q_thumb_7c27.jpg

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7c29.jpg

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7c26.jpg

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7c25.jpg

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7c2b.jpg
     
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  5. Jul 10, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Started out by cutting the rotten bondoed rocker. And also cut the bottom of the side support panel. Shame I had to buy the whole one from Classic as it was cheaper than the lower section. If anyone needs this upper section I will have both sides. UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7c54.jpg

    Kinda cut the line a little wonky but I didn't want to use the plasma as it's hard to catch the spray which leads to hours of buffing off slag from the sandblasted body. UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7c55.jpg

    Here's the equivalent new piece from Classic (thanks Mary O'Brien!): UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7c67.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7c68.jpg

    Tacked in place with a square tube showing the height and holding the floor panels where they should be

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7c6a.jpg

    View of the un-bended front piece that I will bend back (could'nt do it in the brake because of the foldover) UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7c6d.jpg

    Final view: 4406A6CD-74BC-4B88-8627-DB51FE13A242.jpeg
    Well it’s just tacked in but I’d say that was a successful day!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 11, 2021
  6. Jul 25, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Making some progress on the floors. Got the RH floor tacked in yesterday, and measured the bracing so it shoulds go in today.

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d33.jpg


    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d39.jpg
    I put a bunch of 1/2"-13 bolts up through all the mount points on the frame and measured all the cross lines between them so I can be sure where to place the bracing. Will draw it up tomorrow and post here in case anyone else might find that information useful.

    The big question is - should I cut out the LH floor and bracing? It was replaced by a PO with 1/8" plate. They did a nice job, but they used box tube instead of hat channel.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d3a.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d38.jpg

    View of the top (Jeep is upside down)
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d3b.jpg
    Same goes for the rear floor riser - I could probably splice it with the RH half of the new one from Classic that will go in where it was rusty instead of spending a whole day cutting the LH part of it (and the floor) out.

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d32.jpg

    It would be nice to move on - what would you do?

    I'm not doing a restoration here so TBH I'm inclined to leave it since it's solid save from some surface pocking that is in consequential on 1/8 plate. That would leave just the LH rocker and tailgate surround. And I'd have to splice in a new "pad rest" at the LH frame front. UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d37.jpg


    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d36.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d35.jpg
     
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  7. Jul 25, 2021
    Hellion

    Hellion Regurgitated

    Eastern TN
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    I thought the 'beehive' style lens was held in place by a circular wire spring that you pried out/off, which in turn released the lens and allowed access to the bulb from the front?

    I'd get new lenses or try to polish them up with a suitable paste (some are specific to plastic), if those are indeed plastic lenses. They look yellowed though.
    Are they amber or clear?
     
  8. Jul 26, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    I got the RH floor done yesterday, pretty stoked on that.

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d47.jpg

    I checked, re checked, and re-measured all the mount locations by putting 6" long bolts up through the holes on the frame and making this diagram.
    IMG_9505 (1).jpg
    View attachment 71752
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d3c.jpg

    • 1-2 = 32"
    • 1-4 - 27" (+/- ~0.75")
    • 3-5 = 9.5" (+/1 ~0.75")
    • 3-4 = 31" (+/- 0.75")
    • 1-3 = 36.25"
    • 4-5 = 27"
    • 2-11 = 78"
    • 8-11 = 48.5"
    • 1-8 = 78"
    • 5-6 = 35"
    • 2-4 = 39.5" (+/- 0.75")
    • 1-5 = 39.5" (+/- 0.75")
    • 5-11 = 42"
    • 4-8 = 42"


    When the bracing was in the right place, I used @timsresort trick of sheet metal screws where I couldn't clamp, and drilled 5/16" holes n the bracing and spot welded it to the floor with a couple of lap weld beads here and there for insurance.

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d43.jpg

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d4d.jpg


    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d49.jpg

    At the rear riser under the gas tank, the support was long rusted away. So I cut it out and made a new patch panel from 16 ga. Didn't quite finish it but I got it started before it was time to make dinner.

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d46.jpg

    My plan was to give it a go, and see if I was satisfied with this small patch...and if not, I will cut out a bigger panel from the Classic Enterprises replacement. If I leave it, once I get that finished and cleaned up, I'll be adding another panel of 18 ga. for support, just like the original.

    Here and there I added another dot or two to the rocker stitch, trying hard to clamp and hold a straightedge along it do as to make the seam low.

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d48.jpg

    And here's this week's project - cutting the Classic panel in half and stitching it in under the new floor. I think I am going to take this route instead of cutting the old one all the way out. And on the LH floor - I will probably leave the POs 1/8" plate floor since it's in decent shape. See how I feel by the time Saturday rolls around. Tonight after work I'll be getting the new tailgate surround and stitching that into the rear floor itself.

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d45.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2021
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  9. Jul 27, 2021
    Steve's 70-5

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    I would put the tub back on the frame and bolt it up before sending it to the Body Shop
     
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  10. Jul 27, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Oh yeah that is 100% the plan. I may even do that this weekend assuming I repair the tailgate surround and can get the tub back on the rotisserie and flip it over and hoist it. I figure I can also still adjust the LH forward mount point if I absolutely have to since I already have a replacement floor and hat channel that I bought in 2018.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Jul 27, 2021
    Steve's 70-5

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    After you get the tub on and take it off. Note how many rubber shims you have in each location. When putting it back on for the last time it will go quicker
     
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  12. Jul 27, 2021
    Steve's 70-5

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    In your bolt location 4 & 5. The frame is not flat there, it angles up or down( do not remember). You might have to bend the metal of the tub there to match the frame angle. Is hard to do with the tub sitting on the frame
     
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  13. Aug 1, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Put in another solid day yesterday and got the tailgate area back together. I cut out the top section of a new tailgate surround from Classic and stitched it in, along with a new bend-end of floor 18ga, and the tailgate valance panel with body supports from Classic. It was a full day just to get this in.

