Separating the tcase from its transmission.

Any suggesstions? Its out and just sitting there. I've been told to keep it in gear and that rear nut on the back of the output shaft should come off. Will all those gears stay in place? I'm not going surfing after class today I'm going to play mechanic.

 

That's the way to do it. Remove the nut and the gear behind it first. Everything else will stay in place. Then remove the 5 bolts holding the tcase to the tranny, and the bolt on the torque arm. It's easier to pull the tcase off if you put the tranny and the tcase in neutral so that the gears can easily de-mesh (is that even a word?)

 

Thanks, but where's neutral on a twin stick?

 

Put the right hand stick in the middle position

 

Yup, that's what you never take the 5 bolts out until the input gear has been removed. You've done that too huh?

 

I'm not sure why this rudementary task is giving me problems but, I have the tranny in gear but the output shaft still spins. I need to remove that rear nut in order to remove the tcase from its tranny correct? I cannot figure out how to keep the output shaft from spinning. I need to somehow secure the output shaft to remove the rear nut (the one behind the plate on my t-case - where an overdrive would be installed.) Without an impact wrench how can I do this? The tranny/t-case assembly is on the garage floor not bolted up to the bellhousing. I tried putting in reverse, first, second and third but no such luck.
Do I need to bolt up the tranny/t-case to the bellhousing in order to separate the tranny from the t-case? If that's the only solution I'll not be happy.

 

I got it. Putting it in any gear doesn't do a damn thing. But I was able to remove it.

 

Next time stick a screwdriver inbetween the teeth of two gears and you will be able to remove the nut without the shaft spinning. Or you could use an impact gun.

 

An even better way is to remove the shift cover and manually lock the trans in two gears. This will lock up the mainshaft without running the risk of chipping a tooth.

 

Tried that Mike on the old tranny/t-case - bad idea. Tore up my screwdriver and chunked out a tooth on the gear it was pryed inbetween.

I ended up engaging the t-case, high 4, screwing back in the u-bolts and putting a breaker bar there so that it was running perpendicular to the nonexistant driveshaft. I had the breaker bar pushing onto the tranny while I yanked on that back nut. Stood on the tranny/t-case and that nut came off no problem.

My question is now, what torque does that nut go back on? Anybody know this?

 

The manual says "Install the washer and nut, and torque the castellated nut to 150 lb-ft minimum. Install the cotter pin. (if pin slots do not align, tighten the nut sligtly to line up the first slots available.)"

That was word for word.

 

Hmmm... no cotter pin. I better take a look at that. Thanks for the info Mike. Where did you get that number by the way?

 

I've never had one with a cotter pin and castelated nut. Always had Nylock type nuts. Personally I just crank them down with the impact wrench tight.

 

Who said no cotter pin? Not me. I got my information from the Jeep CJ rebuilder's manual 1946-1971...best book on the market...or that I've found.

 

I did the needle bearings in the soup trick as well, once. The best method is to remove the top of the T90 (if that is what you are working on) then manually slide it into reverse. THEN! slide the front shift into 3rd (direct). Now you can get after the nut with your longest breaker bar. It really gets interesting if you are removing a overdrive.......
-Hill

 

That must have been a bad day.

 

Thanks Billy but I got that sucker off. Missed you at the barbeque last night.
2 slabs of pork short ribs
dozen different sausages
dozen burgers
beef ribs
hot dogs
couple of rib-eyes
some crazy salad (for the weak)
a side of salmon
vegetable kabobs (also for the weak)

and I still have a cooler of beer in the garage.

And you know what I spent? $10 on charcoal. It's good to hang with people that like to eat.