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Voltage Regulator?

Discussion in 'Jeepster Commando and Commando Tech' started by IndyClassic, Jul 23, 2011.

  1. Jul 23, 2011
    IndyClassic

    IndyClassic New Member

    Kingman, AZ
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2011
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    Hey guys,

    Please forgive me for my first post being a troubleshooting question. I will try to post pic's and do an introduction in appropriate thread are this weekend.

    Purchased a running, somewhat rebuilt 1967 Jeepster convertible. Noticed the amp dash light flickered on the other day and lasted for 15 minutes or less. 4 hours driving since I purchased it this was the first time it happened. Today it starts and runs fine, no dash light.

    Testing the volts however I get up 14.5 - 15.5 volts at the battery while running. Jump to the alternator post and it was 13.8. Test again with lights on and back up to 15, lights off 15.5. I seem to have a moving target but one consistent is a high voltage output.

    My suspicion is the volt regulator on the fender, not the alternator. Until I get my manual off ebay.....hoping someone can help. Current regulator is a VR32. Autozone has these but they are not listed as for the Jeepster V6. As a matter of fact they do not list one available.

    The Jeepster has had some wiring done, looks like a decent job, by previous owner(s) so I am questioning the VR32 or if there might be another cause I am overlooking?

    Sorry for the length and Thanks!
     
  2. Jul 23, 2011
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    First thing first- make sure the regulator is well grounded. Take it off & clean up the mounting tabs & body sheet metal so it's nice & shiny. While you're at it clean up the cable connections as well.

    & Welcome!

    H.
     
  3. Jul 23, 2011
    IndyClassic

    IndyClassic New Member

    Kingman, AZ
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2011
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    Good idea.....will do that right away. I do not have the service manual yet so I am assuming these have separate regulators (from the alt) and this isn't something a previous owner rigged in?
     
  4. Jul 23, 2011
    IndyClassic

    IndyClassic New Member

    Kingman, AZ
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2011
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    OK, cleaned all points of contact including where it bolts on fender well. 15 volts to batt with eng on and 14 volts to batt with eng on and lights on. Get same reading at alternator post.

    Going to replace the regulator just hope the VR 32 is the right one. Thanks for the idea and great looking CJ 5!
     
  5. Jul 23, 2011
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    The original alternator would have been a Motorola with external regulator (jeep p/n 945228), no idea what a VR22 is for but along the way most of the Mororola's got replaced by Delco's.

    If no joy on the grounding I'd say stick a Delco one or three wire SI in'er.

    H.
     
  6. Jul 23, 2011
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    That's not that far off, for modern batteries/charging systems you want to be running 14.5-ish anyhow. The original equipment would have been about a volt less than that.

    H.
     
  7. Jul 23, 2011
    IndyClassic

    IndyClassic New Member

    Kingman, AZ
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2011
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    Did not know that. Been a long time since I wrenched on something this old and I was sure 13.5 - 14.3 tops and the 15 could cook the battery. Maybe I better re-consider.
     
  8. Jul 23, 2011
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2003
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    as Howard has mentioned, the original factory set-up is Motorola, with a sealed, solid state box type regulator.
    This set-up was only rated at 30 or 42 amps max I believe.
    When the time comes, upgrade to a Delco unit, do-away with the external regulator, and upgrade the amps to at least 63 or more, it's your choice.
     
  9. Jul 23, 2011
    IndyClassic

    IndyClassic New Member

    Kingman, AZ
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2011
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    I am seeing that now and really appreciate you guys helping a "newbie." If these were Harleys I'd have it down pat! I just tagged onto this thread in the older J5 threads. It almost looks too simple (going to page 2 I think for the O'Reilly/Delco alternator) but if this is all it takes to eliminate the regulator and get more amps......what a deal! Is this what you guys are referring too and do I have the wiring question correct?

    http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/show...ng-1966-Dauntless-V6-with-Motorola-Alternator
     
  10. Jul 23, 2011
    IndyClassic

    IndyClassic New Member

    Kingman, AZ
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    Thanks jp and Howard, after your direction "how-to" was only thing holding me back. Found a link on the conversion..........the old Motorola is out and I will be picking up the Delco si this evening.

    Thanks again for your help.

    Installed this AM and it works perfect! Old regulator gone and the AMP light still works as tested before turning to start. What a deal.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2011
  11. Jul 28, 2011
    countryboy

    countryboy New Member

    Central Illinois...
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    Jun 22, 2007
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    A couple years ago either in this forum or on the cj5 there was a post on how to wire in a fusable link to the new alternator. There were picture and all. Might want to look that up. I think I may have the link at home.
     
  12. Jul 29, 2011
    IndyClassic

    IndyClassic New Member

    Kingman, AZ
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    It is running great now but no fusible link........not a bad idea at all. If you find the link please post or pm to me. Thanks!
     
  13. Jul 29, 2011
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    There's nothing magical about a fuseable link, it's just a section of smaller guage wire that will "burn up" first before the rest of the wiring harness gets hot enough to cause problems. If your alternator is wired with 6 guage wire to the output splice in a few inches of 8 gu. Throw a piece of fireproof sleeve over it & you're done. "Real" fusible links with fireproof insulation are available at autoparts stores.

    More info-

    http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/electrical-links.html

    H.
     
  14. Jul 29, 2011
    Pack Rat

    Pack Rat Old Timer

    I live in a...
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    I've never seen any vehicle with a fusible link between the alt and the battery and I'm just not seeing any advantage to having one. Main power feeds to accessories etc yes, but to the alt? You want a heavy gauge wire that will stand up to heavy loads while charging. Anyone care to enlighten me?
     
  15. Jul 29, 2011
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    You are correct. As a rule, the output of the alternator is not fused. The fusible link is placed from the battery terminal (+) to a fusible link than on to the power distribution center.
     
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