"Tricks to remove old exhaust bolts?"

Its come time to replace the exhaust system .
Who has the best trick to breaking loose the bolts
between the manifold and exaust pipe? I'm in the process
of soaking the nuts with CB Blaster now but they are really
froze on. Rather not twist one off if possible.
I know everyone has gone through this before, so I've surrounded
my self with expert resourceful jeepers..

 

Make sure to use a 6 point socket. Not only do the bolt rust tightly due to the extreme changes in temperature attached to the exhaust manifold, but in addition, the nuts also lose some of their diameter. A 12 point socket or open end wrench will just round the corners. You have a better chance with a 6 point socket, or you may get a better fit with a somewhat smaller metric socket.

I have a tool called a nut splitter which is a tool used to drive a chisel into a nut to split it down one side, which works really well if there is room for the tool.

I've also split nuts with a chisel lenthwise along the thread to get them off.

I usually replace the nuts once I get them off with brass nuts, which won't rust onto the steel bolts. Makes it alot easier the next time you have to take it apart.

 

"Kroil" brand penetrating oil.

Ditto on the six point socket--------and if that is still loose, try some metric sizes, you might get lucky.

 

Torch. #1 priority tool of any garage.

 

I thought that was a BFH

 

It is in mine!

 

x2 on the aerokroil, this is actually the best penatrating oil on the market.. ...( the oil that creeps ) the sad part is you can only find it in the industrial industry. i havent been able to find it in the local flaps and they cant order it..i use it sparingly only gotta a few cans left...R)

 

Hot wrench chainsawguy

 

doesnt have any of his penetrating oil use fuel (diesel) the nothing better for penetration but come with the bad smell....

 

PB Blaster works pretty darn well too...but not much for me is a substitute for heating something red hot.

 

Several people said torch to heat up the nut/bolt. They are right but what no one said is to WAIT until it cools completely before trying to turn anything.
The reason why it works is the heat expansion breaks loose the rust between the threads. That same heat expansion will have the threads in interference fit until it cools COMPLETELY, like you can keep your fingers on it cool.

Done carefully you can also get studs out of a block the same way. Concentrate the heat on the stud, get it up to red heat while trying to minimize the block heating. After it cools down sometimes you can back them out with your fingers. Old Millwright trick.

Don

 

Thats the way to do it when you understand heat work it to your advantage

 

X2 on the torch and 6 point socket, I think a 12MM socket is slightly smaller than 9/16 and that is what I used but a torch works great, If it's really stuck I heat the nut until it looks like it is starting to melt and get a socket on it as soon as possible. I haven't been able to get enough heat out of a propane torch so oxyacetylene is needed.

 

Hey larry i use propane insted of acetylene safer and easy to get filled.

 

x2 on the propane.. cheaper too.. just takes a little more time to get it heated up..this has been a long time practice on the farms and what not. and you dont need to change your regulator.. waht actually cuts your metal is the oxygen at high pressure.

 

14mm is slightly smaller than 9/16 (9/16 = 14.2875mm)
12mm is slightly smaller than 1/2 (1/2 = 12.7mm)

 

Actually it isn't too tough to find. If no other place, try

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Penetrating-gallon-loosen-frozen/dp/B00361Y0RE