    Here's the top piece just sitting there as I adjusted the fitment:

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d7d.jpg

    I hung the tailgate and hinges before I tacked it in:
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d80.jpg
    Made sure to use a burr grinder to make a 45 degree channel in the butt weld at each corner:
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d84.jpg

    Lots and lots of holes for spot welds
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d89.jpg
    And a very long butt dot-stitch weld to reconnect the rear floor:

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d85.jpg
    Lots and lots of dots to grind out now
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d8d.jpg
    Looks kinda just like the original - wish I had just repalced the entire tailgate surround (I ended up leaving the sides because I already welded int he taillight panels - should have done the tailgate first!)
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d8c.jpg

    Still need to add a patch panel at the LH rear corner where I had to cut out some rot.

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d8e.jpg

    Onto that todayy and then the rear support riser RH side behind the toolbox, and the LH rocker is th elast major item on the body to attend to...unless I decide to replace the LH floor and box tube bracing.
     
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  14. Aug 2, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Got the rear support riser in yesterday, minus finishing the seam in the middle. Will do that when I rotate the tub vertically on the rotisserie.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d99.jpg
    Also finished welding in the RH rear corner spare tire support.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d95.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d96.jpg
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d98.jpg

    Now there's just two major items left - #1 is the LH rocker.

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d94.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7d97.jpg
    And the LH floor box tube has to come out - it is completely blocked with flaky rust, as in can't shine a light from one end to the other. So I'll be cutting it out and replacing it with the hat channel after all.

    Which then leaves about three days worth of hole patching and weld dot grinding. Hope my neighbors like the sound of a compressor and a die grinder!
     
  15. Aug 2, 2021
    timsresort

    timsresort Member

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    Really nice work. I just got caught up on your progress. Speaking of putting the tub back on the frame...I had a little panic when I did mine, it was like it had never been together, there for a while. There was a lot of hmmm, but it eventually fit. I think if you don't have the old wobbled out holes, it's a new ballgame. I'm glad you decided to get the rectangular tubing out of the floor, you've come so far, so why not?
     
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  16. Aug 3, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Thanks Tim!

    If you were me would you go whole hog and replace the floor too? It’s really not that bad…but having half a floor of 16ga and half a floor of 1/8” might be a little weird.
     
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  17. Aug 3, 2021
    timsresort

    timsresort Member

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    Yes, and I know it's easy for me to say. You are doing such an extensive job, at this point, what's another weekend of welding? But, I also know one can get burned out and want to move on, so I get it when enough is enough.
     
  18. Aug 3, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Funnily enough between work and beer I tried to cut out a small portion of the box tube and discovered that not only is the inside totally rusted out, but it would take way way longer to cut the tube out than to just cut out the floor with the tube still on it with the plasma torch.

    So looks like that’s the call for this weekend!

    Anyone have a suggestion for what to line the inside bottom of the top of the cowl so I don’t get slag on it? I neglected to do this on the RH side when I torched out the rotten floor and I’ve got a lot of sanding to do over there. Couple of layers of Tin foil?
     
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  19. Aug 7, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Couple of progress pics. Cutting out the floor and box tube went somewhat OK as I had time for it after work this week. Not as easy as I had hoped though. The box tube was definitely rotten.

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7db5.jpg

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7db4.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7db3.jpg

    I can report that whomever did this repair in the past did a very thorough job, and it's at the limit of my tools to safely cut it out. Grinders make me very nervous...and my little Amazon plasma torch barely cuts through the box tube at full power.

    Things outside are....smoky. Looks like I get to wear an N95 all day today.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7dc7.jpg
    This was the Dixie plume on Thursday before the smoke came to tahoe.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7dc3.jpg
    Then, Friday was like this. 1-2 miles visibility and ash falling. View from my office at the airport, can't even see Northstar.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7dce.jpg

    Thoughts go out to all of our neighbors to the north who lost everything in Greenville, Chester, Indian Falls and Canyon Dam (and....?). I know a few firefighters and heli-tack pilots and they are dismayed at the conditions, but resolved to see this through.

    Off to the garage. Happy Saturday everyone!
     
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  20. Aug 8, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Made pretty good progress yesterday.


    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7dd8.jpg

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7dde.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7ddc.jpg
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7ddb.jpg

    The rocker almost fit, but it was about 1/8" short so I had too flatten out the fold over at the front so it could slide back to where it goes.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7de3.jpg

    Here's the spliced in new vertical side support.
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_7de4.jpg

    The only pickles were that the POs 1/8" plate floor repair is really tacked in there along the seams, so I will probably install my new floor on top (below) of it, as I did on the RH side. Also the CLassic rocker panel was about 1/8" too short, as it was on the RH side, so I had to flatten the wrap out at the front where the fender attaches. Hopefully it's not too apparent.

    Other than that, I had to splice in another section of the rear floor support riser as it was rotten where it attaches to the LH side rocker panel. The floor doesn't quite drop in as perfectly as it did on the RH side, so there may be some fudging to make it work.

    Maybe I'm wrong, but the only issue I forese if that the vertical baffles that form the footwells might be off of where they should be by an eighth inch of so.

    Hope to wrap this up today, at least to get things tacked into place. Given what @timsresort and others said though, I think before I weld the LH floor brace in place I'm going to roll this tub over, crane it on the engine hoist and drop it onto the frame to check the alignment. I figure I can use my measurements and tack it into place with sheet metal screws, and if I have to move it I can. Goal for today is to get the floor and rocker welded up so I can do the brace this week.
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2021
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