1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Metcalfs Electric Emergency Brake Kit

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by jeepstar, Feb 2, 2021.

  1. Sep 4, 2022
    Jw60

    Jw60 Airbender and interrupter of the light guard. 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Sedalia MO.
    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2008
    Messages:
    3,118
    Put the jeep on jack stands, press the brakes solid a few cycles then go around and spin the tires. The residual pressure valve should lock both sides of the axle and then continue per supertrooper's instructions, but switch the lines on the master cylinder before taking it off and make sure the locked wheels follows the master cylinder port.
    If only one wheel is having an issue or it does not switch rear to front I would start inspecting hoses for flow.
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2022
    justin_bongo likes this.
  2. Sep 4, 2022
    justin_bongo

    justin_bongo Member

    Pampa, TX
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2014
    Messages:
    94
    If my pushrod was a little long, and wasn't letting plunger all the way out at rest, would that cause my pedal to get increasingly hard and holding brakes on?
     
  3. Sep 4, 2022
    Jw60

    Jw60 Airbender and interrupter of the light guard. 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Sedalia MO.
    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2008
    Messages:
    3,118
    That could do it, put it on stands pump em firm then pull the rod off and see if everything spins freely.
     
  4. Sep 4, 2022
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2003
    Messages:
    7,651
    BTDT.

    Yes, as the brakes drag they get hot causing the brake fluid to expand. If the pushrod isn't allowing the M/C piston to come back far enough to reach the reservoir ports then line pressure will increase, making the brakes grab more, making more heat & repeat. Eventually you're locked up completely.

    After things have cooled down for a while you drive off like it never happened.

    Only to have it happen again a bit further down the road.
     
    justin_bongo and Fireball like this.
  5. Sep 5, 2022
    justin_bongo

    justin_bongo Member

    Pampa, TX
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2014
    Messages:
    94
    I pulled the spring, washer and rubber washer off of my brake pedal shaft and all seems good now. Drove it around, braking a lot, and nothing got locked up or got super hot. I think I'm gonna have to pull floor again to shorten rod and I should be able to re-install washer assembly. Thanks for the input guys. By the way, disc brakes rock, and the parking brake is awesome!

    When yall disengage your parking brake, are y'all running the motor all the way back or just enough to release?
     
  6. Sep 27, 2022
    BrianS

    BrianS New Member

    Kalifornia
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2022
    Messages:
    2
    At first I’d release the parking brake by pushing the momentary switch 3 or 4 times in the unlock direction and if I didn’t feel it was enough, I’ll push it 2-3 more times. Each push is 1 second. Now that I have dozens of uses on it, I find 4 pushes is enough to release no matter how soft or hard I apply them. When setting them, I don’t take it all the way to popping the circuit breaker. I’ve gotten close as I can hear my alternator slow down from the draw. When coasting (out of gear) at about 15 MPH and applying the parking brakes one click at a time, 3 clicks almost brings it to a stop and 4 will lock the brakes. One could count the number of seconds to apply and disengage and not do multiple pushes.

    My rule of thumb is lock it down on a sloped area and give it one more push down to secure it. Try it in different situations and slopes.

    I use an adjustable rod on the brake pedal to the master with a 1/16 air gap and a brake pedal spring to make sure no pressure is on the master.

    If the master cylinder is made for rear drums there’s probably a 10lb residual valve in it. Determine if there is one and remove it BEFORE mounting the cylinder. In Ford/GM versions it’s a spring and black rubber piece just behind the removable brass seat. If the seat is removable, take it out and confirm there’s not one in there. Don’t use a master cylinder made to attach to a power booster unless running the booster. The depth of the master cylinder piston if significantly deeper and requires a much longer push rod.

    The large side of the master reservoir is for the front brakes and there probably isn’t a removable brass seat. If your master has equal sides and both have removable brass seats, check them both. If pushing a tooth pick in one feels different resistance than the other, pull that one. What you are feeling is the rubber valve and spring.
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2022
    Fireball and justin_bongo like this.
  7. Sep 27, 2022
    justin_bongo

    justin_bongo Member

    Pampa, TX
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2014
    Messages:
    94
    I think I was messing up the calipers by running them all the way back each time. Theres a lot of very small ball bearings and springs inside these. I think it was over torquing them. The factory fords have a "matinance mode" that pulls the piston in further to replace pads. Lessons learned for sure.
    Thanks for the help.
    JT
     
    BrianS likes this.
New Posts