Fino's 58 Wagon

Its not good...the question will be how bad. I got the bottom cap off the #1 rod and looks like this:


I haven't looked at the journal yet, or any of the other rod bearings etc.....need a break...maybe a drink....

 

yup....crank journal is damaged...so the crank has to come out which basically means pulling the engine and pretty complete disassembly. Time to think about how to best move forward, if at all with this.....

 

you won't like it....no power brakes, no power steering with full lockers, D18 with OD, big mud tires that are noisey and chunked up and out of balance...but it has lots of road feel!
You bringing that TX D300 to Idaho?

 

I'd also like to know what was the cause....like was their an oiling issue due to my error with cleaning out oil galley or whatever, or did I miss improper clearance on this one rod bearing (plastiguage)....The torque on the rod bearing cap was appropriate when I removed it. I guess what I need to do next is inspect the other main and rod bearings and see if this issue was a one off, or if it is pervasive. I'd like to think it was maybe just that #1 rod was out of size/round just a bit and I missed it when checking clearances - plastiguage has to be pretty inexact? That will also give some indication of how much metal has moved through the system...If just the one bearing showing damage, couldn't I just get the crank machined (or new crank), the rods R&R'd, and new rod and main bearings properly over/undersized and re-assemble with all the essentially lightly used pieces....I guess I could consider a rebuilt/reman short block, especially if all the bearings are showing damage and lots of metal has moved through the system.

The rest of the engine was freshly machined, new pistons, new rings, rebuilt aftermarket heads with hardened valve seats and grind, and all new components (rockers, pushrods, springs, valves etc), all with less than 5000 miles. I think the cam and lifters made it through the break in period without issue - although this is the last 'new' flat tappet cam I deal with - roller cams only going forward. When rebuilding it, the machine shop suggested going with vortec heads and roller cam, but it wasn't it my budget, plus, getting the right alternator and AC bracketry for swp with vortec heads and intake was getting complicated. Oh well...its kind of like lighting $3k on fire....

 

probably because the builder didn't know what he was doing.....

 

i'll buy the 383 if you pay for the axles that I am going to need for that much torque....given my engine history, the 383 would die before the D25. I've owned 3 engines in jeeps, and I am now looking at dead engine #4. one day i am going to break an axle and be happy it wasnt an engine.