Keep SOA or replace with 4" lift?

I have searched, read numerous posts and at this point I suffer from information overload and massive indecision. A PO did a SOA swap and I'm quite unhappy with his solution to the tie-rod/spring clearance (lack of) problem. My springs also appear to be worthless as they are almost flat.

The easiest solution appears to be just installing a 4" lift which should solve both issues. Since many of you have traveled this path, any input is appreciated.

 

If you're going to stay 33 or smaller, the 4in lift would be the best thing to do.
Whatever you do, new springs and some type of traction bar is needed. The spring has that "S" shape from spring wrap.

I'd also change it over to sagnaw steering either way you go. If you keep the SOA, a 4" drop pitman arm will help clear the springs.

 

I am a new guy with jeeps but I do know that is just wrong.

I have a few questions related to this thread.
Is it advisable/ safe to lower the bellcrank?

Would a tie rod between the left and right knuckle using the odd tie rod end on the right side, and a drag link going from the bell crank to the oddball tie rod end help iron out some of the squirrely steering?
Is it wrong to actually enjoy not knowing what the steering is going to do at the next bump?

 

Your steering does look scary. tie rods are not even straight, that would help. Never have used the old bell crank set up before, but from what I have read it is junk and you will always have trouble with it. as for the SOA set up, I have used that and in my opinion, I would go with the 4-inch lift. The axle wrap problem is worse on shorter wheelbase vehical, especially a cj-5 which is what I had mine on. Just going up hills off road made the rear spring wrap up all the time, or just taking off to quickly on the street. If it were me, I would look into a siginaw steering swap first, Lots of information on this site about that. your safty should be #1 concern right now, your ride comfort and off road ability should come second. you can get your lift later and you will have time to decide which way you want to go while your doing the steering. Just my opinion.
good luck.

 

Thanks for the input/advice. Since I plan on keeping 33" tires I will just get a 4" lift (current favorite, Superlift SUPK712). Since I will need to replace the "modified" tie rods I am also looking at the 1 piece tie rod conversion. For those with tie rod/spring interference, did the degree shims solve the problem for everyone or has anyone needed to flip the rod to get clearance? Also, are the right and bell crank ball joints interchangeable or do I need to get something like Herm's kit.

Sorry for all the questions, I hate getting into the middle of a project and finding out I have no idea of how to finish it.

 

The bellcrank with Ross steering is ok, but a lot of effort if you want to go with larger-than-stock tires. Don't try to lower it from the frame though.

 

Yep, that's a nice piece of engineering! The bent tie rods were necessary to clear the springs and the bell crank TRE appears to be near it's maximum swivel without any droop. I think if it were mine, I would be checking the bell crank mounting very carefully for cracks. I certainly wouldn't be driving it like that but that is just me. Also looks like either a leaking wheel cylinder or, more likely, the wheel seal on the left front which will not help either the turning or stopping functions.

 

Well, I did drive it for less than 200 miles and with worn out bell crank bearings, it was never boring. I checked the mounting when replacing the bearings and everything seems good, no cracks and tight rivets. I have new felt seals, I just haven't gotten that far yet. Learning about knuckle pudding reduced the mess considerably. I checked the hub side seals when repacking the bearings and they are good and the brakes are staying clean.

My searches have shown several veterans are running a 1 piece conversion with the Ross box and bell crank. I don't know if it's luck or a well done rebuild in the past but the Ross and link are very tight and in good shape so I think I'll try this solution first and upgrade to Saginaw if/when needed.

Thanks again to everyone for the input.

 

I ordered a Superlift spring set a few years back but sent it back. It was supposed to be a 4" lift but it actually had less arch than the 2" springs I was replacing. I went with the Skyjacker Soft Ride springs and was really happy with them. The downside (there always is one) to 4" lift springs is the shackles go through a rather large range of motion. I was replacing spring bushings almost every season. It depends on how much offroad use you will be doing. I eventually went with a springover (using the correct parts) because I wanted the nice ride of the flat springs but still have enough lift for 35" tires. For anything other than a restoration, I'd scrap the Ross steering. Even a manual Saginaw setup is miles ahead of the stock steering. Every pivot point on the Ross system (and there are many) add a little slop to the steering. I rebuilt mine and was never happy with the results. If you are going to straighten out the tie rod setup I'd recommend treating the entire steering as one unit and do it all, not just the tierods.

 

Thanks everyone.

w3srl, That is my plan and I have already contacted Herm. He also thinks the current setup is "scary".

Howard, I had no idea the springs would be of any value but I will now save them to post on the classifieds after they are off.

Posimoto, points taken. Unfortunately (for me), I tend to procrastinate if the project gets too complicated, so I try and do upgrades in steps to minimize the repair downtime. In case the Ross doesn't work out, I am already looking into the Saginaw conversion.

 

Toss my hat in the scary steering pile. Go with a cross over steering. There are tons of examples on here and other sites of what to and what not to do to make the upgrade a easy one.