Body putty pin holes

Not sure if this is a "fabricators" type question or not...I guess I'll find out if it's moved there.

So I've been used Rage Gold to fill in some dimples and waves in the body. I've never done this before, but I like this stuff. It goes on smooth and sands easy. However, I still find pinholes every now and again....so my question is, is this where "glazing" comes in? If so, what is a good compatible brand to use?

If this isn't where glazing comes in...tell me what I need to do...please.

 

I used Icing 2 part glazing putty over evercoat rage. That is what I was told to use. It worked good. Don't use the 1 part glaze, it does not have a hardener and is not as good.

 

Icing is the brand then?

I assume this is the last thing to do once I feel all the putty is finished.

 

I've used 3M glazing putty in tubes for years. it spreads like soft butter. 05964 is one number

 

Icing is the name. I think it is made by evercoat. If you have time go to Autobody101.com and you can read about this stuff for hours.

 

I've used the putty from a tube too, many years ago, but it's considered old fashioned now. The one-part spot putty in a tube is a lacquer putty, and supposedly it absorbs solvents from the top coat. The solvents evaporate, and the putty shrinks, revealing its outline. The two-part polyester putties such as Icing are recommended today.

Another way to go is with a high-build filler-primer. I believe the usual order is straighten all your body work with filler, then spray a high-build primer and block sand. Apply more as needed and block sand to get to the final surface. Then seal and top coat.

 

Another way to go is with a high-build filler-primer. I believe the usual order is straighten all your body work with filler, then spray a high-build primer and block sand. Apply more as needed and block sand to get to the final surface. Then seal and top coat.[/QUOTE]


As Tim mentioned is how I did mine, it works well.

 

Alright...thanks for the advice. I'm sure the auto body supply shop will have Icing...I'll go that route.

The thing about the primer is that I wanted to go with a epoxy primer and I don't think those are high build.

 

You can shoot epoxy primer before you do your body work. Some epoxy primers are ok under some bondos - check the manufacturer's recs. Or you can shoot epoxy primer as a sealer before the top coat. There are some high-build primers that etch, so you can spray, sand down till you hit metal, spray some more, and continue. You need something like etch or epoxy primer on bare metal; except for that, you can do what works best for you, within the recs for each product. There are many ways to skin a cat.

 

use a quality 2k primer and a long block to finish. a light coat of contrasting spray bomb over the primer before sanding will show any imperfections. the longer the block the smoooother itll be

 

The steps I'm following now...
The body was sandblasted a few years ago...epoxy primer was applied after that to keep off surface rust.
1) I sanded off Epoxy where body filler is needed so I'm applying filler to metal
2) Use Icing to fill pin-holes
3) Apply 2K primer
4) Body seam sealer applied.
5) Epoxy as sealer
6) Paint

...and of course lots of sanding, especially in the first few steps.

I'm using the Southern Polyurethanes Epoxy...and I'll probably use their 2K as well.

 

Protect your lungs, 2K products will lock you up bad! Sounds like you have a good plan.

 

10-4.

I have some respirators that are supposedly okay to to use, provided the cartridges are changed often. It is not a forced air respirator.

Scares the pants off me though...I know those chemicals are pretty bad.

I may have to wait for the prime/paint until spring now though. I didn't really want to build a paint booth in my garage and the temps are dropping rapidly here in Georgia. We'll see what happens.

Thanks for all the advice.

 

you will like the spi products all top shelf use a good respirator and get a big fan for the shop move that air away...keep the respirator filters in a zip lock bag and they'll last a little longer.