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Mission Impossible 1956 Cj5 Basket Case.

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Rodney, Jan 9, 2021.

  1. Jun 15, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    Some one on one of the forums was harassing me about still seeing yellow paint. So I spent the weekend and today sanding, wire wheeling, spreading Bondo and sanding again. Layer after layer of Yellow, white, red and the original Forest Green.
    Then I shot about 2 quarts of Red Oxide primer, inside and out.
    You can see the extent of the 3/16" diamond plate in the bed and fender wells. The front floors and tunnel are 1/8" diamond and 12 gauge steel plate. You can also see where I cut out the fender wells to push the seats back 6"
    Tailgate was replaced with a solid sheet of diamond plate and spare tire mount added to the rear with 4 new surface mount lights.
    Side armor was primered both side and will bolt on with Black Oxide Grade 8 Button head Allen bolts with stainless nylocks.
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2021
    AKjeff, Rich M., 73 cj5 and 1 other person like this.
  2. Jun 16, 2021
    SoCalNickG

    SoCalNickG Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Los Angeles, CA.
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    The black oxide coating on those bolts will not give you much in the way of rust protection. Once the oil is gone it will rust. I would suggest clean them well and paint them if you are going for a black look.
    Of course you can use stainless button head bolts, if you can find them. Stainless steel can be black oxide coated. Over time, outdoors and in the sun, the depth of black fades and you will end up a dark gray color.
     
    Rodney likes this.
  3. Jun 16, 2021
    johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    Quebec, Canada
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    Totally agreed. I'm selling bolts and nuts and all the black bolt are just bare metal bolt. As you said oil is there only to prevent rust.
     
    Rodney likes this.
  4. Jun 16, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    Fastenere I bought them from, claim the Black Oxide coating is corrosion resistant. I've ordered the same bolts in stainless for the dash. But I didn't want the shine on the diamond plate. I might have to shoot a coat of paint on them.
    I wanted a Matt Black look to the interior and diamond plate. Home Depot only had Gloss and Flat Black, so I bought both and mixed them. I'll see how it look tomorrow.
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2021
    Rich M., blalp!, Norcal69 and 3 others like this.
  5. Jun 17, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    I fired up my tractor today and drug the Rover Donor back onto the ramps so I could sit under it. It looked at first like a huge job to get the rear axle out.
    I used a sawzal to remove the exhaust and cut some bracket with 4.5" cut off wheels and of course had the 1/2" impact and air ratchet handy. Under 2 hours start to finish.
    I spent some time with de-greaser and the pressure washer and then rolled the axle into the shop and under the screeched CJ5 Frame.
    A few paper patterns and more cut, grind, weld repeat and it should be hung in place.
    The thing that surprised me the most, was the Land Rover drive shaft flange is the same bolt pattern and center bore as the Dana18
    And perfect timing, this show up in the mail today.
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2021
  6. Jun 18, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    I drilled and mounted the Diamond Plate Side Armor today. 50 1/4" x 20 gr 8 black oxide Button Head allen bolts, with stainless Nylocks and flat washers on the back side. I mounted the fender flares with stainless button heads and the same nylocks.
    I needed to get the fender flares on and find an accurate center line to measure back to the body mounts in the hat channels. I had lengthened the frame and added the CJ7 style gas tank and the new diamond plate moved the wheel opening back about 5", but I need to get a good measurement before I start to build the diff mounts for the coil springs and radius rods, and wishbone 3rd link.
     
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  7. Jun 19, 2021
    Andrew Theros

    Andrew Theros Member

    Los Osos, CA
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    Feb 24, 2021
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    And the poor dead Rover lies in the background!

    Fantastic work!
     
    Rodney likes this.
  8. Jun 19, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    Typical Rover. Just over 100K miles with a siezed up engine and axles that are just broke in.
     
  9. Jun 22, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    I dove back under the Rover today. I cut out the rear spring perch brackets and the Strut rod brackets. I only caught the Rover on fire twice. I did drain the tank and cut and crimped the fuel line and moved them out of the way. "I Thought"!!. I guess now I need to buy another new fire extinguisher.

    I ground and cleaned up the spring brackets and measured both frames again. The Rover is 1" wider than the CJ5. So I cut two pieces of 1/2" plate and welded the spring brackets to them.
    I measured and squared up everything. I clamped the plates with the spring perch in place.
    and once I got them where I wanted, I welded them in place.
    Lots of measuring and squaring everything up, chalk lines and the spring perches are in.
    Next I need to remove the factory cross member that is only held in with one rivet per side and the original shock mounts . So I can box the frame up to where the strut rod brackets will mount. Then I need to add a new cross member for the 3 link Wishbone to attach to, and build new mounts for the shocks.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2021
    AKjeff, givemethewillys and Fireball like this.
  10. Jun 23, 2021
    johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    Quebec, Canada
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    Nice :) coil spring conversion. You will love it.

    Dont know if it's in the plan, but i hardly suggest to box the entire frame. I broke my frame 6 times in within the first year.
     
