rebuild or replace steering box

I have a '67 CJ-5 with a Buick 231. At some point someone upgraded the steering to a saginaw power unit. After replacing all tie rods and ends I still have a ton of play just in the box itself. Can it be rebuild or will I have to just replace it?

 

I don't know if your's can be rebuilt, but I recently had to replace a manual Saginaw box on my 1971 DJ. The cost to replace was minimal. AutoZone located a rebuilt unit with a lifetime warranty for 150 bucks... 200 dollar core charge, so save your old one.

 

Do a search for "Steering box adjustment and see what you come up with. I'm sure it's been discussed on the Forum. You may just have to adjust the pressure on the pitman shaft. Are you sure the play isn't in the steering shaft?

 

Yes, check the bell coupler (if you have one) or the rag joint (if you have one). There should be some kind of flexible joint in the steering shaft - these are notorious for wearing out and being sloppy.

Then the steering gear can be adjusted. The right way to do it is to remove it from the car and adjust it according to the shop manual instructions: end play first, then gear mesh. If adjustment does not help, you can rebuild or replace the gear.

 

There was an article in either JP or 4 Wheel and Off Road mag a couple years ago on rebuilding the saginaw box. It looks like fun but they're so plentiful and low $ at the junk yard I'm not sure it would be worth it to rebuild. I have not had any luck doing the adjustments mentioned above but it's worth a shot.

 

Ok thats for the input. I will try the adjustment first then if doesnt help I will go ahead with the rebuild. It doesnt look to complicated and just one more thing to put under the belt.

 

for $150 I'd just replace.

 

I have rebuilt one, but it was only leaking. The typical rebuild kit only contained seals and rubbers and you set the end play and mesh during the rebuild anyhow so I'd try doing just that first. If you try to do it make sure you have a micrometer to segregate the two different sized ball bearings in there, they go back in alternating in size.

 

If you have the time rebuild it. If the worm shaft and rack piston is in good order it will only cost you $25 for the kit.

Here is a box I rebuilt, disregard where I tapped for hydro steer.

worm shaft



rack piston



The kit runs about $25



Exploded view



Rack pinion installed, note: you can see the gully in the bottom hole the piston needs to be rotated a bit to move the gully edge to the left so the balls drop in.



16 balls installed in the piston. There are 12 chrome and 12 darker balls that have to be alternated while installing. The chrome balls are 9/32 and the darker balls are .001 larger. The smaller chrome balls allow the oil to pass.



The last 6 balls have to be installed in the ball guide. You can use assembly lube although I was able to install them without the lube first try.







Side note: in most cases the kit will not come with a pitman shaft bearing. My bearing was in good condition however, if needed most any machine/bearing shop will have one.

 

Thanks for posting Chuck - looks like a fun project.

 

If you are handy.. I'd say rebuild it. I've worked on them, and I enjoyed doing so. Theres a few special tools you'll need.. some of them you can make.

Heres a link to adjustment procedures:

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/PowerStrgGear(4).jpg