spring end alignment

Been trying to repl. spring bushings on my 60 cj5.Spent all of yesterday with the front ones;ended up torching out the metal insert.Then couldn't get the spring end to align up with the shackle.After using 2 bottle jacks,and finally forcing the bolt in (16 lb sledge) I thought before I tackle the rears;someone has to have an easier way. I'm thinking of taking off the U bolts to make the ends align easier;I hate to go the U bolt removal route,don't want to twist off a nut,then have to buy new U bolts. Any suggestions? Thanks

 

they can be tough. just tried to loosen my rear shackle bolts the other day and twisted off the nut. I had same problem aligning things up to get new bolt in. same thing when I put new lift on another jeep. you method seems to be the only way that I know of. I used a pry bar to align the spring and shackle and hammered the shackle in to place. good luck and keep trying. seems once they are on, it all works out ok though. maybe someone else has some tricks to suggest.

 

When I did mine I had the Jeep up on jackstands, which would allow the suspension to hang free. A jack under the differential allow you to lower the whole assy. If you do one side at a time, support the axle assy. You want to be rid of any pressure on the spring so you don't have to force anything. You should be able to put the shackle on the spring, and use the jack to just raise it up where it needs to be. If you have one side on the ground with weight on it you're trying to fight the articulation and side forces on the spring. Test fit the bolts through the bushings/inserts before you get started so you're not caught with a bolt that don't fit when you finally got everything lined up.

 

Just loosen the u-bolts enough so you can align the spring bolts. Tighten the u-bolts last.

 

Thanks for the advise; I don't hav jack stands,just a couple short pieces of 5x6,8 or so 4x4's. I worked part of the day on the L rear;now just the R rear to do. Thankfully
I hav a torch,as between that and lots of chiseling,and me running out of gas I got # 3 done. I will try on # 4 to jack up the frame and block it right infront of the stationary shackle on both sides to get the tension off.

 

A set of decent jackstands is not expensive. We don't want to see the headline "ECJ5 member crushed by falling Jeep"!

 

Buy new U-bolts and just replace them.
Then you don't have to fight the weight of the axle along with the spring. Plus lining up both sides at the same time.
Two jack stands under the front of the frame right behind the rear spring hanger mount for the front, and two jack stands holding the axle up out of your way.

Much easier to drop the pins in the spring pads on the axle into place than to line up 4 bolts to the spring mounts.

I would think though, that the shackles would have enough swing to them to be able to jockie things into position.
Slow and easy, one thing at a time.

 

Thanks for all the input; got the last one done today;went to harbor freight,intent on buying a cheap 3 lb sledge to give me some more umph! in driving out the old bushings.I saw an air chisle for the same price (9.50) so I went for that;still had to use the torch,but got it done.
Only dissapointment,was I saw the frame was broken ,right where the rear shackle is;and lots of rust. I started to look to see who sold frames,and how much they are, I shudder @ how much they might be. Haven't found one listed as of yet( tried Kaiser,and Walack's) May see if it can be welded up and compare the cost.

 

Or if you can weld, just build your own frame.

It doesn't actually have to have the bends in it the original does, but maybe pedestals made up to fit the places like the rear behind the seats. Shackle/spring mounts at the same distance from the front, and engine mounts. Then crossmembers welded in at the approximate location of the originals. Except the on used for mounting the T-case/Transmission combo. That one bolts in.

 

Where are you located? Not listed in your profile. We weld!

 

A little far from you,looks like you're in TX; I currently live just East of Phoenix,AZ( town called Gilbert) I'm not a welder;I hav an oxy/acet setup;but my knowledge is just above scary,I usually make the job worse. Will ponder next move.Thanks

 

Post up pictures of your cracks. Cracks in the frame are a common problem with CJs, and you'll get the benefit of lots of hands-on experience if you post up the specifics here.

My feeling is you'll be best off to seek out an experienced welder in your town and have her/him weld up your cracks. Adding a little new steel may be a good idea, but can't advise on specifics without a better assessment of the problem.