Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by ITLKSEZ, Aug 20, 2015.
Have you had much luck keeping spherical rod ends (heim) joints (like on the track bar) from getting rattly in a short while? Whenever I've used em, I always wished I went a different route. Are there different kinds that hold up better than others?
I've heard people have ok success with Johnny Joints if they're kept lubed, but at that price, I can replace these 3 times, plus they're readily available at any Grainger. I was hesitant to use a heim here, but I wanted at least one positive connection at the track bar for maximum control. The frame mount is rubber bushed.
I know what you mean about them getting loose. I ran a 4-link on my Willys PU for about a week (scary) before I switched it back over to leaf springs, and I used them for the rod ends. My upper links got recycled into a swing out tire carrier, then they eventually ended up as tie rod ends on my 3B, and that's where they are today. They're now 18 years old, and the steering is a little.... loose.
It is getting hard to get pictures of this because everything is closing in and becoming a little too close for comfort. I'll get a better pic of the mount when I take it back out to weld the perches on.
All my steering component are made with rod ends and they get loose pretty fast. Has to change them one a year. I have have johnny joint on my ford radius arm since the the beginning. They doesn't have any loose and they have around 5 years and i trail a lot.
For my steering component i have spare knukkle for my application, i'm going to use them with 1 ton TRE's. As for trac-bar i will use rubber bushing.
I understand it is getting hard to take pictures. The pictures you have taken show quite a bit of detail of the component you are working on. While taking the pictures and before you take it apart could step back a little to give a little better perspective of the area you are working on?
You bet. I'll pull the wheel off next time I'm down there.
Here's the coil/shock/track bar mount.
And here is a better explanation of how tight it is in there, and why the parts are shaped like they are. Full lock right:
And full lock left:
Here's a wider shot.
That last view helps put all those close up shots into perspective. Thanks. Keep up the good work.
I fabbed up some basic, (maybe not so) temporary frame mounts for the track bar. It is using 2x4s for front springs, but it is officially off jackstands and rolling for the first time!
View of track bar and drag link from out front:
I found one minor oversight. I'm going to have to tilt the spring and shock back just a hair to have room for an upper shock mount. It is very close to the headlight bucket, and will be tucked up in the corner of the hood.
This will be my last submission to this thread for a few months. I finally have some paying jobs lined up. (I might have to throw a tarp over it to stop thinking about it.) Thanks for following!
That upper shock/spring mount looks like it will be challenging with the space constraint. Based on your other work, though, I'm sure another piece of fine art is in the works...
The spring mount is covered; I have a plan for that, and I think it will be able to stay outside the fender. It looks worse than it is because when the spring is compressed, it will lose about 7 inches in height.
I plan on tying a cage in through the engine compartment to help stiffen everything up; I think the shock mount will get worked into that somehow. We'll see.
So very nice!
In an effort to save space in that already tight area, this might sound ridiculous but could the shock be mounted inside the spring? I'm not sure how much the coils are going to deflect and possibly contact the shock.
That doesn't sound like a bad idea. My Ram's front suspension is built that way.
That was my original plan, but when I moved the tie rod behind the axle...
Rams can pull that off because the springs are massive, and travel is fairly limited. The Cherokee springs are a bit narrow. To fit a long shock up and through them, the whole lower spring/shock mount would have had to be on a pivot to keep the shock from binding inside the spring under flex. I really didn't feel up to taking a risk on that experiment if I didn't have to. As much work as it was moving the tie rod, I think this is a better design. I'm glad I had a chance to correct the Ackerman angle, plus, the further forward (away from the radius arm pivot) I can get the shocks, the more dampening they will offer.
I think when it's all done, the shocks will actually end up in the perfect spot: tucked in the corner and not taking up any valuable space. I do think I'll run them upside down though, to keep any possible contact from the shock body to a "rub", rather than a "punch".
Thanks for the input.
Oops... I missed your "original plan" comment because I was too busy typing my zip tie joke.
I have a few days in between jobs; I figured I'd tackle something that was bugging me. Ever since I dropped this engine in place, I've been concerned about the exhaust dumping directly onto the front driveshaft. My original plan was to use the turbo manifold, but it's ugly and would have horrible flow properties. I like the design of the factory 4-to-2-to-1 pipes.
I did a little cut/bend/weld on the original design and got it to snake around the driveshaft and through my crossmember. Here it is, from mock-up to final piece. Not my finest work; I've nicknamed it Lumpy McLumptube. I'm still hoping to find a cheap donor car with a turbo, then this won't even be used. A simple 90° bend off of the turbo will replace this.
Cutting, bending and welding... Great solution.
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