First Jeep-first post, advice and help please

I decided to take a different road at this stage in my life and bought my first Jeep. It's a 1960 CJ5 4 cyl F-Head Hurricane 134 cid. It has four floor shifters and the person who I purchased it from is older than me. I figured out the second shifter is overdrive and that works fine when I need a little more from 2nd to 3rd. Not sure on how down shifting pattern goes. Do I shift OD first than manual shifter? I would like to start with a oil change and it does get hot here in the summer. What would be your choice for oil brand/weight?
Here come the lame questions, is there just one drain plug? How many qts does it hold? I did figure out it takes a drop in filter woo-who I got one right. Any way I'm really looking forward to having some fun with our new addition. I'll add photos.
Thanks Jake

 

Welcome to the fun on having a JEEP!
If the overdrive that is on your rig is a Warn ,then the beauty of it is the fact that it can be used at any time. The Warn O/D is mounted on the back side of the transfer case of the left side. Since the O/D is mounted between the transmission and the transfer case ,one needs only to use the clutch to slip it from under and over drive. It sure increases the range of gears.

Ed :tea:

 

Congratulations on the Jeep purchase, more kudos for a pic on your first post and a welcome to the site.
Oil change is 5 qts with filter so sez the FSM.
I always check the lube levels and lube condition on vehicles I just bought.
Buy a fsm (factory service manual).
Enjoy.

 

Thank you for the reply, after I degrease the bottom I'll see if it's a Warn. Let me see if I understand this and please correct me if I'm wrong. Is it OK to drive around town with the OD in high and just shift first, second and third?

 

Nice Jeep.

As a first timer, be aware that these are not highway speed vehicles. Overdrive can help prevent over-revving, but please don't be tempted to keep up with traffic on the interstate!

Drain plugs - only one on the engine...but bail out the oil filter canister when you change filters. You will also want to monitor oil levels in the transmission, transfer case, both front steering knuckles, and both differentials. Oh, and the oil-bath air cleaner if you are lucky enough to have one!

The F-head is great off-road at moderate speeds. I'm 59 and still driving the same one I learned on as a teenager.

 

You may find that just leaving the overdrive in high for your on road driving and in low for your off road will probably work best for you.

And don't run her faster than 60 mph, the early CJ's really were not built for it.

 

Thanks for the welcome and the reply! Is there a sponser or vender on this forum we can support for a FSM? And yes I'm going over the Jeep to check the vitals.

 

I'm 61 and planning to add more years to this frame..I want to enjoy some back road views with my wife...low and slow.

 

Drain plugs - only one on the engine...but bail out the oil filter canister when you change filters. You will also want to monitor oil levels in the transmission, transfer case, both front steering knuckles, and both differentials. Oh, and the oil-bath air cleaner if you are lucky enough to have one!

What weight and brand would you suggest for the above?
Thanks!

 

There has been lot's of discussion on motor oils and gear caase lubes.
You might try the search function, you could find a lot of opinions there. (I think it's still up on top, somewhere)
It seems like many of the members use Rotella 15-40, Delvac 15-40 (diesel oils), they are supposed to still have some more of the zinc and phosphates needed for flat tappet motors. Others have said that most modern oils have other additives to replace the Zn & Ph.
I run a 80-90-140 GL4 in the gear boxes, it's a bit thick at -20 but warms up in a mile or so. Some say that the GL5 lubes aren't good for the brass parts in the boxes.
In a Jeep of your age, it's almost a given that you have a Warn OD, not a Spicer. The Warn will work in any gear, reverse or foreward, 2 or 4 wheel drive. Iusually leave mine in OD while driving but you can certainly shift it as needed for your conditions.
FSM's, ignore the Chiltons and Haynes, find a real reprint, a search should find some sources. The only one I have here is actually for my Commando and gives no info as to the publisher.
Hope this helps.

John

 

Congrats on the new Jeep! It's a beaut.

FWIW, I've done some reading and talking w/fellow gearheads (both on and offline) about oils and ZDDP, and this is my 2-cent's-worth;

My daily driver is an '85 GMC C3500, equipped with a 454 - in my opinion, a big, flat-tappet engine that needs good, heavy-duty lubrication. I've tried Valvoline 20W50 VR-1 racing oil (has adequate ZDDP levels), conventional Valvoline 10W30 w/ZDDPlus additive, and I'm currently using Schaeffer's Supreme 7000 synthetic blend 15W40 - 20W50 never let the oil pressure needle drop below 45 lbs., and 10W30 was just too thin for my taste, when I need to tow heavy loads at 60 MPH in hot weather - so I wanted to try a 15W40 weight oil, halfway in between those two weights, and see how it did. When I heard that oils like Rotella 15W40 have higher ZDDP levels, I asked several people what they thought about that; several opinions said that diesel oils, like Rotella 15W40, are specifically diesel oils and have extra additives (for soot/deposit control, etc.) that gas engines don't need (and may not exactly benefit from) because they run cleaner than diesels do. So I asked a friend that's not just a shadetree mechanic (no insult to shadetree mechanics - I'm one myself), and he said that is true, and that one non-diesel 15W40 oil he knew of was Schaeffer's - so I tried it. In my truck, it's done just about what I'd like an oil to do - my oil pressure is stable (the needle doesn't drop further as the engine gets hotter, when towing) and I've been told from several sources that it has good levels of extreme-pressure additives like ZDDP. (I think their proprietary additive, "Moly", is also considered an EP additive.)

Sorry for the book! That's just what my research has turned up, and has a very high likelihood of being incorrect to some extent or another. When discussing ZDDP, you can get as many different opinions and suggestions as the number of ways Jeeps have been used over the years - so, if you care to, do your own research and see what you think for yourself. As for me, if 15W40 is the recommended weight to use in my Go-Devil, I'll probably use Schaeffer's. It costs me $6.25 a quart, but if i can do without the $9-a-bottle ZDDP additive and change it a little less often because it's a synthetic blend (I'm figuring 3,500 miles, rather than 3,000), it's no more expensive than conventional Valvoline 10W30 with a bottle of ZDDPlus.

 

I was just about in bed, i started wondering about the GL4/GL5 stuff I mentioned.
I need to double check these grade classifications. I'm not sure about it tonight.
I tried to find the search button, I couldn't find it now, I'll ask a moderator, see if it's up yet..
A few years back, a friend of mine that built race motors for motorcycles was having problems with the cams being eaten up during races.
He called the cam manufacturers and at that time, the only oil they recomended was Kendall.
I'm sure some others have an opinion, we'll see tomorrow.

 

You should have fun with that. I'm new to this as well.

Picked-up my service manual from Turner (http://thejeep.com). Search for TSM-Early or TSM-Late. I also bought Moses' Rebuilder's Manual, but would hold off on that one unless you plan on doing a body off frame rebuild.

Word of caution on the airbath-- support the bottom as you un-screw the clamp, or it falls loose and makes a mess. For the oil filter, they recommend using the same oil in the engine. In my case, it's Mobil 10W-30.

 

Engine view