Intermediate Frankenjeep Build

Driver side panel is (nearly) done. I taped over a few spots that need attention from the welder before the rattle-can primer application.

The rear portion of the patch was cut down just a bit smaller to more easily make the seams less noticeable.





Jon B.

 

No pics today…

There was an oil leak between the D20 and the Novak adapter, so…

Off came the driveshafts and shifter. Then, drain the t-case & 465 tranny. Pull the bolts and the nearly inaccessible nut on the lower right stud.

Out came the t-case. Clean the old gasket & sealer off both surfaces, really clean with brake cleaner and lacquer thinner, spray new gasket with copper spray sealer, and reinstall everything.

Gotta tighten the crossmember bolts and put the gear lube back in, but the rest is done.

It made sense to do it before the tub goes on, but I was still procrastinating. Why? Hekifinow.

Jon B.

 

This is getting more funner! (That’s a technical term.)







I’ll have to lift it off again but it was a bright spot in my day.

The bottom of the body is 27” off the floor without any body mount ‘pucks’. It’s gonna be a bear to get into and out of… Especially since I’ll turn 70 in three weeks (or so), and I’m 5-8 in height.

Jon B.

 

You can do it, it takes longer, hurts longer(more pain pills needed), more planning, but you can do it. Ron

 

26-3/4" for mine and 73". Takes care to not rip your jeans out.

 

I’ve done some more work on the heap but no pics…

At the advice of several members here, I bought a box of hockey pucks (made in the Czech Republic!) for use as body mounts. The extras will go to one of our grandsons, since he plays hockey. A box of 25 was under $40, delivered.

I started looking closer at the windshield frame; it’s worse than I remembered. I called Willys-Overland to ask about their frames. He suggested I find someone closer, as their shipping makes it impractical. I think I was talking with the company CEO; Jay himself. He also said that the frames are all the same, so buy from whoever has the best price. I presume they all come from M D Juan, but don’t know. I ordered one from K-W for $235.99 and free shipping.

The windshield glass had a bad stone pit in it and then cracked as I was removing it.
Oh well. It was tinted a medium green, anyway, so will be replaced by a clear glass.

The wiper motor works on hi and lo speeds, and the linkage is good. The upper hinges are good, though one has a broken bolt in need of removal. Those two pieces are stupid expensive to replace!

Got steel coming for the cage ($$$$). Gotta get some other bits of steel for sliders and tub repair (inside the cargo area).

I used my new (to me) lathe to make a new push rod for the clutch slave cylinder, as the one that came with it was too short.

After I’m finished with my afternoon coffee , maybe I’ll go out to the shop an grab some photos… Maybe.

Jon B.

 

Windshield frame rot:



Clutch push rod(s). The first was also too short.


Cargo area rust & cracks to be repaired:


Jon B.

 

He wears *all* the hats there!




Jon B.

 

Here's someone selling 73 parts in elk river. He has a windshield frame, but there's some surface rust on it.

https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1279734156349147/?ref=search

https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1823497071472178/?ref=search

 

I spy the "right" tan dash pad for the replacement jeep bummer its so far away.

 

Here's a possibility. In my case, the bottom of the body is 24" and my "lily pad" steps are 15" from the ground. The vertical shaft rotates within a pipe mount and can be lifted from a detent and turned in; or when they are out they can be lifted up for ground clearance if desired. They've been good for my use--getting in or out. Yes, I've straightened them a few time over the years. Could be made detachable easy enough.

 

I’m suspicious that those steps - and the exhaust - would be the first and second things torn off by rocks, stumps, etc.

I think I’ll add some extra grab points to help with mounting & dismounting.

Jon B.

 

The first spring over set up I can remember was my brothers 53 model 3B. he already was running 9.00x16 military tires when we changed it to a spring over. Man you had to almost pole vault to get into that thing. Was way to top heavy with the set-up, Turned it over on the side twice and once on top. changed it back to a spring under.

 

The Jeep that Dave B showed is way to purty to drag over rocks & stumps, tho. Or tip over!

Jon B.

 

Some of you may recall that I pulled the transfer case out to replace the gasket between it and the Novak SM465 adapter plate. Well…



Here we go again. It started leaking soon after I filled the transmission with lube. Here’s the cause:



That black blob is sealant. There’s a set screw in the unused hole in the plate. The transfer case can be installed in two locations, so the plate has two sets of holes, clocked about an inch apart. Since I’m a total noob at this, I installed the plate as it came, not checking that screw. It was loose, and unsealed, hence the leak.

I had a spare transmission gasket, so the plate is back on. I’m waiting for a new case gasket, though.



With the plate off.

Jon B.

 

It’s been a few weeks since any work has been done on the project. Our building project, farm work ( BIL had knee replacement in September, so I’m on the harvest crew some days) and Mrs. B.’s surgery - she had sinus surgery in July but ended up with a leaking brain (hole into the Dura, and Cerebrospinal fluid leaked into her sinus and out her nose) that needed repair. We went to Mayo In Rochester, MN to have that done. Three surgeons, four plus hours in OR, and now, weeks of recovery. And then my two-day work week involves two long 12+ hours per day. Anyway, I finally got out to the shop today!





The old Wheel House Notch modification. I was dreading it but it was kind of no big deal. My welder is about outa gas, though, so I’ll head to the vendor tomorrow.

Jon B.

 

Oh, my! More than a month since I reported any progress… The truth is that there’s been very little change.

I’m still puttering around on the tub. The ‘box’ corners are getting reinforced with 16 ga. sheet, bent at 90* and bolted/welded in.


And, I’ve started on the transmission’hump’ repair. This came from @RATTYFLATTY a while ago, off an old, early CJ5 (I think).



Jon B.

 

Jon, great work, I just got caught up. I have a few questions. Are you using the truck front accessory drive? If so, why not go with the mechanical fan? And why dual exhaust? I guess you have the room, so why not. Is that the in-tank fuel pump? The Truck Norris cam has me intrigued, as I am in the planning stages. I had thought about leaving the 5.3 stock. Are you going to rock crawl this thing, or more all-around driving?
Anyway, great job, and quite a project. i'll be following.