  11. Jun 23, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    That was the plan
     
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  12. Jun 23, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    I didn't like the mounts that I cut off the Rover frame for the Strut Rods. They just didn't fit right and were just a lump hanging down, so into the bone yard they went. I had a 4" square tube crop the was about 22" long, so I split it diagonally, and welded a 1/2" plate to the end that I had drilled and tapped and cut a hole in the middle for the Rubber mount.
    I lined up everything and measured "twice at least", then used coil spring compressors and pulled doun the rear spring to approximate the ride height when loaded. Just a W.A.G. The welded the new mounts in place.
    If you draw a line through the Strut Rods and mounts and carry it forward, it intersects the engine at the fly wheel center. If I get the Wishbone mounted correctly it should also intersect at the same place. I would have liked to replace the stock Rover Struts with Long arms made from DOM tubing and Heim Joints, But that's down the road aways.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2021
    AKjeff, Fireball, Rich M. and 2 others like this.
  13. Jun 24, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    I cut out the original cross member under the bed and removed the old shock mounts today so I could Box the frame some more. I added weld-in threaded lugs for the shock mounts and mid body mounts. I then cut two pieces of 3/16"x 30" plate to box the frame from the new cross member over the axle up to the back of the transfer case.
    I then cut out some brackets from 3' square tubbing and fit them for the outside mounts for the 3 link wishbone's 3/4" mounting bolts. You can see one of the weld in lugs for the body mount in the next picture.
    Next I will add additional plates on the inside of the wishbone to the frame and gusset and box them in and add another cross member behind the transfer case far enough back to allow removal of the T/C
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2021
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  14. Jun 25, 2021
    johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    Quebec, Canada
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    I would make a suggestion. I would not use the bushing style that attach the axle arm to the frame. It's not intend to give lots of flexibility and can add a lot of stress on the frame. Also it can worn out the bushing real fast. You're would be better with a johnny joint style.

    I had the same style bushing on my early broncos radius arm and i'm realy happy to got rid of it.

    Good Example how long arm can move.


    904180_10151334832041621_847177768_o.jpg
     
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  15. Jun 25, 2021
    johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    Quebec, Canada
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    There is one thing i just tought i hope it could help

    You have set the arm angle with the frame without any weight on it. When you will have the full body with the roll bar, gaz tank, rear bumper, spare tire etc…the suspension will compress a good 3-4 inch. Also shock placement will be determined with full weight on it.

    If you plan on changing the coil at the end, just nevermind what i wrote
     
  16. Jun 25, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

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    Thanks for the comments, But No! I set the arm angle with coil spring compressors in place and screwed down fairly tight. I mentioned that in the text!
     
  17. Jun 25, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    P.G&E. Turned the power off on me for a few hours while they changed a Pole down the street. Since I couldn't weld I cut out all the frame "Boxing Plates" to finish all the way to the front. About 3:00 the power came back on, so I went back to welding and the Land Rover axle brackets are done and welded in place and the axle is bolted in.

    Once I get the front done, I will strip everything back off the frame and flip it over to finish a few gusset plates and finish the bottom welds. Everything underneath is at least spot welded or stitched, but will need to be finished before a final sand blast primer and paint.
     
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  18. Jun 29, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

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    I spent some time under the Rover Donor today, it's starting to look a little bare.
    I got the axle pressure washed and set down on furniture dolly so I could rool it under the CJ5. So far I don't see any deal breakers. Fornt axle is also 9" drop out style with an 8.62 ring gear and 24 spline axles.
    crossover steering stock along with front Track Bar and rear tie rod.
    The strut rods are pretty heavy duty cast steel units. and brakes a 4 piston claiper the same as used on some Jaguar's
    Hubs currently use Drive plates, but Locking hubs are available, and so are Eaton Trutrac's, Detroit Lockers and a British Locker. The same locker is used front and rear. Rear Axle is Full Floater and front and rear use the same wheel bearing set, knuckle seal kits are in the $20 range and a full set of Centric Ceramic brake pads front and rear are $20-30 on E-bay.
     
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  19. Jul 6, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    I picked up a used TJ P/S Gearbox this weekend. It's the short compact Mercedes built unit that some of you don't like. This one only has 40K miles with standard tires, so it should work for a while and Auto Zone now has rebuilts for $179. It fit in the frame way better than the Saginaw I've been messing with. So today I notched the Square tubing front bumper to get the rear mount pitman arm to line up with the new Rover tie rod. Then built two plates with 4" tubes welded in to sandwich the frame where I lengthened it.
    The gusset plate is where the old frame ends and the new begins. The mounting plate on the inside overlaps as well. I then used a hole saw and bored through the radiator/grill crossmember, and welded in a section of tubing for the steering shaft and u-joint to pass though.
    I will cover the entire front section from the front bumper to the grille and around the P/S box with diamond plate.
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2021
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  20. Jul 19, 2021
    Rodney

    Rodney Member

    Sierra Foothills
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    I cut the spring pockets out of the Rover Donor car, made up a set of strut rod mounts and got the front axle mounted in place.
    I shortened the tie rod and reamed the pitman arm to fit the larger tie rod taper. Then rolled the frame outside under the car port to mate it up with the body for the first time since February
    .
    I've gone from the 81" wheelbase of the 56 CJ5 to 93" and added the CJ7 fenders, grille for a larger radiator, and the Hood is on order with Summit Racing.
    I do have a minor engineering issue. The steering shaft from the gearbox to column doesn't line up with out notching the frame or adding another u-joint and bearing support. Still doable.
    It looks a little funny with 28" tires on it.
     
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