My '50 3A Build

Looks oddly familiar ...

Though this 5 won't ever be going back together. Next on the list is to pull the motor and tranny/tcase, yank the axles and pull off any more salvageable small parts and send the rest to the scrap yard. The frame may be salvageable, but I wont know until the rest of the tub is gone.
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For the Flatty, the compact Jeep Cherokee pedals work really well. They are dirt cheap at the auto wrecker and fit with very little modding. I picked up my set of pedals from the pick a part for $30 with the clutch master and the brake booster and master.



You just need to trim a bit off the top of the support bracket (about an 1 1/2") so that you can get them up high enough under the dash. Then just add a bit of metal to reach the dash face so they are supported at the firewall and the dash.




I had a st of YJ pedals that were free but this was much easier to fit under the dash of the flatty. The other problem with shortening a set of YJ or CJ5/7 pedals is that it ends up messing with the geometry of the pedals and effect the leverage ratio and swing. The CJ pedals you have just aren't a great fit for a flatty. Looking like a fun project there. Good luck. You can find a little more details of how I fit my pedals in my flatty buildup post here. http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60125
Greg

PS. I am going to have to do a post just on doing the compact Jeep Cherokee pedal install with detailed pictures of the complete install as this question seeps to come up often. When I have a chance to pull my pedals out again I will snap some pictures that show what I had to do to make them fit.

 

Greg, those cherokee pedals look like they'd fit much better, im just not sure how the booster would work with the drums. Im going to stick with the 9" drums for the short term to get it on the road. Im guessing they'd be okay together ...though maybe there would be a tendency to lock up the drums? Id probably also have to do some monkeying with the residual pressure valve, right?
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I am really not too sure about the boosted drum brake setup. I am thinking that it should work with residual pressure valves. I am sure other master cylinders could fit that booster as well or with minor mods you could just mount a master cylinder without a booster. The only problem there would be that unboosted brakes usually have a different leverage ratio on the pedal to give a strong brake feel. You would need to move the push rod closer to the pivot point. Maybe some others will chime in with some more info. All I can say is the pedals will fit much easier. The booster setup is much better for the future brake upgrades as well. It might be worth snowballing it into a front disk brake upgrade as well. It is all tough to do on a budget for sure. Good luck.
Greg

 

Yeah, im not real sure about the booster either. The long term goal is to find a d30 and go the front disc route with power brakes, but the budget Sorta demands that I work with what I have.
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Yup, you are right there. I wasn't thinking. You shouldn't need residual valves with the master cylinder mounted in the high position as it will have enough head pressure. I really don't see why the booster shouldn't work with the drum drum setup.
Greg

 

Well maybe ill give it a shot. Ill have to take a trip to the junkyard And see what I can come up with.
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I have a little bit of time off around the holidays, so im going to see what I can get done on the flatty. The fuel tank and skid plate have arrived, I've gotta get to work on those pedals, and finish welding in the hat channels and floor pans. Its tough work out in the elements this time of year, plus the short days...

The dauntless in the 5 abruptly quit the last time I messed with it, so I wanted to look at that today and see what happened. Looks like was just out of gas. The ratty old tank seems to have sprung a leak, so its probably leaked more fuel over the last couple days than its burned. So it seems to run pretty well, though im pretty sure it has some piston slap going on. Very noticeable at idle. Sigh.

I also noticed that this 5 is canadian. Its got both kaiser of windsor, Ontario tags on the firewall. Geez, I hope I didn't bob a rare piece! Good thing the bed floor is still in the trash can where I left it...
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Me too.

 

I wonder if the problem was the red paint...

Anyway, I haven't hardly had time to work on either of the Jeeps lately, every weekend has been chock full. And the first one I have off, it snows all over my workshop! Its tough having to wrench in the driveway and in 6 inches of snow, so again, I didn't get done what I wanted to. But every little bit helps.

I finally gave up trying to burn in the engine frame mounts with my little welder, and in the interest of cutting down on the heating/cooling cycles making my frame weaker and weaker, I just bolted the mounts in. Piece of plate on the other side of the frame rail and voila! I know, with nothing to tighten against on the inside of the frame rail, the bolts will never really tighten up, but I figure that its good enough to take it for a ride to a reputable welder. This does mean, however that next week I should be able to get ahold of a cherry picker and transplant the motor and such into the flatty, now that I have mounts that will support the weight of the engine. This may be wishful thinking, but thats what got me involved in Jeeps anyway.

 

Latest update:

Between MLK day and this past weekend, I got quite a bit done on the jeep. I borrowed my friend and his engine hoist and was able to yank the v6 from the 5 and drop it onto the 3A. That was our final act of the day last Monday, so I didn't get back to it until this weekend. I did some puttering around on Saturday and I think I have the pedal bracket from the '76 cut down enough so that it will work with the flatty. Will have to get a pic of it. Now its on to the pedals themselves...

I also found out the hard way yesterday exactly how different the T14 is from the T86 in relation to how it mounts. I had mocked and measured everything up according to how the T86 sat, and I suppose I never even thought that the T14 hooked to the running dauntless would not only have a different mounting boss, but that the whole member was different. The transfer case had an L bracket that mounted to the frame rail, and I thought it was just a hokey fix to make something work in a pinch. In retrospect, it was probably factory, though I'm sure someone who knows much more about it will be along to correct or confirm.

Anyway, I made the T14 work with the T85 mount and crossmember. The T86 crossmember already had about 25 holes drilled in it, so I figured it would be most conducive in relation to fitment and so on and so forth. The original schedule was to bolt up the transmission to the crossmember, drill the motor mounts and finally bolt that in, and see where I'm at with the tub and everything. The little hiccup with the different trannys cost me most of the morning, and by the afternoon I was mostly frozen after working outside in the 15 degree weather. So, here are some pics for those faithful enough to be reading this.

The big accomplishment:





The offending mount, with the T14 happily mated to the T86 Z bracket:



Looks like I may have even measured right. Bonus.

 

No pics? Just red X's.

 

Haven't gotten a lot done lately. As much as its been snowing, its a chore just to get to the jeep, let alone do any work on it. This is what building a jeep in the winter in Connecticut in 2011 looks like:



I had to dig out around the '69 and make myself a back door to the flatty. Once in, I had to dig out around it. Made me feel like I was 8 again. My snow fort is better than yours, it has a jeep in it.



Anyway, on to the work. I'm still lining up the tub/engine/tranny before I drill any (new) holes, I want to get this right and square as possible. So the column went back in, steering shaft got hooked up again, just to go over everything once more.





I have the pedal bracket all set, next will be to shorten the pedal arms and make them fit with the column. Of course, it would be nice to have seats in this thing, so I can have an idea about just how uncomfortable a 6'2" guy is going to be driving this thing. This is what I'm running up against:



Thats the seat riser from the '69. I'd like to use the seats from the 5, but this riser is obviously too wide. What have you flatty guys done to make the seats from the 5 work?

 

looks like it is time for a garage

 

Tell the landlord that. I think he pushed all the snow in front of them so the neighbors wouldn't complain...