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Front Spring Replacement

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by healey, Dec 22, 2010.

  1. Dec 22, 2010
    healey

    healey New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2007
    Messages:
    19
    Got some new front springs from Kaiser Willys along with new shackle assemblies and bushings for my 1966 CJ5. I haven't replaced springs before, so I've got some questions:

    1) Is there a left/right front/back to the springs? The "coil" at the eye of the spring protrudes futher on one side than the other - should this face in or out (see photo)?

    2) The bushings I ordered are the correct ones for the springs, but don't quite fit by hand. I assume that I will need to tap/pound these in, yes?

    3) My service manual says to "place the rear spring eye in the shackle and install the shackle in the hanger with the nuts finger tight." It then goes on to installing the U bolts and tie plate, installing wheels, lowering vehicle, then tightening spring front and rear mounting bolts. But, it doesn't specify earlier to install the front shackles! I assume that these are installed loose like the rear spring eye and tightened once the vehicle is lowered?

    4) What is the specified torque for the U bolt nuts and front/rear mounting bolts?

    5) Anything else I need to know?

    [​IMG]
    2010_12220004 by Healey1, on Flickr

    [​IMG]
    2010_12220003 by Healey1, on Flickr
     
  2. Dec 23, 2010
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,472
    There is a front and rear - check the tech section and it will give you the measurements I believe. As to a right and left - it depends on the wraps. Thins will also depend on the shackles your using.
     
  3. Dec 23, 2010
    healey

    healey New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2007
    Messages:
    19
    Thanks for the reply. I looked through tech section and couldn't find the info. The springs I got from Kaisar Willys are 19.5" from center to back and front, essentially symetrical. I tried reversing them and found no difference. I ended up taking them to my mechanic - he agreed no difference front or back.

    I found a video on youtube that notes torque at 80 lbs for spring plate bolts. Found an older post here regarding how to remove the old bushings from the frame - burn and sawsall -that worked fine.

    So far I've got the left side done and am working ont the right. Will be interesting to see the difference once I get the wheels back on and off the jack stands.

    Happy holidays:)
     
  4. Dec 23, 2010
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    8,360
    There is no front or back on the front springs.
     
  5. Dec 24, 2010
    jeepcj

    jeepcj Member

    cincy, Ohio
    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2009
    Messages:
    601
    For the bushings, I used a old long socket extension, put it about half way in the frame spring eye and pounded the opposing sides bushing out I also used a large flathead swrewdriver to pry with. same thing on the spring eyes themselves. YES, you will prob. have to pound the new ones in as well. lube them first. I jacked up the axle high enough that I could bolt the spring up to the rear shackle and to the front spring eye on the frame loosly, then just lowered the axle down to put the ubolts on. took me a day to do the rear and a day to do the front, by myself. good luck! and u may me slightly disapointed with your lift at first. Your springs will settle in and become softer once they get alittle broke in. so dont freak out if the ride is a little stiff at first. dont tighten you shackles too tight or your suspension won't be able to flex at all and your ride will never inprove. I have found that the torque spec's on the shackles are something you have to determon for your self. I have tighted to spec in the past and the springs wouldnt move if they had too. so play with that alittle but dont go so loose that the bolt will back off.
     
  6. Dec 24, 2010
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,472
    uh - ya - what he said :D for some reason I was thinking front and rear springs, not the center pin for the front...
     
  7. Dec 26, 2010
    healey

    healey New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2007
    Messages:
    19
    Got 'er done. I've attached before/after photos. The new springs gave me about 2 inches of lift. The old springs were nearly flat and caused the front drive shaft to rub on the bellhousing.

    Before:
    [​IMG]
    2010_12150023 by Healey1, on Flickr


    After:
    [​IMG]
    2010_12260001 by Healey1, on Flickr

    Spring Comparison:[​IMG]
    2010_12240001 by Healey1, on Flickr
     
  8. Dec 27, 2010
    CJ5-GCR

    CJ5-GCR New Member

    Culver City, CA
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2010
    Messages:
    46
    Neat Jeep.
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  9. Dec 28, 2010
    dave74

    dave74 Sponsor

    San Angelo, Tx
    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2006
    Messages:
    167
    Make sure to re-torque your U-bolts after few days of use. The springs will settle in and the U-bolts will loosen up some. Looks good.
     
  10. Dec 28, 2010
    healey

    healey New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2007
    Messages:
    19
    Thanks Dave, I will check the U bolts! Also, I wasn't sure what torque to apply to the shackle bolts. I went with 20 for starters, but will check these, too to make sure they're not too loose.

    It sure does look alot better. Rides nice too. With the new spings it looks a little nose up, but not bad. Maybe I'll replace the rear springs this summer - they are worn, but not as bad as the front ones were.

    So, if I went with 10s in the front, what should I go with in the rear? I don't see 10 leaf rear springs in the Kaiser Willys parts list, but do see 9s.
     
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