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225 engine assembly

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by grannyscj, Jan 27, 2013.

  1. Feb 15, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    Dec 19, 2005
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    Took the day off today to have a 4 day weekend to work on the engine. Heated the rods in the oven, measuring before and after and there is not enough difference for my plan to work. So it's off to the machine shop for piston assembly. Will install cam, timing set, and cover instead.
     
  2. Feb 16, 2013
    69Willys

    69Willys Las Vegas, NV

    Las Vegas, NV
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    Nov 11, 2011
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    :toetap: The suspense is killing me...
     
  3. Feb 16, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    Sorry. Went new car shopping today. Full day of engine work ahead tomorrow.
     
  4. Feb 16, 2013
    69Willys

    69Willys Las Vegas, NV

    Las Vegas, NV
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    Nov 11, 2011
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    You're excused...;)
     
  5. Feb 17, 2013
    Cap-n-Cray

    Cap-n-Cray I want to do this again.. Staff Member

    Bainbridge...
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    Sep 21, 2009
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    203,136
    Why? I have never done that in all the engines I have rebuilt; My first CJ5 V6, 140 HP Corvair, several VWs, two 912s, and a Toyota. :D
     
  6. Feb 17, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    Why did I heat it? In the hope it would expand the eye enough to easily install the wrist pins. Didn't work. They are going to need to be flamed.
     
  7. Feb 17, 2013
    Cap-n-Cray

    Cap-n-Cray I want to do this again.. Staff Member

    Bainbridge...
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    OK... I have heated gears to fit them on. I thought you were measuring them for length on something.

    Carry on...
     
  8. Feb 17, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    Well another day down. Waiting for paint to dry on the damper so it's a good place to stop. To start i needed to check crankshaft end play. I used a dial indicator in plane with the crankshaft. Take a pry bar and move the crank to one end of its travel, zero the dial, then move it to the other end of its travel. Should be between .004 and .008. Mine was ~.0065". Since it was about 35* when I did it, I figure I'm right in the middle at .006". I'm happy with that.
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    Since pistons aren't ready till next week, I installed the cam and timing set. First was cam, Comp Cams 260H. If you have the original engine mount bolts, one will do the job for an installation tool.
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    Lubricate well all bearings and lobes with Comp Cams cam and lifter lube (warranty). Insert carefully, avoiding bumping anything.
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    The inner bearings are of smaller diameter than the outer so it goes pretty easy until the last set. Just be patient and don't force it. When it all lines up it will suck right in. Put the key on and you are done, no retainer.
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    No piston to set at TDC, so I needed to use both gears to set the crank and cam.
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    Crank is longest so crank gear goes on first. Slowly work them on keeping the chain as straight up and down as possible (new ones are very tight). Camshaft increases in diameter near the block making it difficult to go all the way on. I put my fingers in the front cylinders and used my palms to rock the gear all the way on. I also used a drift to bottom both gears out.
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    From in to out install fuel pump cam, distributor gear(numbers out), spacer and bolt(45-55 lb-ft), and cam button.
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    Install cam tensioners using thread lock, you're on your own with the frickkin' spring. Slide the crank oil slinger on concave out and you are ready for the cover.
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    While painting the damper, I installed the front rope seal ends to the top and drove in the shedder with a punch. I staked it at four corners using the same punch. After some bolt clean up I'm done for the day.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2013
  9. Feb 17, 2013
    69Willys

    69Willys Las Vegas, NV

    Las Vegas, NV
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    Glad to see you're back at it. I'm following along with my FSM. I have a question: when lining those timing marks up on the 2 sprockets, do you need to be at #1TDC on the compression stroke? Just wondering if a guy could get off by 180* here...wow, that chain is really snug compared to the one I took off my old motor!
     
  10. Feb 17, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    Nope only one way to go. Basically one turn of the cam gear equals two turns of the crank gear. To be 180* out the mark would need to be at the top of the cam gear rotation.
     
  11. Feb 18, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    Finished off the front of the engine today. Started by changing my mind. FSM says to oil cam bolt and torque. I decided to remove and clean then loctite it as was suggested by Comp Cams.
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    Using a hammer handle, I worked the front seal in a little to clear the damper sleeve.
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    After getting the gasket ready to go, I saturated the timing chain and gears with the cam and lifter lube.
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    Installed the timing cover. Used Permatex #2 on both sides of the gasket. Water pump and crank damper must be absent to torque the bolts. Creep up on the torque to make sure the cover lays flat then torque to 28-33 lb-ft.
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    225s use a lot of Al mating surfaces so I've learned to clean them a little differently than I would steel. I clean the major gunk and paper with a brass brush then use a sanding block to finish clean them.
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    I always use sealant on water pump bolts. Torque to 6-8 lb-ft.
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    Crank damper on, bolt torqued to 140 lb-ft. Done till next weekend.
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Feb 19, 2013
    69Willys

    69Willys Las Vegas, NV

    Las Vegas, NV
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    Looking good! Is your new cam a remake of the stock cam or will it provide some performance upgrade?
     
  13. Feb 19, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    Better top end. We do a lot of cross country trips.
     
  14. Feb 22, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    Some more car shopping tomorrow then piston install on Sunday. Heads too, time and weather permitting.
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  15. Feb 24, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    Rotating assembly complete. Please bear with me as there are a lot of steps and I'll try to remember everything I did but I may miss some things. Things to have close at hand:
    1. 15/16" socket and ratchet
    2. Feeler gauge
    3. Ring compresser
    4. Piston hammer (I used the handle of a dead blow)
    5. Oil can
    6. Torque wrench and 1/2" 12 point socket

    Other stuff
    1. Pistons
    2. Ring set
    3. Rod bearings
    4. Roll of Scott towels
    5. WD-40
    6. Assembly lube
    7. Green Plastigage
    8. Fine file

    I do each cylinder completely then move on. Rotate crank journal away from cylinder. Using WD-40 and Scott towell clean cylinder one more time. Squirt oil in cylinder and rub around thoroughly. Rotate engine so cylinder is vertical (keeps things from banging into side of cylinder). Back file outer edge of ring both sides of gap lightly to remove any burrs, sharp edges.
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    Oil up the ring and insert in cylinder. Square it up with the bottom of the piston. Check gap with feeler gauge, minimum .015".
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    Before installing rings, plastigage the rod bearings. Insert the bearings in rod and cap. Rotate crank under cylinder and engine upside down. Carefully insert piston, lay a strip of plastigage across journal and bolt cap onto crank. Torque to 35 lb-ft. Take cap off and read radial clearance. It should be between .0002" and .0023". Greater than .003" go to the next undersize bearing. All of mine measured around .0015". Not necessary to remove plastic but if you do use your fingernail, nothing harder.
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    These are non file fit rings but its always a good idea to check gap. Next install the rings. Oil ring first. There are 3 pieces to it. The expander and an upper and lower rail. The expander should be installed with the ends butted together above piston boss. It's not necessary to clock the rails but I do, one at 60* from boss and other 180* out from it.
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    The compression rings are specific. The chrome ring is on top and the top of each is marked with a dot or T (dot in this case). Clock them 180* out from each other at 90* from boss.
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    As you see they move around a little so readjust as necessary before clamping in the ring compressor. Since some force is required to push the piston in and the crank journal is below the cylinder now so cover the rod bolts with something. I use vacuum caps, rubber hose works or if your fancy they have cool vinyl covers you can buy.
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    Making sure you have installed the rod bearing (they are a pain to install from the bottom DAHIK) brush (or squirt) assembly lube on the bearing. Oil up the piston, squeeze it tight in the ring compressor, insert it in the cylinder paying attention to orientation (arrow to front of engine), then using a dead blow hammer handle (or buy the specialty tool), tap it into the cylinder being careful to line it up on the journal.
    [​IMG]
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    Apply assembly lube to bearing in rod cap and install it onto the bolts. Oil bolts and landings then torque nuts to 30-40 lb-ft.
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    After you install all pistons, check clearance with feeler gauge between rods on the same journal. It should be between .005" and .012". In other words .005" should go but .012" shouldn't.
    [​IMG]

    Done for this week.
    [​IMG]
     
  16. Feb 24, 2013
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
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    Looking good. Makes me think of back when my engine was new.
     
  17. Mar 2, 2013
    givemethewillys

    givemethewillys Sponsor

    New Kent, VA
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    Any updates? I love this thread!
     
  18. Mar 2, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    Not today. Not a good idea to torque 70°F heads to a 30°F block. So I stripped the valve covers, cleaned up and shined the bell housing, and finished cleaning the rest of the bolts. Should be warm tomorrow.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2013
  19. Mar 3, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    Some decent weather today, so made good progress. Buttoned up the bottom end. Windage tray and oil pickup first. Use a little Loc-Tite on these bolts. Don't want them coming loose.
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    Always look the pan over and straighten the mounting surface. Trim gaskets that stick up and its always a good idea to lay the gasket on the block first. I had to cut around one of the windage tray bolts.
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    Wipe down the gasket mounting surface with a solvent (I use brake cleaner). Apply Permatex #2 to block and pan, lay gasket on block, then bolt on pan after applying some permatex to the threads. The FSM says 10-15 lb-ft. I use the calibrated forearm technique and watch the sealant squeeze out.
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    Bottom done. If your's is in your jeep it should not look like this. If so, you're in trouble.
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    Heads next. Clean mounting surface with solvent. Gaskets only go on one way and are marked on the up side.
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    Last look at the pretty new valves.
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    Carefully place heads on block. You can lean over them and see the pins and holes. Set lower part of head on pins and then the upper.
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    Apply moly lube to both sides of washers and slide onto bolt champher side up. Apply some thread sealant and install finger tight. The two long bolts go in the top middle holes.
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    Torque in three steps (I did 35-53-70 lb-ft). Best to use the FSM sequence, but its basically top row first, middle-end-middle-end. Do the bottom row same way then step up to next higher torque.
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    Done for now and a preview. GO POKES!
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  20. Mar 3, 2013
    chuck123wapati

    chuck123wapati Member

    wyoming
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2008
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    761
    awesome build just remember to take everything out of the oil galley that you put in it. I've found almost everything you had setting in there even rags in previously rebuilt engines:) I notice yours was empty.
     

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